suspension

Lower Control Arm

for 2017 Maserati Levante 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo · AWD

Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

3.0 h

Tools

Steps

✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace the lower control arm on a 2017 Maserati Levante 3.0L V6 Twin Turbo RWD, including disconnecting the ball joint, removing mounting bolts, and installing a new control arm with proper torque specifications.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use properly rated jack stands.

⚠Control arm bolts must be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels. Failure to do so will cause premature bushing failure and alignment issues.

⚠Ball joint separator tools can cause sudden release of tension. Keep hands and body clear of pinch points.

ℹ️This procedure requires a post-repair wheel alignment. Do not drive the vehicle extensively before alignment.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential

Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)Essential

19mm socket for wheel lug nutsEssential

Ball joint separator or pickle forkEssential

18mm socket for ball joint nutEssential

22mm socket for control arm boltsEssential

Breaker barEssential

Pry bar

Wire brush

Penetrating oil

New cotter pin punch and hammerEssential

Wheel chocksEssential

Parts

Lower control arm assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification
Cotter pin for ball joint × 1 — 3mm x 30mm split pin
Control arm mounting hardware kit (if worn) × 1 — OEM bolts and washers

Preparation

Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
Raise front of vehicle and secure on jack stands at manufacturer designated lift points
Remove wheel completely
Spray penetrating oil on all control arm mounting bolts and ball joint nut, allow 10-15 minutes to penetrate

Procedure

1
Remove ball joint cotter pin
Locate the ball joint castle nut where the lower control arm connects to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin using a punch and hammer or needle-nose pliers. Discard the old cotter pin as a new one will be installed.
2
Loosen ball joint nut
Using an 18mm socket, loosen the ball joint castle nut but do not remove it completely yet. Leave the nut threaded on 2-3 turns to protect the threads and prevent the knuckle from dropping suddenly when the taper releases.
⚠Do not fully remove the nut before separating the taper to prevent sudden dropping of the knuckle.
3
Separate ball joint from knuckle
Position a ball joint separator tool or pickle fork between the control arm and steering knuckle at the ball joint taper. Strike the tool firmly or tighten the separator to break the taper loose. Once the taper releases, remove the castle nut completely and lower the control arm away from the knuckle.
⚠Ball joint may release suddenly. Ensure jack stands are stable and keep hands clear of pinch points.
4
Support the control arm
Place a floor jack under the outer end of the lower control arm to support its weight and maintain suspension geometry. This prevents strain on other components during removal.
5
Remove front control arm mounting bolt
Locate the front control arm mounting bolt connecting the control arm to the subframe. Using a 22mm socket and breaker bar, remove the bolt completely. Note the orientation of any washers or spacers for reinstallation.
ℹ️The control arm is under slight tension. The jack will support the arm as the bolts are removed.
6
Remove rear control arm mounting bolt
Using a 22mm socket and breaker bar, remove the rear control arm mounting bolt that connects to the subframe. Keep track of all washers and hardware orientation. The control arm should now be free to remove.
7
Remove lower control arm
Lower the floor jack slowly and maneuver the control arm out of the wheel well. Inspect the mounting points on the subframe and knuckle for damage, corrosion, or wear. Clean mounting surfaces with a wire brush if needed.
8
Compare old and new control arms
Place the new control arm next to the old one and verify they are identical in length, mounting hole positions, and ball joint configuration. Check that the new control arm includes a ball joint or that you have obtained the correct matching components.
9
Install new control arm to subframe
Position the new lower control arm into place and align the mounting holes with the subframe. Insert the front and rear mounting bolts through the control arm bushings and subframe. Thread the bolts by hand but do not torque them yet - they must be torqued with vehicle weight on wheels.
⚠Do NOT torque control arm bolts at this stage. Final torque must be applied with vehicle weight on suspension.
10
Connect ball joint to knuckle
Use the floor jack to raise the control arm and align the ball joint stud with the hole in the steering knuckle. Insert the ball joint stud into the knuckle and thread the castle nut onto the stud by hand. Tighten the nut using an 18mm socket.
Torque spec
Ball Joint Nut92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
11
Install new cotter pin
Align the castle nut slots with the cotter pin hole in the ball joint stud. If necessary, tighten the nut slightly (never loosen) to align the slots. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole and bend the ends to secure it properly.
ℹ️If slots do not align, tighten the nut up to 1/6 turn more. Never loosen the nut to align cotter pin holes.
12
Reinstall wheel
Mount the wheel onto the hub and thread all lug nuts by hand. Tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern using a hand wrench, but do not torque to final specification yet.
13
Lower vehicle for final torque
Carefully lower the vehicle from the jack stands until the suspension is supporting the full vehicle weight but the wheels are just touching the ground (or fully on ground). This loads the control arm bushings in their normal operating position.
14
Torque control arm mounting bolts
With the vehicle weight on the suspension, torque both the front and rear control arm mounting bolts to specification using a 22mm socket and torque wrench. This ensures the bushings are torqued in their neutral position, preventing premature wear.
⚠This step is critical. Torquing with suspension unloaded will cause bushing failure and handling issues.
Torque spec
Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
15
Final wheel torque
Fully lower the vehicle to the ground. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern using a torque wrench. Perform a final check of all fasteners.
Torque spec
Wheel Lug Nuts142 Nm (105 lb-ft)

Reassembly

Ensure the ball joint cotter pin is properly bent and secured
Verify all mounting bolts were torqued with vehicle weight on suspension
Double-check wheel lug nuts are torqued in proper star pattern
Remove wheel chocks and test drive vehicle at low speed to verify no abnormal noises

Verification

Test drive the vehicle and listen for clunking or knocking noises from the front suspension
Verify steering response feels normal with no excessive play
Check that the vehicle tracks straight on level road (though alignment will be needed)
Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately - control arm replacement affects suspension geometry
After 50-100 miles, re-check all mounting bolt torque values to ensure nothing has loosened

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