Tie Rod End - Outer

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the outer tie rod end on a 2007-2013 Mercedes-Benz S65 AMG, including proper torque specifications and alignment considerations.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pin × 1 — 3.2mm x 32mm
• Tie rod lock nut × 1 — M14 self-locking nut

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
2. Access vehicle settings via COMAND system and disable Airmatic suspension (Settings > Vehicle > Suspension > Disable)
3. Loosen wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
4. Raise front of vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking points and secure with jack stands under subframe
5. Remove wheel completely
6. Spray penetrating oil on tie rod lock nut, outer tie rod threads, and castle nut/cotter pin

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, use a paint pen or marker to mark the exact position where the outer tie rod threads into the inner tie rod. Count and record the number of visible threads. Measure the overall length from the center of the inner tie rod ball joint to the center of the outer tie rod ball joint. This preserves the approximate toe setting.
2. 2

   Remove cotter pin and castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the castle nut on the steering knuckle using pliers. If the cotter pin is corroded, it may need to be drilled out. Remove the castle nut using a 19mm socket. Do not reuse the cotter pin.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Separate tie rod from knuckle
   Use a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork to separate the outer tie rod ball joint from the steering knuckle. Position the separator tool between the knuckle and tie rod end. Strike firmly with a hammer or use the screw-type separator. The S65 has heavy-duty suspension components that may require significant force. Avoid damaging the ball joint boot if reusing the tie rod end.
   ⚠Do not use excessive heat near the ball joint as this can damage the rubber boot and grease seal.
4. 4

   Loosen tie rod lock nut
   Using a 19mm wrench, loosen the lock nut securing the outer tie rod to the inner tie rod. This nut is located on the threaded section between the inner and outer tie rod ends. Hold the outer tie rod end to prevent it from spinning while loosening the lock nut. Back the lock nut off several turns but leave it on the threads.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod Lock Nut92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove outer tie rod end
   Count the number of turns as you unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod. Record this number for installation reference. Remove the lock nut once the outer tie rod is fully unscrewed. Clean the threads on the inner tie rod with a wire brush to remove any corrosion or debris.
6. 6

   Prepare new tie rod end
   Compare the new outer tie rod end to the old one to verify correct part. Check that the ball joint moves smoothly and the boot is intact. Thread the new lock nut onto the inner tie rod first, then apply a small amount of anti-seize to the threads if desired (avoid contaminating ball joint area).
7. 7

   Install new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod the same number of turns as recorded during removal, aligning with your reference marks. This should position it very close to the original setting. Do not tighten the lock nut yet.
8. 8

   Install tie rod into steering knuckle
   Insert the ball joint stud of the outer tie rod into the steering knuckle taper. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification. The castle nut slots must align with the cotter pin hole in the stud. If needed, tighten the nut slightly more (never loosen) to align the next slot with the hole.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install new cotter pin
   Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and ball joint stud. Bend the legs of the cotter pin apart to secure it - one leg should wrap around the back of the nut, the other can be bent upward or trimmed. Ensure the cotter pin cannot come loose.
10. 10

    Temporarily secure lock nut
    Snug the lock nut against the outer tie rod end by hand, but do not torque it to final specification yet. This allows for adjustment during alignment. The final torque will be applied after professional wheel alignment.
    ℹ️The lock nut must only be torqued to specification AFTER the wheel alignment is complete.
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel
    Reinstall the wheel and thread the lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground to prevent wheel rotation. Torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Complete installation
    Lower the vehicle completely and remove jack stands. Re-enable the Airmatic suspension system through the COMAND interface. Rock the vehicle side to side to settle the suspension.

Reassembly

1. Do not torque the tie rod lock nut to final specification until after wheel alignment is completed
2. Once alignment is complete, have the technician torque the tie rod lock nut to 92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
3. Verify cotter pin is properly installed and secured

Verification

• Drive vehicle to qualified alignment shop immediately - do not delay or drive at highway speeds
• After alignment, verify steering wheel is centered when driving straight
• Check for any abnormal tire wear patterns after 100 miles
• Verify no play or looseness in the tie rod end by having someone turn the steering wheel while you observe the tie rod connection with wheels on ground
• Confirm Airmatic suspension is functioning properly after re-enabling

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