brakes
Brake Pads - Rear
for 2017 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
54 min
Tools
11
Steps
11
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the replacement of rear brake pads on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic with the 1.5L turbo engine, including caliper service and proper torque specifications.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL: Brake system failure can result in death or serious injury. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠️Do NOT depress the brake pedal while the caliper is removed or pads are out, as this will eject the caliper pistons.
⚠Compressing the caliper piston forces brake fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir, which may cause overflow. Monitor reservoir level and remove fluid if necessary before compressing pistons.
⚠Brake dust may contain asbestos or other harmful materials. Do not use compressed air to clean brake components. Use brake cleaner in a well-ventilated area.
⚠Caliper slide pin bolts MUST be torqued to specification. Over-torquing can cause binding and uneven pad wear; under-torquing can allow the caliper to loosen and fail.
ℹ️This procedure requires torquing wheel lug nuts to specification. Final torque must be performed with wheels on the ground and vehicle weight supported.
Tools required
Lug wrench or 19mm socketEssential
Torque wrench (0-200 Nm range)Essential
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Parts
- Rear brake pad set (left and right) × 1 — Use OEM Honda specification or equivalent
- Brake hardware kit (anti-rattle clips, shims) × 1 — Often included with quality pad sets
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 0.25 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground. Apply parking brake and place transmission in Park (automatic) or 1st gear (manual).
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is still on the ground, but do not remove.
- Lift rear of vehicle with floor jack at designated rear jacking point and secure on jack stands at reinforced pinch welds or frame rails.
- Remove rear wheels completely and set aside.
- Verify brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir under hood. If near MAX line, remove some fluid with turkey baster or fluid pump to prevent overflow during piston compression.
- Inspect brake rotors for excessive wear, scoring, or warping. Measure rotor thickness if calipers are available. Replace rotors if below service limit.
Procedure
- 1Remove caliper slide pin boltsLocate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the rear of the caliper (typically 17mm). These bolts secure the caliper to the bracket and allow it to slide. Remove the lower slide pin bolt first, then remove the upper slide pin bolt. Keep these bolts clean and inspect the rubber boots for damage.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 2Pivot caliper upward and secureWith both slide pin bolts removed, carefully pivot the caliper upward and away from the brake pads and rotor. The brake hose remains connected—do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Secure the caliper to the suspension or strut using wire or a bungee cord to prevent stress on the brake line.⚠Never allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose, as this can damage the hose internally and cause brake failure.
- 3Remove old brake pads and hardwareRemove the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket. Note the orientation and position of any anti-rattle clips, shims, or springs attached to the pads. Remove the old pad shims and anti-rattle clips from the caliper bracket. Inspect the caliper bracket for wear or damage.ℹ️Take photos before disassembly to reference pad orientation and hardware positioning during reassembly.
- 4Clean caliper bracket and slidesUse a wire brush to clean the pad abutment areas on the caliper bracket where the pads slide. Clean the caliper slide pins (removed from the bracket if necessary) with brake cleaner. Inspect the slide pin rubber boots for tears or damage—replace if compromised. Ensure all old grease and debris are removed from sliding surfaces.⚠Do not use petroleum-based products on brake components. Use only brake cleaner and silicone brake grease.
- 5Compress caliper pistonUsing a C-clamp or brake caliper compression tool, slowly compress the caliper piston(s) fully into the caliper bore. Position the clamp on the back of the caliper body and against the inner piston surface. Compress gradually and evenly. This creates clearance for the new, thicker brake pads.⚠Watch the brake fluid reservoir as you compress the piston. If fluid overflows, stop and remove excess fluid before continuing.ℹ️Some rear calipers on certain Civic trim levels may have screw-in pistons requiring a special tool. Verify your caliper type—this procedure assumes standard compression-type pistons.
- 6Install new pad hardware and lubricateInstall new anti-rattle clips and shims onto the caliper bracket according to the orientation noted during removal or per the new pad kit instructions. Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to the caliper slide pins and to the pad abutment surfaces on the bracket (where pad ears contact the bracket). Do NOT get grease on the pad friction material or rotor surface.⚠Use only silicone-based brake grease. Do not use standard grease, which can deteriorate in high heat and cause caliper seizure.
