engine
Piston Rings - All
for 2017 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · RWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
26.0 h
Tools
18
Steps
15
Complete replacement of all piston rings on a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 5.0L Coyote V8 engine, requiring engine disassembly, removal of pistons, ring installation, and reassembly with proper honing and measurement.
Warnings
⚠️This procedure requires complete engine removal. Ensure vehicle is properly supported on jack stands and engine hoist is rated for at least 600 lbs
⚠️Connecting rod bolts, cylinder head bolts, and main bearing cap bolts are torque-to-yield (TTY) and MUST be replaced. Reusing TTY bolts can result in catastrophic engine failure
⚠Cylinders must be measured and inspected for taper and out-of-round before installing new rings. Excessive wear requires cylinder boring and oversized pistons
⚠Piston ring end gaps must be checked and verified to specification before installation. Incorrect gaps can cause ring breakage or excessive oil consumption
ℹ️Keep all connecting rods and caps matched and marked for cylinder position. Installing rods in wrong cylinders will cause bearing failure
ℹ️This procedure assumes cylinders are within wear specifications and only require deglazing. If cylinders are tapered more than 0.003 inches, machine work is required
Tools required
Engine hoist with load levelerEssential
Engine standEssential
Piston ring compressor toolEssential
Piston ring expander toolEssential
Cylinder ridge reamerEssential
Cylinder bore gauge or dial bore indicatorEssential
Feeler gauge set (0.001-0.030 inch)Essential
Piston ring groove cleanerEssential
Torque wrench (10-100 lb-ft range)Essential
Torque angle gaugeEssential
Plastic gasket scraper set
Socket set (metric)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Harmonic balancer pullerEssential
Dial indicator with magnetic base
Micrometer setEssential
Engine oil priming toolEssential
Compression tester
Parts
- Complete piston ring set for all 8 cylinders × 1 — Ford M-6149-M50 or equivalent Mahle/Sealed Power
- Cylinder head gasket set × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Oil pan gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Valve cover gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Timing chain cover gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Connecting rod bolts × 16 — Use OEM specification
- Cylinder head bolts × 20 — Use OEM specification
- Main bearing cap bolts × 10 — Use OEM specification
- Oil filter × 1 — Motorcraft FL-500S
- Oil drain plug crush washer × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Intake manifold gaskets × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust manifold gaskets × 2 — Use OEM specification
- RTV silicone gasket maker × 2 — Motorcraft TA-30 or equivalent
- Assembly lube × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Engine degreaser × 1 — Use OEM specification
Fluids
- Motorcraft 0W-20 Full Synthetic engine oil — 7.5 qt
- Motorcraft Orange Coolant — 16 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
- Disconnect negative battery cable and secure away from battery post
- Drain engine oil completely and remove oil filter
- Drain coolant from radiator and engine block drain plugs into suitable container
- Remove engine cover and disconnect all air intake components from throttle body to air filter box
- Remove radiator, cooling fans, and all coolant hoses attached to engine
- Disconnect all electrical connectors from engine including alternator, starter, sensors, and fuel injectors - label or photograph for reference
- Disconnect fuel lines at fuel rail using proper fuel line disconnect tools
- Remove serpentine belt and all belt-driven accessories (alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor)
- Disconnect exhaust system at manifold flanges
- Remove transmission bellhousing bolts and separate transmission from engine (4WD models require transfer case removal first)
- Attach engine hoist to factory lifting points on cylinder heads
- Support transmission with jack and remove engine mount bolts
- Carefully lift engine from vehicle and mount securely on engine stand
Procedure
- 1Remove external engine componentsWith engine on stand, remove valve covers, intake manifold assembly, exhaust manifolds, spark plugs, ignition coils, fuel rails with injectors, and accessory brackets. Remove harmonic balancer using appropriate puller tool. Remove timing chain cover, timing chains, and camshafts following factory timing alignment procedures. Label and store all components for reinstallation.
- 2Remove cylinder headsRemove cylinder head bolts in reverse of tightening sequence (consult factory service manual for sequence pattern). Lift cylinder heads off engine block and place on clean work surface. Inspect head gasket surfaces for damage or warping. Stuff clean rags into cylinder bores to prevent debris entry.
- 3Remove oil pan and oil pumpRemove oil pan bolts in reverse sequence and lower oil pan from engine. Remove oil pump pickup tube and oil pump assembly. This provides access to connecting rod bolts from below. Clean oil pan thoroughly and inspect for cracks or damage.
- 4Check cylinder ridge and measure boresRemove rags from cylinders. Use ridge reamer to carefully remove any ridge at top of each cylinder bore - this prevents piston ring damage during removal. Using cylinder bore gauge or dial bore indicator, measure each cylinder bore at top, middle, and bottom in two directions (parallel and perpendicular to crankshaft). Record all measurements. Maximum taper should not exceed 0.003 inches and out-of-round should not exceed 0.002 inches. If exceeding these limits, cylinders require machining.
- 5Remove pistons and connecting rodsRotate crankshaft to position each connecting rod at bottom dead center. Mark each connecting rod and cap with cylinder number using permanent marker or stamping tool (factory marks may be present - verify and enhance). Remove connecting rod cap bolts and caps, keeping each cap matched with its rod. Push piston and rod assembly up and out through top of cylinder bore. Install rod cap back onto rod immediately to prevent mixing. Place piston assemblies on clean work surface in order.
- 6Remove old piston ringsUsing piston ring expander tool, carefully expand and remove each ring from piston starting with top compression ring, then second compression ring, then oil control ring assembly. Be careful not to scratch piston ring lands. Inspect pistons for cracks, scoring, or damage. Clean ring grooves thoroughly using piston ring groove cleaner tool, removing all carbon deposits.
- 7Deglaze cylinder wallsUsing 220-grit flex hone or rigid cylinder hone, deglaze each cylinder bore with 30-45 degree crosshatch pattern. Use plenty of honing oil during process. Clean cylinders thoroughly with hot soapy water and brush, then wipe with clean white cloth soaked in light oil. Cloth should come away clean with no gray residue. This surface finish is critical for proper ring seating.
- 8Check piston ring end gapsFor each cylinder, insert top compression ring into cylinder bore and square it using inverted piston. Position ring about 1 inch below deck surface. Use feeler gauge to measure ring end gap. Factory specification is typically 0.009-0.019 inches for top ring, 0.017-0.025 inches for second ring. Check all rings for all cylinders. If gaps are too tight, carefully file ring ends. Record all measurements.
- 9Install new piston ringsVerify each piston's ring grooves are completely clean. Using ring expander tool, install oil control ring assembly first (expander, then lower rail, then upper rail, following manufacturer orientation markings). Install second compression ring with identification mark facing up. Install top compression ring with identification mark facing up. Ensure rings rotate freely in grooves and check side clearance with feeler gauge (typically 0.0012-0.0031 inches). Stagger ring end gaps 120 degrees apart.
- 10Prepare connecting rods and crankshaftClean all connecting rod bearing surfaces and crankshaft journals with clean solvent and lint-free cloth. Inspect crankshaft journals for scoring or damage. Measure journal diameters with micrometer to verify within specification. Apply assembly lube generously to crankshaft journals, piston skirts, piston pins, and cylinder walls.
- 11Install pistons into cylindersInstall appropriate size piston ring compressor around each piston, compressing all rings fully. Apply engine oil to cylinder wall. Orient piston so any directional markings face forward (timing chain end). Carefully guide connecting rod into cylinder bore and position ring compressor firmly against engine block deck. Using wooden hammer handle, gently tap piston crown while guiding rod onto crankshaft journal. Ensure rod does not strike crankshaft during installation. Repeat for all eight pistons in correct cylinder positions.
- 12Install connecting rod caps and torqueInstall NEW connecting rod cap bolts (TTY bolts must be replaced). Apply light coat of engine oil to bolt threads and underside of bolt heads. Install each rod cap in correct orientation matching cylinder number and factory alignment marks. Hand-tighten bolts, then torque to 45 Nm (33 lb-ft) using torque wrench. Then tighten an additional 90 degrees using angle gauge. Verify crankshaft rotates freely after each rod is torqued. If binding occurs, investigate immediately.⚠️Connecting rod bolts are TTY and must be replaced with new bolts. Using old bolts will result in engine failureTorque specConnecting Rod Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
- 13Install oil pump and oil panInstall oil pump assembly and torque bolts per factory specification. Install oil pump pickup tube with new O-ring and torque to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Clean oil pan and block mating surfaces thoroughly. Apply thin bead of RTV silicone at block corners and install new oil pan gasket. Install oil pan and torque bolts in factory sequence to 12 Nm (9 lb-ft). Allow RTV to cure per manufacturer instructions before adding oil.Torque specOil Pump Pickup Tube12 Nm (9 lb-ft)Oil Pan Bolts12 Nm (9 lb-ft)
- 14Install cylinder headsClean cylinder head and block mating surfaces with plastic scraper - ensure surfaces are completely free of old gasket material and oil. Install new head gaskets with markings facing up. Carefully position cylinder heads onto block, aligning dowel pins. Install NEW cylinder head bolts (TTY bolts must be replaced). Apply light oil to bolt threads. Following factory torque sequence diagram, torque head bolts to 65 Nm (48 lb-ft), then tighten additional 90 degrees, then final 90 degrees (total 180 degrees after initial torque).⚠️Cylinder head bolts are TTY and must be replaced. Follow exact torque sequence from factory service manualTorque specCylinder Head Bolts65 Nm (48 lb-ft)
- 15Reinstall timing components and accessoriesReinstall camshafts in correct positions with timing marks aligned per factory procedure. Install timing chains with alignment marks properly positioned. Install timing chain cover with new gasket, torquing bolts in sequence. Install harmonic balancer. Reinstall all external components including exhaust manifolds, intake manifold, valve covers, fuel rails, ignition coils, and spark plugs. Torque all fasteners to specification.
Reassembly
- Install new oil filter and install oil drain plug with new crush washer, torquing to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
- Remove engine from stand and reinstall into vehicle using engine hoist, reversing removal procedure
- Reconnect all electrical connectors, fuel lines, coolant hoses, and exhaust system
- Reinstall radiator, cooling fans, and all cooling system components
- Reinstall serpentine belt and verify proper routing
- Refill engine with 7.5 quarts Motorcraft 0W-20 full synthetic oil
- Refill cooling system with 16 quarts Motorcraft Orange coolant and bleed air from system
- Reconnect negative battery cable
Verification
- Prime oil system using oil pump priming tool through oil filter mount before starting engine
- Perform initial start with careful monitoring - engine should start immediately and run smoothly without unusual noises
- Check for oil leaks around oil pan, timing cover, and valve covers during first few minutes of operation
- Allow engine to reach operating temperature while monitoring coolant level and checking for leaks
- Verify oil pressure reads normal on instrument cluster (should be 25+ PSI at idle when warm)
- After initial warm-up and cool-down, retorque cylinder head bolts if specified by manufacturer (some applications require this)
- Change oil and filter after first 500 miles of break-in operation
- Perform compression test after break-in period - all cylinders should read within 10% of each other and meet factory specification (typically 150-200 PSI)
- Monitor oil consumption during first 1000 miles - rings should seat and consumption should stabilize
- Avoid extended idle periods and high engine loads during first 500 miles to allow proper ring seating