engine
Exhaust Manifold
for 2017 Honda Civic 1.5L I4 Turbo · FWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.0 h
Tools
10
Steps
16
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Remove and replace the exhaust manifold on a 2016-2021 Honda Civic 1.5L turbo, including turbocharger access and gasket replacement.
Warnings
⚠️Allow engine to cool completely for at least 3 hours before starting work. Exhaust components retain extreme heat.
⚠️Do not disconnect coolant lines while engine is hot. System is pressurized and can cause severe burns.
⚠Exhaust studs are prone to breaking on this engine. Apply penetrating oil 24 hours before removal if possible.
⚠Turbocharger oil feed and return lines are fragile. Do not over-torque or bend excessively.
ℹ️This procedure requires partial coolant drain as coolant lines connect near the turbocharger.
Tools required
Torque wrench (10-50 Nm range)Essential
O2 sensor socketEssential
Penetrating oilEssential
Anti-seize compoundEssential
Jack and jack standsEssential
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Parts
- Exhaust manifold gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust manifold to downpipe gasket × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Heat shield gasket or seal (if equipped) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- O2 sensor (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Exhaust manifold nuts × 8 — Use OEM specification - often replace on removal
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- Honda Type 2 Coolant (Blue) — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and allow engine to cool completely for at least 3 hours
- Disconnect negative battery terminal
- Raise and support front of vehicle on jack stands
- Remove engine undertray/splash shield
- Drain approximately 2 quarts of coolant from radiator petcock into drain pan
- Apply penetrating oil to all exhaust manifold nuts, heat shield bolts, and O2 sensor threads
- Remove plastic engine cover if equipped
Procedure
- 1Remove air intake componentsDisconnect the air intake tube from the turbocharger inlet. Remove the air filter box and intake duct assembly to gain access to the turbocharger and exhaust manifold area. Disconnect any vacuum lines or sensors attached to the intake system. Label connections for reassembly.
- 2Disconnect turbocharger coolant linesLocate the coolant feed and return lines connected to the turbocharger. Place a drain pan underneath. Using a 10mm or 12mm wrench, carefully loosen and disconnect the coolant line fittings. Allow coolant to drain into pan. Cap or plug open lines to prevent contamination.⚠Coolant lines use copper crush washers that should be replaced during reassembly.
- 3Remove upstream oxygen sensorLocate the upstream O2 sensor in the exhaust manifold (pre-turbo location). Disconnect the electrical connector. Using an O2 sensor socket, carefully remove the sensor. If sensor is seized, apply heat and additional penetrating oil. Do not force to avoid thread damage.Torque specO2 Sensor45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
- 4Disconnect turbocharger oil feed lineLocate the oil feed line connected to the top of the turbocharger center housing. Place absorbent material underneath to catch residual oil. Remove the banjo bolt or fitting securing the oil feed line. Cap the turbocharger inlet to prevent contamination.
- 5Remove heat shieldRemove all heat shield mounting bolts securing the exhaust manifold heat shield. The shield may be in multiple pieces. Carefully remove the heat shield sections, noting their orientation for reinstallation. Some bolts access the manifold underneath the shield.ℹ️Heat shield bolts are often corroded. Use penetrating oil and expect potential breakage.Torque specHeat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 6Disconnect exhaust downpipe from turbochargerFrom underneath the vehicle, locate the flange connection between the turbocharger outlet and the exhaust downpipe. Remove the support hanger bolts if present. Remove the flange bolts connecting the downpipe to the turbocharger. Separate the connection and lower the downpipe away from the turbo outlet. Remove and discard the gasket.Torque specExhaust Flange Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)Hanger Bolts19 Nm (14 lb-ft)
- 7Disconnect turbocharger oil return lineFrom underneath, locate the oil return line from the bottom of the turbocharger to the engine block. Remove the bolts securing the oil return tube. Carefully separate the connection and allow residual oil to drain. Cap or plug openings to prevent contamination.
- 8Remove exhaust manifold mounting nutsWorking from the engine bay, locate all exhaust manifold mounting nuts (typically 8 nuts on studs). Using penetrating oil as needed, carefully remove all manifold nuts. Work from the hottest area (center cylinders) toward the cooler ends to reduce warping stress. If studs break, they will need to be extracted before reinstallation.⚠Studs commonly break on this engine. Have stud extractor tools ready. Broken studs require drilling and extraction.Torque specExhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 9Remove exhaust manifold assemblyWith all fasteners removed, carefully work the exhaust manifold and integrated turbocharger assembly away from the cylinder head. The assembly is heavy and awkward. Maneuver it out through the top of the engine bay, being careful not to damage coolant lines, wiring, or other components. Remove and discard the old manifold gasket.⚠Manifold with turbocharger attached weighs approximately 25-30 lbs. Use caution when lifting.
- 10Clean mating surfacesThoroughly clean the cylinder head exhaust port mating surface using a plastic scraper and wire brush. Remove all old gasket material without gouging the aluminum surface. Clean with brake cleaner and wipe dry. Inspect the surface for warping or damage. Clean the turbocharger outlet flange mating surface as well.⚠Do not use metal scrapers on aluminum cylinder head surface. Use plastic scrapers only.
- 11Install new exhaust manifoldPosition the new exhaust manifold gasket onto the cylinder head studs, ensuring proper alignment with exhaust ports. Carefully position the exhaust manifold and turbocharger assembly onto the studs and against the gasket. Start all manifold nuts by hand. Apply anti-seize compound to the nut threads. Torque nuts in a hot-to-cold sequence (center to ends) in multiple passes: first to 15 Nm, then to final specification.ℹ️Verify tightening sequence in factory service manual. Typically work from center cylinders outward.Torque specExhaust Manifold Nuts30 Nm (22 lb-ft)
- 12Reconnect turbocharger oil return lineUsing a new gasket, reconnect the turbocharger oil return line to the bottom of the turbocharger and engine block. Install mounting bolts and torque to specification. Ensure proper sealing to prevent oil leaks.Torque specMounting Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
- 13Reconnect exhaust downpipeInstall a new gasket at the turbocharger outlet flange. Raise the exhaust downpipe into position and align with the turbocharger outlet. Apply anti-seize to flange bolt threads. Install and hand-tighten all flange bolts, then torque to specification in a cross pattern. Reconnect exhaust hanger bolts if removed.Torque specExhaust Flange Bolts45 Nm (33 lb-ft)Hanger Bolts19 Nm (14 lb-ft)
- 14Reinstall oxygen sensorApply anti-seize compound to the O2 sensor threads (avoid getting compound on the sensor tip). Thread the O2 sensor into the exhaust manifold by hand, then torque to specification using the O2 sensor socket. Reconnect the electrical connector.Torque specO2 Sensor45 Nm (33 lb-ft)
- 15Reconnect turbocharger oil and coolant linesReconnect the turbocharger oil feed line using a new copper crush washer on the banjo bolt. Torque to specification. Reconnect the turbocharger coolant feed and return lines using new copper washers. Torque fittings to specification. Ensure all connections are secure and properly routed.ℹ️Always replace copper crush washers on oil and coolant line banjo bolts.
- 16Reinstall heat shield and air intakeReinstall the heat shield sections in their original orientation. Install heat shield bolts and torque to specification. Reinstall the air intake system, air filter box, and intake tube. Reconnect all vacuum lines and sensors. Install engine undertray.Torque specHeat Shield Bolts10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Refill cooling system with Honda Type 2 coolant to proper level
- Check engine oil level and top off if necessary due to turbo oil line disconnection
- Reconnect negative battery terminal
- Double-check all fastener torque values and connection security
- Verify no tools or materials left in engine bay
Verification
- Start engine and allow to idle. Listen for exhaust leaks at manifold and downpipe connections
- Monitor for oil leaks at turbocharger oil feed and return connections
- Check for coolant leaks at turbocharger coolant line connections
- Verify coolant level after engine reaches operating temperature and recheck after cooling
- Test drive vehicle and verify normal turbocharger boost operation and no abnormal exhaust sounds
- Recheck all fastener torque values after first heat cycle (50-100 miles)
- Inspect for exhaust discoloration around gasket areas after several drive cycles
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0013Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 1P0014Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Bank 1P0023Exhaust Camshaft Position Actuator Circuit/Open Bank 2P0024Exhaust Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced Bank 2P0105Manifold Absolute Pressure/BARO CircuitP0400Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) FlowP2004Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 1P2005Intake Manifold Runner Control Stuck Open Bank 2P2014Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Circuit Bank 1P2015Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor/Switch Range/Performance Bank 1P3016Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Intermittent Bank 1C0315Air Suspension Exhaust Solenoid Circuit
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →