suspension
Lower Control Arm - Rear
for 2017 Maserati Levante 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.2 h
Tools
10
Steps
13
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear lower control arm on a 2017 Maserati Levante with 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo engine, including proper torque specifications and wheel weight settlement requirements.
Warnings
⚠️Vehicle must be properly supported on jack stands rated for the vehicle weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels (at ride height). Failure to do so will cause premature bushing failure.
⚠Suspension components are under tension. Use caution when removing fasteners as components may shift suddenly.
ℹ️A professional wheel alignment is required after this repair.
Tools required
Torque wrench (20-200 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket for wheel lugsEssential
Ball joint separator toolEssential
New cotter pinEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Rear lower control arm × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Control arm mounting bushings (if not included with arm) × 2 — Use OEM specification
- Cotter pin for ball joint × 1 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at manufacturer-specified jacking points
- Remove rear wheel on affected side
- Spray all suspension fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
- Inspect the control arm and surrounding components for additional damage or wear
Procedure
- 1Support the rear knuckle assemblyPosition a floor jack under the rear knuckle/hub assembly with a block of wood to protect components. Raise jack slightly to take up suspension weight and relieve tension on the control arm. This prevents the suspension from dropping when the control arm is disconnected.
- 2Disconnect sway bar link if necessaryIf the sway bar link interferes with control arm removal, remove the lower sway bar link nut. Hold the shaft with an Allen key to prevent spinning while loosening the nut. Mark the orientation if needed for reassembly.Torque specSway Bar Link64 Nm (47 lb-ft)
- 3Remove ball joint cotter pin and nutStraighten and remove the cotter pin from the ball joint castle nut. Discard the old cotter pin. Using an appropriate socket, loosen and remove the ball joint nut completely. Do not reuse the cotter pin.Torque specBall Joint Nut92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
- 4Separate ball joint from knuckleInstall a ball joint separator tool between the control arm ball joint and the knuckle. Tighten the separator tool to apply pressure, then strike the knuckle boss sharply with a hammer to break the taper free. Remove the separator tool once the ball joint stud releases from the knuckle.⚠Do not strike the ball joint stud directly as this can damage the threads. Strike the knuckle only.
- 5Remove front control arm mounting boltLocate the front mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the subframe or chassis. This is typically the forward pivot point. Remove the bolt completely and set aside. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 6Remove rear control arm mounting boltLocate the rear mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the subframe or chassis. This is the rearward pivot point. Remove the bolt completely. The control arm should now be free to remove from the vehicle.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 7Remove control arm from vehicleCarefully maneuver the control arm out of the suspension assembly. You may need to lower or adjust the floor jack position slightly to create clearance. Inspect the removed control arm for failure mode (torn bushings, bent arm, damaged ball joint).
- 8Prepare new control armUnpack the new control arm and verify it matches the old unit exactly. Clean all mounting bolt threads on the subframe/chassis with a wire brush. Inspect ball joint stud threads and clean if necessary. Apply a light coat of anti-seize to mounting bolt threads (not in the bushing area).
- 9Install new control armPosition the new control arm into the mounting location. Align the front bushing with the mounting point and insert the front mounting bolt finger-tight. Then align the rear bushing and insert the rear mounting bolt finger-tight. Do NOT torque these bolts yet.
- 10Connect ball joint to knuckleRaise or lower the floor jack as needed to align the ball joint stud with the hole in the knuckle. Insert the ball joint stud through the knuckle. Install the ball joint nut and tighten to specification. Install a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud, then bend the ends to secure.ℹ️If the cotter pin hole does not align, tighten the nut slightly more (never loosen to align). The hole should align within 1/6 turn.Torque specBall Joint Nut92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
- 11Reconnect sway bar link if removedIf the sway bar link was disconnected, reconnect it now. Hold the shaft with an Allen key and tighten the nut to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link64 Nm (47 lb-ft)
- 12Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and hand-tighten all lug nuts in a star pattern. Remove jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle until the wheels contact the ground but the full weight is not yet on the suspension. Torque wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Then lower vehicle completely to the ground.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts142 Nm (105 lb-ft)
- 13Final torque control arm bolts at ride heightWith the vehicle at normal ride height (full weight on wheels), torque both control arm mounting bolts to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft). This is critical - torquing with suspension hanging will cause premature bushing failure. If using jack stands, lower vehicle onto ramps or drive onto a level surface to achieve ride height, then torque the bolts from underneath.⚠Control arm bolts MUST be torqued at ride height with vehicle weight on suspension. This is the most critical step to prevent bushing failure.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all fasteners have been properly torqued to specification
- Verify new cotter pin is properly installed and bent
- Remove floor jack from under knuckle assembly
- Test drive vehicle at low speed in a safe area and listen for abnormal noises
Verification
- Bounce the rear of the vehicle and verify no clunking or abnormal noises from the repaired side
- Verify the ball joint cotter pin is properly secured and the nut is tight
- Visually inspect all fasteners to confirm proper installation
- Schedule a professional wheel alignment immediately - suspension geometry has been altered
- After 50-100 miles, re-check torque on control arm mounting bolts and ball joint nut
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0001Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit/OpenP0002Fuel Volume Regulator Control Circuit Range/PerformanceP0030HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 1 Sensor 1P0031HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 1 Sensor 1P0045Turbo/Supercharger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit/OpenP0046Turbo/Supercharger Boost Control Solenoid Circuit Range/PerformanceP0050HO2S Heater Control Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1P0051HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low Bank 2 Sensor 1P0090Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control CircuitP0091Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 Control Circuit LowP0125Insufficient Coolant Temperature for Closed Loop Fuel ControlP0216Injection Timing Control Circuit
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →