suspension
Lower Control Arm - Rear
for 2021 Honda Accord 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
13
Steps
13
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear lower control arm on a 2018-2024 Honda Accord 1.5L Turbo, including disconnection of the ball joint and control arm mounting bolts.
Warnings
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠The control arm is under tension from the suspension. Support the knuckle before removing fasteners to prevent sudden movement.
⚠Final torque on control arm bolts must be performed with vehicle weight on the wheels to avoid premature bushing failure.
ℹ️Some control arm bushings are pre-positioned for installation at a specific ride height. Follow manufacturer orientation markings if present.
Tools required
Floor jackEssential
Jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm socket (lug nuts)Essential
17mm socket (ball joint nut)Essential
19mm wrench and socket (control arm bolts)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Torque wrench (20-180 Nm range)Essential
Ball joint separator/pickle forkEssential
Pry bar
Wire brush
Penetrating oil
Rubber mallet
Parts
- Rear lower control arm × 1 — Use OEM Honda part number for your specific model year
- Ball joint castle nut × 1 — Replace if damaged or cotter pin cannot be reused
- Cotter pin × 1 — Single-use item, always replace
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking points
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands placed at frame rail points
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Spray penetrating oil on ball joint nut and control arm bolts if corrosion is present, allow 10-15 minutes to penetrate
Procedure
- 1Support the rear knuckle assemblyPosition a floor jack with a block of wood under the rear knuckle/spindle assembly to support it. Raise jack just enough to take up slack and support the weight of the knuckle and suspension components. This prevents the assembly from dropping when the control arm is disconnected.
- 2Remove ball joint cotter pin and castle nutLocate the ball joint where the lower control arm connects to the rear knuckle. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the castle nut. Using a 17mm socket, remove the ball joint castle nut completely. Keep the nut if it is in good condition or replace with new.
- 3Separate ball joint from knuckleUsing a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork, carefully separate the ball joint stud from the knuckle. Insert the tool between the control arm and knuckle, then strike or tighten to force separation. Avoid damaging the ball joint boot if reusing the control arm. The joint should pop free with moderate force.⚠The knuckle may shift suddenly when the ball joint separates. Ensure the floor jack is supporting the assembly.
- 4Remove front control arm mounting boltLocate the front mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the subframe/chassis. This bolt passes through the front bushing of the control arm. Using a 19mm socket and wrench, remove the bolt completely. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers for reassembly.
- 5Remove rear control arm mounting boltLocate the rear mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the subframe/chassis at the rear bushing. Using a 19mm socket and wrench, remove this bolt completely. The control arm should now be free to remove from the vehicle.
- 6Remove control arm from vehicleCarefully maneuver the control arm away from the mounting points and ball joint. You may need to rotate or angle the arm to clear surrounding components. Inspect the removed arm for damage, worn bushings, or torn boots.
- 7Clean mounting surfacesUse a wire brush to clean the mounting bolt holes in the subframe and the ball joint taper in the knuckle. Remove any rust, debris, or old thread locker. Inspect threads in the knuckle for damage.
- 8Install new control arm to subframePosition the new control arm to align with both front and rear mounting points on the subframe. Insert both mounting bolts finger-tight only. Do NOT torque these bolts yet - they must be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels. Ensure any bushings are oriented correctly per manufacturer markings.
- 9Connect ball joint to knuckleAlign the ball joint stud with the hole in the rear knuckle. You may need to use the floor jack to raise or lower the knuckle slightly for alignment. Push the stud through the knuckle taper until fully seated. The taper should pull in snugly.
- 10Install and torque ball joint nutThread the castle nut onto the ball joint stud by hand, then tighten to specification using a torque wrench and 17mm socket. Ensure the nut rotates the stud into the taper. After torquing, align the next castle slot with the cotter pin hole. If needed, tighten further (never loosen) to align. Install a new cotter pin and bend ends to secure.Torque specBall Joint Nut84 Nm (62 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleMount the rear wheel onto the hub, threading lug nuts by hand to start. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a wrench but do not torque yet. Remove the floor jack from under the knuckle. Lower the vehicle from jack stands until the suspension is at normal ride height with full vehicle weight on the wheels, but keep the vehicle slightly raised for access.
- 12Torque control arm mounting bolts at ride heightWith the vehicle weight on the suspension (wheels touching ground or on ramps), torque both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification. This is critical - torquing these bolts with the suspension hanging will cause premature bushing failure. Use a 19mm socket and torque wrench.⚠CRITICAL: Control arm bolts must be torqued at normal ride height to prevent bushing damage. Do not torque with suspension hanging.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 13Final torque wheel lug nutsFully lower the vehicle to the ground. Using a torque wrench and 19mm socket, torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star/cross pattern to ensure even pressure and proper wheel seating.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts129 Nm (95 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Ensure the new cotter pin is properly installed and bent to prevent the castle nut from loosening
- Verify all fasteners have been torqued to specification at the correct ride height
- Remove wheel chocks and perform a visual inspection of the work area for any loose tools or parts
Verification
- Perform a visual inspection of all connections to ensure proper installation and torque
- Bounce the rear of the vehicle several times and verify no unusual noises or movement from the control arm area
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area, checking for proper handling and any unusual noises during turns and over bumps
- Schedule a professional alignment check, as replacing suspension components typically affects wheel alignment settings
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0001Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/OpenP0002Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Range/PerformanceP0030HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1P0031HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1P0045Turbo/Supercharger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit/OpenP0046Turbo/Supercharger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit Range/PerformanceP0050HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1P0051HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2 Sensor 1P0090Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control CircuitP0091Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit LowP0125Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel ControlP0216Injection Timing Control Circuit
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