brakes
Brake Hose - Rear
for 2017 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
48 min
Tools
10
Steps
12
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the rear brake hose on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic 1.5L Turbo, including bleeding the brake system to restore proper brake function.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY CRITICAL: Brake system failure can result in loss of braking ability, causing serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about ANY step in this procedure, have the vehicle serviced by a qualified professional.
⚠️Never reuse copper crush washers on banjo bolts. Always install new washers to prevent brake fluid leaks and brake system failure.
⚠️Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and harmful if ingested. Wear nitrile gloves and eye protection. Immediately flush any skin contact with water.
⚠️Do not drive the vehicle until the brake system has been properly bled and brake pedal firmness has been verified. Test brakes in a safe area before normal driving.
⚠Use only DOT 3 brake fluid. Do not mix different brake fluid types. Brake fluid absorbs moisture and degrades over time; use only fresh, sealed containers.
⚠Keep brake fluid away from brake components, painted surfaces, and plastics. Clean up spills immediately with water.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Torque wrench (10-130 Nm range)Essential
Flare nut wrench (10mm)Essential
Brake bleeding kit or clear tubingEssential
Drain pan for brake fluidEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
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Parts
- Rear brake hose × 1 — Use OEM Honda part number for your specific trim
- Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — 90441-PH1-000 or equivalent
- DOT 3 brake fluid × 1 — Honda DOT 3 or equivalent
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake firmly
- Place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Locate brake fluid reservoir under hood and verify fluid level is at MAX line
- Place protective covering over fender and painted surfaces near work area
Procedure
- 1Prepare brake fluid reservoirOpen the brake fluid reservoir cap under the hood. Use a turkey baster or fluid transfer pump to remove brake fluid until the reservoir is at the MIN line. This prevents overflow when compressing the caliper and disconnecting the hose. Dispose of old brake fluid properly—never reuse it.⚠Brake fluid will overflow from the reservoir if not removed before proceeding. This can damage paint and create a safety hazard.
- 2Remove brake hose banjo bolt at caliperLocate the banjo bolt where the brake hose connects to the rear brake caliper. Place a drain pan underneath to catch brake fluid. Using a flare nut wrench or box wrench, loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Brake fluid will drain out—this is normal. Note the position of the two copper crush washers (one on each side of the hose fitting). Discard the old copper washers; they must not be reused. Plug the caliper port with a clean shop towel or rubber cap to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.⚠️Brake fluid will spray out when the banjo bolt is loosened. Wear eye protection and gloves.Torque specBrake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
- 3Disconnect brake hose from mounting bracketLocate the brake hose mounting bracket on the suspension or chassis. The hose is secured with a clip or retaining bracket. Remove the retaining clip or bracket bolt (if equipped) to free the hose from the bracket. If the hose uses a spring clip, carefully pry it off with a flathead screwdriver. Note the orientation of the clip for reassembly.Torque specBrake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 4Disconnect brake hose from brake lineAt the upper end of the brake hose, locate where the flexible hose connects to the rigid brake line. This connection uses a threaded fitting. Use a flare nut wrench on the brake hose fitting to prevent rounding. Hold the brake line stationary with another wrench if needed. Unthread the hose from the brake line. Be prepared for additional brake fluid to drain. Cap or plug both the brake line and hose end to prevent contamination and excessive fluid loss.⚠Use a flare nut wrench on brake line fittings. Standard wrenches can round off the soft brass fittings, making removal extremely difficult.
- 5Remove old brake hoseOnce both ends are disconnected and the mounting bracket is released, remove the old brake hose from the vehicle. Inspect the hose for signs of damage, cracking, bulging, or chafing that necessitated replacement. Clean the brake line fitting threads with a wire brush and inspect for damage or corrosion.ℹ️This is a good time to inspect nearby brake components for wear, corrosion, or damage.
- 6Install new brake hose to brake lineBegin installation at the upper connection point. Thread the new brake hose onto the rigid brake line by hand to ensure proper alignment and prevent cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use a flare nut wrench to snug the fitting. Do not fully torque yet—you may need to adjust the hose orientation to prevent twisting when connecting the lower end.⚠Do not twist or kink the brake hose during installation. The hose must hang naturally without tension or twisting.
