1.5L I4 TurboFWDCVTgasturbo
6 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
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brakes

Brake Caliper Rebuild - Rear

for 2017 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.5 h
Tools
13
Steps
12
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

This procedure details the complete disassembly, cleaning, inspection, and rebuilding of the rear brake calipers on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic 1.5L Turbo, including seal replacement and system bleeding.

Warnings

⚠️BRAKE SYSTEM CRITICAL: Errors in this procedure can result in complete brake failure, causing serious injury or death. If you lack experience rebuilding brake calipers or are uncomfortable with any step, have this service performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never reuse old caliper seals. Always use a complete rebuild kit with new seals, dust boots, and O-rings.
⚠️Brake fluid is highly corrosive to paint and toxic if ingested. Avoid skin contact and immediately flush any paint surfaces contacted by fluid.
Compressed air can forcefully eject the caliper piston. Keep fingers clear of the piston bore and use controlled air pressure (30-40 PSI maximum).
Inspect caliper bores carefully for scoring, pitting, or corrosion. Any damage beyond superficial staining requires caliper replacement, not rebuild.
ℹ️This procedure requires bleeding the brake system. You will need an assistant or a vacuum/pressure brake bleeding tool.

Tools required

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Parts

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Fluids

  • DOT 3 Brake Fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground, set parking brake, and place wheel chocks at front wheels
  2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
  3. Lift rear of vehicle with floor jack and support securely on jack stands at chassis lift points
  4. Remove rear wheels completely
  5. Open brake fluid reservoir cap slowly to prevent vacuum when retracting pistons, then close loosely
  6. Verify you have correct rebuild kit for rear calipers (Honda rear calipers use single-piston floating design)
  7. Set up clean workspace with parts cleaning tray and brake cleaner solvent
  8. Have catch container ready for brake fluid drainage

