Brake Caliper Bracket

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the brake caliper bracket on a 2007-2013 Mercedes-Benz S65 AMG, including caliper removal, brake line handling, and proper torque specifications for this high-performance braking system.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Brake caliper bracket × 1 — Use OEM Mercedes-Benz specification
• Brake caliper bracket bolts × 2 — Replace if corroded or damaged
• Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — Always replace - 14mm diameter
• Brake pads (if worn or contaminated) × 1 — AMG performance pads recommended

Fluids

• DOT 4+ Brake Fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake firmly
2. Chock the rear wheels (if working on front) or front wheels (if working on rear) with wheel chocks on both sides
3. Remove some brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using a turkey baster to prevent overflow during caliper piston compression (do not reuse extracted fluid)
4. Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on the ground, but do not remove
5. Lift vehicle using floor jack at designated jacking points and support with heavy-duty jack stands rated for vehicle weight
6. Remove wheel completely and set aside in safe location
7. Clean the brake assembly area with brake cleaner to remove road debris and brake dust
8. Inspect brake rotor, pads, caliper, and brake lines for additional wear or damage that may require attention

Procedure

1. 1

   Compress the caliper piston
   Before removing the caliper, slowly compress the caliper piston(s) back into the caliper bore using a C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool. Place a piece of wood against the piston face to distribute pressure evenly. This prevents brake fluid overflow and makes caliper removal easier. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir and remove fluid if it approaches the maximum level.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide pin bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the rear of the caliper. These are typically 13mm or 17mm depending on the specific caliper design. Using the appropriate socket, remove both slide pin bolts completely. The caliper should now be free to pivot or remove from the bracket.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support and disconnect brake hose
   Support the caliper with a brake caliper hanger or heavy-duty wire to prevent stress on the brake hose. Place a brake fluid catch pan beneath the brake hose connection. Using a flare nut wrench to prevent rounding, carefully loosen and remove the banjo bolt securing the brake hose to the caliper. Brake fluid will drain from the line. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from the banjo bolt. Immediately plug the brake hose end with a clean rubber cap or plastic plug to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.
   ⚠Brake fluid will drain freely once the banjo bolt is removed. Have catch pan positioned and be prepared for fluid spillage.
   Torque spec

   Brake Hose Banjo Bolt55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove caliper from bracket
   With the brake hose disconnected, completely remove the caliper from the bracket and set aside on a clean work surface. Do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose at any time. Remove the brake pads from the caliper bracket and inspect for uneven wear, contamination, or damage. Set pads aside if reusable, or discard if replacement is needed.
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket bolts
   Locate the two large caliper bracket mounting bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle or axle housing. These bolts require substantial force to remove. Using an 18mm or 19mm socket with a breaker bar, remove both bracket bolts completely. The bracket bolts are torqued to 120 Nm (88 lb-ft) and may be difficult to break free, especially on older vehicles with corrosion. Apply penetrating oil if needed and allow time to soak.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are under high torque. Use proper body positioning and secure footing to prevent injury if the wrench slips.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts - Front120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove old caliper bracket
   With both bracket bolts removed, pull the caliper bracket assembly off the steering knuckle/axle housing. The bracket may be tight due to corrosion or debris buildup. If stuck, tap gently with a rubber mallet - do not pry against the rotor. Remove the bracket and inspect the mounting surface on the knuckle for damage, corrosion, or wear.
7. 7

   Prepare mounting surface and new bracket
   Clean the caliper bracket mounting surface on the steering knuckle thoroughly using a brass wire brush and brake cleaner. Remove all corrosion, old threadlocker, and debris. Inspect the mounting surface for cracks or damage. Clean the threads in the knuckle bolt holes with a thread chaser or tap if available. Verify the new caliper bracket is correct for your vehicle and inspect for any shipping damage. Clean any protective coating from the new bracket mounting surface.
8. 8

   Install new caliper bracket
   Position the new caliper bracket onto the steering knuckle, aligning the bolt holes carefully. Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker to the threads of the new (or cleaned original) bracket bolts. Start both bracket bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a torque wrench, tighten the front caliper bracket bolts to the specified torque of 120 Nm (88 lb-ft) in an alternating pattern to ensure even seating.
   ⚠️Proper torque on bracket bolts is CRITICAL for safe brake operation. Use a calibrated torque wrench and verify torque specification.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts - Front120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install brake pads and prepare caliper
   Install the brake pads into the new caliper bracket, ensuring they are properly seated in the bracket clips. Apply a thin layer of silicone brake grease to the pad backing plates where they contact the bracket (not on the friction surface). Verify the caliper piston(s) are fully retracted. If the caliper was disconnected from the brake line for an extended period, you may need to manually push any air from the caliper bore.
10. 10

    Reconnect brake hose to caliper
    Position new copper crush washers on both sides of the brake hose banjo fitting (one on each side of the fitting eye). Align the banjo fitting with the caliper port and insert the banjo bolt through the washers and fitting. Hand-tighten the banjo bolt first to ensure proper thread engagement and washer positioning. Using a torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft). Ensure the brake hose is not twisted or kinked.
    ⚠️Always use NEW copper crush washers. Reusing old washers will result in brake fluid leaks and brake system failure.
    Torque spec

    Brake Hose Banjo Bolt55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Install caliper onto bracket
    Position the caliper over the brake pads and onto the caliper bracket. Ensure the caliper slides smoothly over the pads and aligns with the slide pin bolt holes. Apply a thin coating of silicone brake grease to the slide pin bolts and their rubber boots. Insert both slide pin bolts and hand-tighten to ensure proper thread engagement. Using a torque wrench, tighten the slide pin bolts to 35 Nm (26 lb-ft).
    ⚠Do not overtighten slide pin bolts as this can damage the pins and cause caliper binding, leading to uneven brake wear.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Bleed the brake system
    Fill the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 4+ brake fluid from an unopened container. Attach a brake bleeding kit or clear hose to the bleeder screw on the caliper. Position the other end of the hose in a clear container partially filled with brake fluid. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times and hold pressure, then open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat until no air bubbles appear in the fluid stream. Tighten the bleeder screw to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft). Top off reservoir as needed during bleeding process.
    ⚠️Air in the brake system will cause brake failure. Bleeding must be thorough and complete. Test brake pedal firmness before driving.
    ⚠The bleeder screw is easily stripped. Use proper size wrench and do not exceed 10 Nm torque specification.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Clean the wheel hub surface and wheel mounting surface with a wire brush. Position the wheel onto the hub and hand-thread all lug nuts. Using a torque wrench, tighten the lug nuts in a star pattern to 183 Nm (135 lb-ft). Carefully raise the vehicle slightly to remove the jack stands, then lower completely to the ground. With the vehicle on the ground, re-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the final specification of 183 Nm (135 lb-ft).
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all fasteners have been tightened to proper torque specifications using a calibrated torque wrench
2. Check brake fluid reservoir level and top off to MAX line with fresh DOT 4+ fluid if needed
3. Pump brake pedal firmly multiple times until pedal feels firm and consistent - do not start engine yet
4. Inspect all brake connections for signs of fluid leakage, particularly at the banjo bolt and bleeder screw
5. Start engine and pump brake pedal again - pedal should remain firm and not sink to the floor
6. Re-check all torque specifications after initial test, especially bracket bolts and wheel lug nuts

Verification

• With engine running, apply firm brake pedal pressure for 30 seconds - pedal should not sink or feel spongy
• Visually inspect the entire brake assembly for any signs of fluid leakage at all connection points
• Check brake fluid reservoir level - should be at MAX line and fluid should be clear, not dark or contaminated
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area - brakes should engage smoothly without pulling to one side
• Listen for any unusual noises during brake application (grinding, squealing beyond normal pad break-in)
• After initial test drive of 5-10 miles, re-check all torque specifications and inspect for leaks
• The brake pedal should feel firm and responsive - if pedal is soft or sinks, repeat bleeding procedure
• Have the vehicle professionally inspected before highway driving if you have any concerns about brake performance
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving to ensure they remain properly seated

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