- 7Secure hose in mounting bracketRoute the brake hose through the mounting bracket on the suspension or chassis, ensuring it follows the same path as the original hose. Install the retaining clip or bracket bolt to secure the hose in position. Verify the hose has adequate clearance from suspension components, the tire, and any moving parts throughout the full range of suspension travel. Turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock if this is a front brake hose to verify clearance.Torque specBrake Hose Bracket10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 8Connect brake hose to caliper with new washersRemove the plug or towel from the caliper port. Install one NEW copper crush washer onto the banjo fitting of the brake hose. Insert the banjo bolt through the fitting and position the hose so it aligns naturally without twisting. Place the second NEW copper crush washer on the bolt inside the caliper port. Thread the banjo bolt into the caliper by hand first, then torque to specification using a torque wrench. Verify the hose is not twisted and hangs in a natural position.⚠️Failure to use NEW copper crush washers will result in brake fluid leaks and potential brake failure. Never reuse old washers.Torque specBrake Hose Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
- 9Finalize upper connection torqueNow that the lower end is secured and the hose orientation is correct, return to the upper brake line connection. Using a flare nut wrench, tighten the brake hose to brake line fitting firmly. These fittings typically tighten to specification by feel (snug but not overtightened). Do not overtorque or you may damage the brass fitting or crack the brake line.⚠Brake line fittings are typically NOT torqued with a torque wrench. Tighten firmly by hand feel to avoid damage.
- 10Bleed the rear brake circuitRefill the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Attach a clear bleeding tube to the brake bleeder screw on the rear caliper and submerge the other end in a container with a small amount of clean brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn while your assistant maintains pedal pressure. Fluid and air bubbles will flow through the tube. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the tube and only clean fluid flows. Check and refill the reservoir frequently to prevent introducing new air. Torque the bleeder screw to specification when finished.⚠️Never allow the brake fluid reservoir to run empty during bleeding. This will introduce air into the ABS system, requiring specialized equipment to bleed.⚠The brake pedal will go to the floor during bleeding. Ensure your assistant does not release pedal pressure until the bleeder screw is closed.Torque specBleeder Screw13 Nm (10 lb-ft)
- 11Check for leaks and verify connectionsWipe all connections clean with a lint-free cloth. With the bleeder screw closed, have an assistant apply firm, steady pressure to the brake pedal (do not pump). Inspect the banjo bolt connection at the caliper and the threaded connection at the brake line for any signs of fluid seepage. Check the hose itself for bulging or weeping. Any leak requires immediate correction—retorque fittings or verify new copper washers are installed correctly.⚠️Any brake fluid leak is a critical safety issue. Do not proceed if any leakage is observed. Identify and correct the leak source immediately.
- 12Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleClean the wheel hub surface and wheel mounting surface. Reinstall the rear wheel, threading lug nuts by hand first to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a torque wrench to specification. Lower the vehicle to the ground and perform a final torque check on all lug nuts in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts108 Nm (80 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify brake fluid reservoir is filled to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid
- Verify all brake line connections are tight and free of leaks
- Ensure brake hose has proper clearance from all moving parts and suspension components
- Properly dispose of old brake fluid according to local regulations—do not pour down drains
Verification
- With the engine off, pump the brake pedal several times. The pedal should become firm and hold pressure. A soft or spongy pedal indicates air in the system requiring additional bleeding
- Start the engine and apply firm brake pressure. Inspect all connections for leaks. No fluid seepage should be visible
- Verify the brake warning light on the instrument cluster is not illuminated
- Before driving, test the brakes at low speed in a safe area (empty parking lot). The vehicle should stop smoothly and in a straight line without pulling to one side
- During the first test drive, maintain low speeds and verify full brake function before returning to normal driving conditions
- Recheck all connections and brake fluid level after the first 50-100 miles of driving
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P3604Start-Stop Brake Vacuum Pump PerformanceB0422Brake Warning Lamp CircuitC0085Brake Pressure Sensor CircuitC0088Brake Fluid Level Sensor CircuitC0090Brake Booster Pressure Sensor CircuitC0091Brake Booster PerformanceC0100Brake Pedal Position Sensor CircuitC0101Brake Pedal Position Sensor Range/PerformanceC0110Brake Apply CircuitC0111Brake Apply Circuit LowC0120Electronic Parking Brake Motor CircuitC0121Electronic Parking Brake Motor Overcurrent
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →