suspension
Control Arm Bushing - Rear
for 2017 Maserati Levante 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
3.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
12
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace worn rear control arm bushings on a 2017 Maserati Levante to restore suspension geometry and eliminate unwanted movement or noise from the rear suspension.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be properly supported on jack stands rated for its weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Suspension components are under tension. Use caution when separating joints to avoid sudden release of stored energy.
ℹ️A professional wheel alignment is mandatory after this repair. Suspension geometry will be altered during bushing replacement.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension (wheels on ground or simulation). Final torque with vehicle raised will result in premature bushing failure.
Tools required
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
Socket set (metric, 13mm-22mm)Essential
Breaker barEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential
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Parts
- Rear control arm bushing kit (left) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Rear control arm bushing kit (right) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin for ball joint × 2 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake.
- Place wheel chocks in front of front wheels.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground but do not remove.
- Raise rear of vehicle using floor jack at designated lift points.
- Support vehicle on jack stands at manufacturer-specified points on chassis rails.
- Remove rear wheels completely and set aside.
- Spray all suspension fasteners with penetrating lubricant and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes.
Procedure
- 1Disconnect sway bar link from control armLocate the rear sway bar link connection to the lower control arm. Use an Allen key to hold the ball stud shaft from rotating while loosening the retaining nut with a socket. Remove the nut completely and separate the sway bar link from the control arm. Support the link with wire if necessary to prevent strain on the opposite side connection.Torque specSway Bar Link64 Nm (47 lb-ft)
- 2Mark control arm position and remove ball joint cotter pinMark the position of the control arm relative to the knuckle and chassis mounting points for reference during reinstallation. Locate the ball joint castle nut at the outer end of the control arm where it connects to the rear knuckle. Remove the cotter pin by straightening the ends and pulling it out. Discard the old cotter pin as it cannot be reused.
- 3Separate ball joint from knuckleLoosen the ball joint castle nut but do not remove it completely (leave 2-3 threads engaged for safety). Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to break the taper connection between the ball joint stud and the knuckle. Once the taper is broken, remove the castle nut completely and separate the control arm from the knuckle. Support the knuckle assembly to prevent damage to brake lines or ABS sensors.⚠Keep castle nut partially threaded during separation to prevent sudden release of control arm. Remove protective covers from ball joint separator to avoid personal injury.Torque specBall Joint Nut92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
- 4Remove control arm chassis mounting boltsLocate the control arm mounting bolts at the chassis or subframe connection points (typically front and rear pivot points). Support the control arm with a jack or by hand to prevent it from falling when the bolts are removed. Use a breaker bar to loosen the control arm bolts, then remove them completely. Note the orientation and position of any washers, spacers, or alignment shims for reinstallation. Remove the control arm from the vehicle.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 5Remove old bushings from control armPlace the control arm in a hydraulic press or secure it in the bushing removal tool. Position the appropriate removal cup/driver against the old bushing outer shell. Apply steady pressure with the press to force the old bushing out of the control arm bore. If the bushing is bonded or severely deteriorated, it may be necessary to cut the rubber away from the inner sleeve first, then collapse the outer shell to remove it. Clean the control arm bore thoroughly with a wire brush, removing all rust, debris, and old bushing material. Inspect the bore for damage or deformation.
- 6Install new bushings into control armApply a light coat of the lubricant provided in the bushing kit (or soapy water if none provided) to the new bushing outer shell and control arm bore. Position the new bushing at the bore entrance, ensuring correct orientation if the bushing is directional (check for alignment marks or offset design). Use the hydraulic press with the appropriate installation driver/cup to press the new bushing into the control arm bore. Press until the bushing is fully seated and flush with the control arm or at the specified depth per manufacturer instructions. Verify the bushing is centered and not cocked in the bore.⚠Ensure bushing orientation is correct before pressing. Some bushings have specific front/rear or up/down orientation that affects suspension geometry.
- 7Reinstall control arm to chassisPosition the control arm with new bushings back into its mounting location on the chassis or subframe. Insert the control arm mounting bolts through the bushings and chassis brackets, ensuring any washers, spacers, or shims are in their original positions. Thread the bolts by hand first to ensure proper alignment. Snug the bolts enough to hold the control arm in position but DO NOT torque to specification yet - this must be done with vehicle weight on the suspension to prevent bushing binding and premature failure.
- 8Reconnect ball joint to knuckleClean the ball joint stud taper and knuckle bore with a wire brush to remove any dirt or corrosion. Position the control arm ball joint stud into the knuckle bore. Install the new castle nut and tighten to specification using a torque wrench. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud. Bend the cotter pin ends to secure it properly - one end up, one end down, or both ends around the nut per Maserati specification.Torque specBall Joint Nut92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
- 9Reconnect sway bar linkPosition the sway bar link ball stud into the mounting point on the control arm. Install the retaining nut and hand-tighten. Use an Allen key to hold the ball stud shaft from rotating while torquing the nut to specification with a torque wrench. Ensure the link moves freely without binding.Torque specSway Bar Link64 Nm (47 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall wheels and lower vehicle partiallyInstall the rear wheels and thread all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern using a torque wrench to specification. Carefully lower the vehicle using the floor jack until the wheels just touch the ground and the suspension begins to compress (simulating normal vehicle weight), but keep the jack stands in place as a safety backup.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts142 Nm (105 lb-ft)
- 11Torque control arm bolts with vehicle weight on suspensionWith the vehicle weight now on the suspension (wheels touching ground and suspension compressed to normal ride height), torque the control arm chassis mounting bolts to specification. This is critical - torquing with the suspension hanging will pre-load the bushings incorrectly and cause premature failure. Use a torque wrench to bring each bolt to the specified 165 Nm (122 lb-ft). After torquing, remove jack stands and fully lower the vehicle to the ground.⚠Control arm bolts MUST be torqued with vehicle weight on suspension. Failure to do so will result in bushing binding, squeaking, and premature wear.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 12Perform final torque verificationWith the vehicle completely on the ground, perform a final verification of all torque specifications. Re-check wheel lug nuts, ball joint nut, sway bar link nuts, and control arm bolts. Verify all cotter pins are properly installed and secured. Check that no tools, rags, or parts were left in the wheel well area.
Reassembly
- Repeat entire procedure for opposite side rear control arm if both sides require bushing replacement.
- Dispose of old bushings and cotter pins according to local regulations.
- Clean any grease or lubricant from wheels and brake components.
Verification
- Test drive the vehicle at low speed in a safe area and listen for any unusual noises from the rear suspension.
- Check for proper tracking - vehicle should drive straight without pulling to either side.
- Schedule a professional four-wheel alignment immediately. Suspension geometry has been altered and alignment is mandatory.
- After 50-100 miles of driving, re-check all fastener torque specifications to ensure nothing has loosened.
- Verify no clunking, squeaking, or abnormal noises are present from the rear suspension during driving over bumps or during cornering.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0001Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/OpenP0002Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Range/PerformanceP0030HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1P0031HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1P0045Turbo/Supercharger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit/OpenP0046Turbo/Supercharger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit Range/PerformanceP0050HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1P0051HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2 Sensor 1P0090Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control CircuitP0091Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit LowP0125Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel ControlP0216Injection Timing Control Circuit
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