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove caliper from vehicle
    Remove the caliper slide pin bolts (upper and lower) using a 14mm socket. Lift caliper off the rotor and bracket. Support caliper with wire or bungee cord if not removing brake hose yet. Do NOT let caliper hang by the brake hose.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  2. 2
    Disconnect brake hose and drain fluid
    Place drain pan beneath caliper. Using a 12mm flare nut wrench, disconnect the brake hose banjo bolt from the caliper body. Remove the two copper crush washers (discard these). Allow brake fluid to drain completely. Cap or plug the brake hose end immediately to prevent contamination and further fluid loss.
    Brake fluid will drain from both the hose and caliper. Position drain pan to catch all fluid.
  3. 3
    Disassemble caliper and remove piston
    Remove the dust boot retaining ring if present. With caliper positioned over a padded workbench, apply compressed air (30-40 PSI) to the brake fluid inlet port. The piston will eject from the bore - keep fingers clear and control the piston with a shop rag. Remove the dust boot completely from the caliper body. DO NOT attempt to pry the piston out manually.
    ⚠️Use only low, controlled air pressure. Excessive pressure can launch the piston with dangerous force.
  4. 4
    Remove internal piston seal
    Using a plastic pick tool (never metal), carefully extract the square-section piston seal from the groove inside the caliper bore. Work the pick under one section and gently pry the seal out, working around the circumference. Avoid scratching or gouging the bore surface. Remove and discard the old bleeder screw cap.
    The caliper bore surface must remain undamaged. Any scratches or gouges will cause seal leaks and require caliper replacement.
  5. 5
    Clean and inspect caliper components
    Thoroughly clean the caliper body, piston, and all internal bores using brake cleaner solvent and lint-free rags. Clean the piston seal groove completely. Inspect the caliper bore for any scoring, pitting, rust, or corrosion. Inspect the piston chrome surface for peeling, pitting, or scoring. Any damage beyond light staining requires replacement. Measure piston diameter and bore if tools available - excessive clearance requires replacement.
    If bore or piston shows any corrosion, pitting, or damage, STOP and replace the entire caliper. Rebuilding damaged calipers will result in brake failure.
  6. 6
    Clean and lubricate slide pins
    Remove both caliper slide pins from the caliper bracket. Clean pins thoroughly with brake cleaner, removing all old grease and contamination. Inspect pin surfaces and rubber boots for tears, cracks, or damage. Clean the slide pin bores in the bracket. Apply a thin, even coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to the slide pins. Install new boots from rebuild kit if damaged.
    ℹ️Use ONLY silicone brake grease on slide pins. Petroleum-based grease will damage rubber components.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  7. 7
    Install new piston seal
    Dip the new piston seal (square-section O-ring from rebuild kit) in clean DOT 3 brake fluid. Ensure the seal is not twisted. Carefully install the seal into the groove in the caliper bore, working it in evenly around the entire circumference. Verify the seal is seated completely in the groove with no twists or pinches.
    Never install a dry seal. Always lubricate seals with clean brake fluid before installation.
  8. 8
    Install piston and dust boot
    Dip the piston in clean brake fluid, coating the external surface. Install the new dust boot onto the piston first, seating it in the piston groove. Align the piston squarely with the caliper bore and carefully push it into the bore, working it past the seal with gentle rotation and even pressure. Seat the outer lip of the dust boot into the caliper body groove. Ensure the boot is not twisted or pinched and is fully seated in both piston and caliper grooves.
    Do not cock the piston at an angle during installation as this can damage the new seal.
  9. 9
    Reinstall caliper on vehicle
    Apply thin coat of silicone brake grease to slide pins. Position caliper over rotor and onto bracket. Install slide pin bolts and torque to specification. Connect brake hose using NEW copper crush washers (one on each side of banjo fitting). Torque banjo bolt to manufacturer specification (typically 30-35 Nm, though not listed in database - use crush washer compression as guide).
    ⚠️Always use NEW copper crush washers. Reusing old washers will cause brake fluid leaks.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Bleed brake system
    Fill brake fluid reservoir to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Attach clear hose to bleeder screw and submerge other end in catch bottle with brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 3-5 times and hold. Open bleeder screw 1/2 turn, allow fluid and air to discharge, then close bleeder screw before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until fluid runs clear with no air bubbles. Torque bleeder screw to specification. Repeat for other side if rebuilt both calipers.
    ⚠️Never allow brake pedal to go to floor with bleeder open. Never reuse brake fluid captured in catch bottle.
    Torque spec
    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
  11. 11
    Test brake pedal and check for leaks
    With engine off, pump brake pedal repeatedly. Pedal should become firm and maintain pressure. If pedal is spongy, additional bleeding is required. Inspect all connections, bleeder screw, and brake hose banjo fitting for any signs of fluid leakage. Wipe all areas clean and recheck after several pedal applications. Top off brake fluid reservoir to MAX line.
    ⚠️If pedal remains soft or spongy after bleeding, or any leaks are present, DO NOT drive vehicle. Repeat bleeding or diagnose issue.
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheels and perform final checks
    Install wheels and hand-tighten lug nuts in star pattern. Lower vehicle until wheels just contact ground. Torque lug nuts to specification in star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Pump brake pedal several times and verify firm pedal before attempting to move vehicle.
    Torque spec
    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

  1. Reassembly is covered in the main procedure steps. Ensure all torque specifications are followed exactly.
  2. Verify brake fluid level is at MAX line in reservoir after bleeding is complete
  3. Install new copper crush washers on brake hose banjo bolts - never reuse old washers
  4. Apply high-temperature silicone brake grease to all slide pins before installation

Verification

  • With engine off, pump brake pedal 10-15 times. Pedal must become firm and hold steady pressure without fading
  • Start engine (power brakes) and verify pedal height and firmness is normal compared to pre-service condition
  • Inspect all caliper connections, bleeder screws, and brake hoses for any fluid seepage or leaks
  • Test drive in safe area at low speed (under 15 mph). Apply brakes gently and verify even braking with no pulling to either side
  • Perform several moderate brake applications from 25-30 mph to verify proper brake function and pedal feel
  • After test drive, recheck all connection points for leaks and verify brake fluid level
  • DO NOT return vehicle to normal service until brake pedal is firm and all leak checks pass
  • Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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