- 7Install new brake padsInstall the new inner and outer brake pads into the caliper bracket, ensuring they are properly seated in the anti-rattle clips and hardware. Verify that any wear indicators (squealer tabs) are positioned correctly according to manufacturer specifications—typically on the inner pad facing toward the piston. Confirm pads move freely in the bracket.ℹ️Pad wear indicators must be positioned correctly or they will not function. Verify orientation matches OEM specifications.
- 8Reinstall caliper and slide pin boltsRemove the caliper from its suspended position and pivot it down over the new brake pads and rotor. Ensure the caliper piston aligns properly with the inner pad. Insert both caliper slide pin bolts and hand-tighten. Apply a small amount of silicone brake grease to the slide pin threads and rubber boots as specified. Torque both slide pin bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern.⚠️Caliper slide pin bolts are CRITICAL fasteners. Under-torquing can allow the caliper to loosen during operation, causing brake failure. Use a calibrated torque wrench.Torque specCaliper Slide Pin Bolts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 9Repeat procedure for opposite sideRepeat steps 1-8 for the opposite rear wheel to replace the brake pads on that side. It is essential to replace brake pads on both rear wheels simultaneously to maintain balanced braking performance.⚠Always replace brake pads in axle sets (both rear wheels). Replacing only one side causes brake imbalance and unsafe handling.
- 10Reinstall wheels and torque lug nutsReinstall both rear wheels, threading lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern with a wrench while vehicle is still on jack stands, but do not torque to final specification yet. Lower vehicle completely to the ground so full weight is on the wheels. Using a calibrated torque wrench, torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.⚠Wheel lug nuts must be torqued to specification with vehicle weight on the ground. Improper torque can cause wheel detachment.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
- 11Pump brake pedal and check fluid levelWith the vehicle in Park/Neutral and parking brake applied, pump the brake pedal slowly and firmly 10-15 times until it becomes firm and reaches normal height. This repositions the caliper pistons against the new pads. Check the brake fluid reservoir and top off to the MAX line with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed.⚠️Do NOT attempt to drive the vehicle until the brake pedal is firm and normal. A soft or spongy pedal indicates air in the system or improperly installed components.
Reassembly
- Verify all caliper slide pin bolts are torqued to specification (35 Nm / 26 lb-ft).
- Verify all wheel lug nuts are torqued to specification (140 Nm / 103 lb-ft) in a star pattern with vehicle on the ground.
- Confirm brake fluid reservoir is at proper level between MIN and MAX marks.
- Ensure no tools or parts were left in the wheel well or brake area.
Verification
- Before driving, pump the brake pedal until firm. The pedal should feel solid and reach normal height within 10-15 pumps.
- Test brakes at low speed (under 10 mph) in a safe area to verify proper operation before normal driving.
- Listen for any unusual noises during initial brake application—light squealing may occur during pad break-in, but grinding or severe noise indicates a problem.
- Perform a controlled stop from 30-40 mph in a safe location to verify proper braking force and vehicle stability.
- After 50-100 miles of break-in driving, re-torque wheel lug nuts to specification and verify caliper slide pin bolt torque.
- New brake pads require a break-in period of approximately 200-300 miles for full performance. Avoid hard braking during this period when possible.
- Check for brake fluid leaks around caliper connections and verify fluid level has not dropped after test drive.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P3604Start-Stop Brake Vacuum Pump PerformanceB0422Brake Warning Lamp CircuitC0085Brake Pressure Sensor CircuitC0088Brake Fluid Level Sensor CircuitC0090Brake Booster Pressure Sensor CircuitC0091Brake Booster PerformanceC0100Brake Pedal Position Sensor CircuitC0101Brake Pedal Position Sensor Range/PerformanceC0110Brake Apply CircuitC0111Brake Apply Circuit LowC0120Electronic Parking Brake Motor CircuitC0121Electronic Parking Brake Motor Overcurrent
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →