drivetrain
Wheel Studs
for 2020 Ford F-150 5.0L V8 Coyote · RWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
8
Steps
8
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of wheel studs on the rear axle of a 2015-2020 Ford F-150 with 5.0L V8 Coyote engine.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands.
⚠Ensure parking brake is released before attempting to rotate the hub or brake rotor.
⚠Damaged wheel studs can compromise wheel retention and lead to catastrophic wheel separation while driving.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (calibrated)Essential
21mm socket for lug nutsEssential
Ball peen hammer or brass hammerEssential
Breaker barEssential
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Parts
- Wheel stud(s) × 1 — Ford M-1107-A or OEM equivalent
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
- Loosen lug nuts on the wheel with the damaged stud(s) while vehicle is on the ground
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking points
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight
- Remove wheel completely and set aside
Procedure
- 1Access the damaged wheel studInspect the hub and identify the damaged or broken wheel stud. Rotate the brake rotor/hub assembly as needed to position the damaged stud for easiest access. On some positions, you may need to rotate the hub to clear brake caliper or suspension components.
- 2Remove the damaged wheel studUse a ball peen hammer or brass hammer to drive the damaged stud out from the front (wheel side) of the hub. Strike the stud firmly at the threaded end to force it through the hub bore. The stud should push out toward the brake side of the hub. If the stud is severely damaged or corroded, you may need to use a chisel to break it free.⚠Avoid striking the hub face or brake rotor. Use controlled hammer strikes on the stud only.
- 3Clean the hub boreOnce the old stud is removed, use a wire brush to clean the stud bore in the hub. Remove any rust, corrosion, or debris from the hole to ensure the new stud seats properly. Inspect the bore for damage or cracks.
- 4Install the new wheel studInsert the new wheel stud into the hub bore from the back side (brake side). The stud should slide through with the serrated shoulder facing outward. Push the stud in by hand as far as it will go. Apply a small amount of anti-seize to the serrated shoulder if desired, but keep it away from the wheel mounting face.
- 5Seat the wheel studUse a wheel stud installer tool or create a makeshift installer using a stack of washers and a deep socket that clears the stud threads. Thread a lug nut onto the stud backward (flat side out), place washers and socket over the stud, then tighten the lug nut. This will pull the stud through the hub until the serrated shoulder seats firmly against the back of the hub. You should feel solid resistance when fully seated.⚠Do not over-tighten during installation. Stop when the stud shoulder is fully seated to avoid damaging the hub or stripping the stud.
- 6Verify stud installationRemove the installation tool, washers, and lug nut. Inspect the stud to confirm it is fully seated with the serrated shoulder flush against the hub. The stud should not move or rotate when pulled by hand. Verify that sufficient thread length extends beyond the hub for proper lug nut engagement.
- 7Reinstall the wheelClean the hub mounting surface and wheel mounting surface with a wire brush. Position the wheel onto the hub, aligning all lug holes. Thread all lug nuts onto studs by hand, including the newly installed stud. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to ensure even seating.ℹ️Hand-tighten all lug nuts before using any tools to ensure wheel is properly centered on hub.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
- 8Lower vehicle and perform final torqueCarefully remove jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground. With the vehicle weight on the wheel, torque all lug nuts to specification using a star pattern. Start at 50% of final torque, then go to 100% in a second pass to ensure even clamping force.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure all lug nuts are torqued to specification in a proper star pattern
- Verify wheel is secure with no wobble or looseness
- Store damaged stud as a reference if ordering additional replacements
Verification
- Test drive vehicle at low speed and verify no vibration or unusual noises from the wheel
- Re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving to confirm proper retention
- Visually inspect the new stud after test drive to ensure it remains properly seated
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
B0290Heated Steering Wheel CircuitC0021LF Wheel Speed Sensor Range/PerformanceC0022RF Wheel Speed Sensor Range/PerformanceC0035Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0036Left Front Wheel Speed Signal ErraticC0040Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0041Right Front Wheel Speed Signal ErraticC0050Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0051Right Rear Wheel Speed Signal ErraticU0229Lost Communication With Heated Steering Wheel ModuleU0314Software Incompatibility With Four Wheel Drive Control ModuleU0414Invalid Data Received From Four Wheel Drive Control Module
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →