brakes
Brake Rotor - Rear Single
for 2017 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
13
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace a single rear brake rotor on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8 engine, including caliper removal and proper torque specifications.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL BRAKE SYSTEM: Errors in this procedure can result in complete brake failure, causing serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight and place on solid, level ground.
⚠️Never allow the brake caliper to hang by the brake hose. This can cause internal hose damage leading to brake failure.
⚠New rotors have a protective coating that must be cleaned with brake cleaner before installation to prevent brake contamination.
⚠Compressing the brake caliper piston will push fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. Monitor fluid level to prevent overflow.
ℹ️This procedure assumes brake pads are NOT being replaced. If pads are worn, both rotors and pads should be replaced as axle pairs.
Tools required
Lug wrench or 21mm socketEssential
Torque wrench (20-350 Nm range)Essential
17mm socket for caliper slide pinsEssential
T30 Torx bit for rotor set screwsEssential
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Parts
- Rear brake rotor × 1 — Use OEM Ford specification or quality aftermarket (minimum 30mm thickness)
- Rotor set screw (if corroded) × 1 — M6 x 1.0 x 10mm Torx T30
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while wheel is still on the ground
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at proper jacking point (rear axle tube)
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed under frame rails
- Remove rear wheel completely and set aside
- Check brake fluid reservoir level in engine bay - do not exceed MAX line during caliper compression
Procedure
- 1Remove caliper slide pinsLocate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the rear of the caliper assembly (17mm heads). Remove both slide pin bolts completely while supporting the caliper with your other hand. These are the smaller bolts that allow the caliper to slide, not the larger bracket bolts.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 2Support and remove caliperCarefully lift the caliper assembly straight up and off the rotor. Do NOT let it hang by the brake hose. Use wire, a bungee cord, or a coat hanger to securely suspend the caliper from the suspension or frame. Ensure there is no tension or stress on the rubber brake hose.⚠️Allowing the caliper to hang freely can damage the brake hose internally, potentially causing brake failure even if no external damage is visible.
- 3Remove caliper bracketLocate the two large caliper bracket bolts (18mm heads) that secure the bracket to the axle flange. These are behind where the caliper was mounted. Remove both bracket bolts completely and remove the entire caliper bracket assembly. Keep track of any shims or anti-rattle clips.Torque specBracket Bolts127 Nm (94 lb-ft)
- 4Remove rotor set screwLocate the T30 Torx set screw in the face of the rotor (may be covered in rust or debris). Clean around the screw and remove it using a T30 Torx bit. If seized, apply penetrating oil and allow to soak, or carefully drill out if necessary. This screw is only for assembly retention and can be discarded if damaged.⚠Set screws are frequently corroded and may strip. Use a properly fitting T30 bit and apply firm downward pressure while turning to avoid stripping.Torque specRotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 5Remove old rotorPull the rotor straight off the wheel hub. If rotor is stuck due to corrosion, strike the rotor face with a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet between the wheel studs (never strike the studs directly). If severely stuck, thread two lug nuts on partially and use them as strike points, or apply penetrating oil at the hub interface and allow to soak.⚠Do not strike wheel studs or axle components. Only strike the rotor itself in areas that will not interfere with the hub surface.
- 6Clean hub mounting surfaceThoroughly clean the wheel hub face where the rotor mounts using a wire brush or abrasive pad. Remove all rust, corrosion, and debris to ensure the new rotor seats completely flat. Clean the wheel studs and threads. Inspect the hub for any damage or excessive wear.ℹ️Any debris or corrosion between the hub and rotor will cause rotor runout, leading to brake pulsation and uneven pad wear.
- 7Prepare and install new rotorRemove the new rotor from packaging. Spray both sides thoroughly with brake cleaner to remove the protective oil coating. Wipe dry with a clean, lint-free cloth. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the hub face (not the rotor contact surface). Slide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the set screw hole.⚠Failure to remove the protective coating from new rotors will contaminate brake pads and severely reduce braking performance.
- 8Install rotor set screwThread the rotor set screw (new or reused if in good condition) into the rotor face hole. Tighten to the specified torque of 8 Nm (6 lb-ft). This screw only needs to hold the rotor in place during assembly; the wheel clamps the rotor when installed.Torque specRotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 9Compress caliper pistonBefore reinstalling the caliper bracket, compress the caliper piston back into its bore using a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool. Place the clamp on the back of the caliper housing and against the outer brake pad. Slowly compress until the piston is fully retracted. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir and remove fluid if it approaches the MAX line.⚠Compressing the piston forces brake fluid back into the reservoir. If reservoir overflows, brake fluid will damage paint and components.
- 10Reinstall caliper bracketPosition the caliper bracket over the new rotor and align the mounting holes with the axle flange. Install both caliper bracket bolts and hand-tighten. Torque both bolts to 127 Nm (94 lb-ft) in a cross pattern. Reinstall any anti-rattle clips or shims that were removed.⚠️Improperly torqued bracket bolts can allow the caliper to detach during braking, causing immediate and complete brake failure.Torque specBracket Bolts127 Nm (94 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall caliper assemblyRemove the caliper from its support wire. Apply a thin coat of silicone brake grease to the slide pin shafts (the smooth part that slides in the bracket). Position the caliper over the rotor and bracket, ensuring brake pads align properly on both sides of the rotor. Install both slide pin bolts hand-tight, then torque to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).⚠Ensure brake pads are properly seated in the bracket and caliper before tightening slide pins. Misaligned pads can bind or cause uneven braking.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- 12Reinstall wheelMount the wheel onto the hub, aligning all lug nut holes. Install all lug nuts hand-tight in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle until the tire just touches the ground (still supported by jack stands). Torque lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) in a star pattern. Remove jack stands and lower vehicle completely.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Pump brake pedal firmly several times until pedal feel becomes firm - this seats the caliper piston against the new rotor
- Check brake fluid level in reservoir and top off with Motorcraft DOT 4 LV brake fluid if needed (do not overfill)
- Inspect the work area for any tools or parts left behind
- Clean any brake fluid spills immediately with water to prevent paint damage
Verification
- Verify brake pedal is firm and does not sink to the floor when constant pressure is applied
- Start engine and verify brake pedal remains firm with engine running (power assist active)
- Test brakes at low speed (under 10 mph) in a safe area to confirm proper operation before normal driving
- Listen for any unusual noises during initial brake applications - slight squealing may occur during rotor bedding process
- After first 50-100 miles, re-torque wheel lug nuts to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft) and verify no brake fluid leaks
- Perform proper brake bedding procedure: 5-10 gentle stops from 30 mph with 30 seconds between stops to properly transfer pad material to rotor surface
- Verify no brake warning lights are illuminated on instrument cluster
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P1703Brake Switch Out of Self-Test RangeP3604Start-Stop Brake Vacuum Pump PerformanceB0422Brake Warning Lamp CircuitC0085Brake Pressure Sensor CircuitC0088Brake Fluid Level Sensor CircuitC0090Brake Booster Pressure Sensor CircuitC0091Brake Booster PerformanceC0100Brake Pedal Position Sensor CircuitC0101Brake Pedal Position Sensor Range/PerformanceC0110Brake Apply CircuitC0111Brake Apply Circuit LowC0120Electronic Parking Brake Motor Circuit
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →