This procedure covers replacement of a single rear brake rotor on a 2012-2018 Jeep Wrangler with the 3.6L V6 engine, including caliper removal, rotor replacement, and proper torque specifications.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake rotor × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Rotor set screw (if corroded) × 1 — M6 x 1.0 x 10mm

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and engage parking brake
2. Chock the front wheels to prevent vehicle movement
3. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground
4. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at approved jacking point
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight
6. Remove wheel and tire assembly completely
7. Inspect brake components for wear, damage, or fluid leaks before proceeding

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove caliper mounting bolts
   Locate the two caliper mounting bolts (also called slide pin bolts) on the rear of the caliper assembly. These are 13mm bolts. Use a 13mm socket and ratchet to remove both caliper mounting bolts completely. Note that these bolts had thread locker applied from the factory.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Remove and support caliper
   Carefully lift the caliper assembly off the rotor and brake pads. Do NOT disconnect the brake hose. Support the caliper using wire or a bungee cord attached to the suspension or frame. Ensure there is no tension or stress on the rubber brake hose. The caliper must be supported and not hanging freely.
   ⚠Ensure caliper is securely supported. A falling caliper can cause injury and brake hose damage.
3. 3

   Remove brake pads and hardware
   Remove both brake pads from the caliper bracket. Note the position of any anti-rattle clips or shims for reinstallation. Remove the brake pad slide hardware if necessary for rotor clearance. Set all components aside in a clean area in the order removed.
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket
   Locate the two caliper bracket bolts (18mm) that secure the bracket to the axle flange. These are larger bolts positioned behind where the caliper was mounted. Remove both bracket bolts completely using an 18mm socket and ratchet. You may need a breaker bar as these bolts are torqued to 117 Nm. Remove the caliper bracket assembly.
   ℹ️These bolts are very tight. Apply penetrating oil and allow to soak if bolts are corroded or difficult to remove.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove rotor set screw
   Locate the small Phillips or Torx set screw in the face of the rotor (if equipped). This screw retains the rotor during assembly and can be removed. Use penetrating oil if corroded. If the screw is severely corroded or stripped, it can be drilled out as it is not structurally critical.
   ℹ️The set screw is for assembly retention only and is not safety-critical. Do not force if stripped; drill out carefully with a small bit.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove old rotor
   Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub. If the rotor is stuck due to corrosion, use a rubber mallet to tap the rotor from behind, alternating positions around the rotor. Do NOT strike the rotor friction surface. If severely stuck, thread bolts into the threaded holes in the rotor face (if equipped) to push the rotor off the hub.
7. 7

   Clean hub surface
   Use a wire brush to thoroughly clean the hub mounting surface where the rotor seats. Remove all rust, scale, and debris. The surface must be clean and smooth to ensure the new rotor mounts flush. Spray with brake cleaner and wipe clean. Inspect the wheel studs for damage.
8. 8

   Install new rotor
   Clean the new rotor with brake cleaner to remove any protective coating or oil from manufacturing. Position the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the center hole. Ensure the rotor seats completely flush against the hub surface with no gaps. Install the rotor set screw finger-tight, then torque to specification using a torque wrench.
   ℹ️New rotors often have a protective oil coating that must be removed with brake cleaner before installation to prevent brake contamination.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall caliper bracket
   Position the caliper bracket back onto the axle flange, aligning the bolt holes. Install both caliper bracket bolts and hand-tighten. Using a calibrated torque wrench and 18mm socket, torque both bracket bolts to exactly 117 Nm (86 lb-ft) in a crisscross pattern.
   ⚠️Bracket bolts are CRITICAL safety fasteners. Must be torqued to exact specification. Verify torque wrench is calibrated and set correctly.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts117 Nm (86 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall brake pads and hardware
    Reinstall any brake pad slide hardware and anti-rattle clips in their original positions. Install both brake pads into the caliper bracket in their correct orientation. Ensure pads move freely in the bracket slides.
11. 11

    Compress caliper piston
    Before reinstalling the caliper, the piston must be compressed fully into the caliper bore to accommodate the new rotor thickness. Use a C-clamp or disc brake piston tool positioned against the piston and the back of the caliper body. Slowly compress the piston fully. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir as fluid level will rise; remove fluid if necessary to prevent overflow.
    ⚠Compressing the piston forces brake fluid back into the master cylinder reservoir. Check reservoir and remove excess fluid if near maximum to prevent overflow.
12. 12

    Reinstall caliper
    Remove the support wire/bungee and carefully position the caliper over the brake pads and rotor. Align the caliper bolt holes with the slide pins. Apply medium-strength thread locker to the threads of both caliper mounting bolts as specified by manufacturer. Install both 13mm caliper bolts and hand-tighten. Using a calibrated torque wrench, torque both caliper bolts to exactly 102 Nm (75 lb-ft).
    ⚠️Caliper bolts are CRITICAL safety fasteners and MUST have thread locker applied. Torque to exact specification with calibrated torque wrench.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and torque lug nuts
    Position the wheel onto the hub and install all lug nuts hand-tight. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but vehicle weight is still on jack stands. Using a torque wrench, torque the lug nuts to 156 Nm (115 lb-ft) in a star/crisscross pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Perform final torque verification of all lug nuts in star pattern.
    ⚠️Wheel lug nuts are CRITICAL safety fasteners. Must be torqued in star pattern to specification. Verify torque after lowering vehicle.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts156 Nm (115 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all brake hardware is properly installed and nothing was left disconnected
2. Verify caliper moves freely and is not binding on the rotor
3. Check brake fluid level in master cylinder reservoir and top off with Mopar DOT 4 brake fluid if needed
4. Do NOT drive vehicle until brake pedal is pumped and verified per verification steps

Verification

• Before moving vehicle, pump brake pedal multiple times until pedal feels firm and normal. First pump will feel soft as piston repositions against new rotor
• Check brake pedal travel - should be firm with normal pedal height. If pedal is soft or goes to floor, DO NOT drive vehicle
• Verify brake fluid level is between MIN and MAX marks on reservoir
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area (5-10 mph) to verify proper brake function before normal driving
• Listen for any unusual noises during brake test - new rotors may have minor noise during bedding-in period
• After 50-100 miles of normal driving, re-torque wheel lug nuts to 156 Nm (115 lb-ft)
• Bed in new rotors per manufacturer recommendation - avoid hard braking for first 200 miles when possible

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