Tie Rods - Both Sides

Replace both left and right tie rod assemblies on the 2007-2013 Mercedes-Benz S65 AMG, including removal of tie rod ends from steering knuckles and outer tie rods from inner tie rod assemblies.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Left outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Right outer tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Cotter pins (M3x30mm) × 2 — A0009900045
• Left inner tie rod assembly (if replacing complete tie rod) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Right inner tie rod assembly (if replacing complete tie rod) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake
2. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
3. Raise front of vehicle and support securely on jack stands at front subframe jacking points
4. Remove both front wheels completely
5. Spray tie rod end tapers and lock nuts with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes
6. Turn steering wheel to center position and lock steering column or mark steering wheel position

Procedure

1. 1

   Mark tie rod position for reference
   Before removing any components, measure and record the distance from the tie rod lock nut to the end of the tie rod threads. Use a paint marker to mark the position of the outer tie rod end on the threads of the inner tie rod. This provides a baseline for initial installation of the new tie rod end to minimize alignment offset.
2. 2

   Remove tie rod end cotter pin
   Locate the tie rod end castle nut where it connects to the steering knuckle. Straighten and remove the cotter pin using pliers or a cotter pin removal tool. Discard the old cotter pin as it cannot be reused.
3. 3

   Loosen tie rod end castle nut
   Using a 22mm wrench, loosen the castle nut on the tie rod end but do not remove it completely yet. Leave the nut threaded on by 2-3 turns to protect the threads and prevent the tie rod from dropping suddenly when separated.
   ⚠Do not fully remove the castle nut before separating the taper to prevent the tie rod from falling and causing injury or damage.
4. 4

   Separate tie rod end from steering knuckle
   Using a tie rod end separator tool or pickle fork, separate the tie rod end taper from the steering knuckle. Position the tool between the steering knuckle and tie rod end ball joint housing and strike firmly with a hammer, or use the threaded separator tool to apply pressure. Once the taper releases, remove the castle nut completely and withdraw the tie rod end stud from the knuckle.
   ⚠Pickle fork tools will damage the tie rod end boot. Only use if replacing the tie rod end. Use a proper ball joint separator tool to preserve components.
5. 5

   Loosen tie rod lock nut
   Locate the lock nut on the tie rod assembly where the outer tie rod threads into the inner tie rod. This is typically a 19mm nut. Hold the tie rod end with an adjustable wrench to prevent rotation and loosen the lock nut. You may need to apply significant force as these are typically very tight.
6. 6

   Remove outer tie rod end
   Count and record the number of turns as you unscrew the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod assembly. This provides a reference for installation depth. Once fully removed, inspect the threads on the inner tie rod for damage. Clean threads with a wire brush and check with a thread chaser if necessary.
7. 7

   Install new outer tie rod end
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner tie rod assembly by the same number of turns recorded during removal, aligning with the paint mark made earlier. Do not tighten the lock nut at this time. Verify that the tie rod end can move freely in its ball joint socket.
8. 8

   Install tie rod end to steering knuckle
   Insert the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle taper. Ensure the taper seats properly and is clean of debris. Thread on a new castle nut and tighten to specification. The castle nut slots must align with the cotter pin hole; if they do not align at proper torque, tighten further to the next slot alignment (never loosen to align).
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Install new cotter pin
   Insert a new cotter pin through the castle nut and tie rod end stud. Bend the legs of the cotter pin outward and around the nut to secure it properly. Ensure the cotter pin cannot work loose during operation.
10. 10

    Repeat for opposite side
    Perform steps 1 through 9 for the opposite side tie rod end, following the same measurement and marking procedures to maintain approximate alignment settings.
11. 11

    Reinstall wheels
    Mount both front wheels and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower the vehicle until the wheels contact the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Tighten the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts183 Nm (135 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Final torque of tie rod lock nuts
    With the vehicle lowered and weight on the suspension, the tie rod lock nuts should only be final-torqued AFTER a professional alignment is performed. Mark the current position and do not disturb until alignment is complete. After alignment, have the technician torque the tie rod lock nuts to specification.
    ℹ️Lock nuts must only be torqued after final alignment to avoid disturbing toe settings.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod Lock Nut92 Nm (68 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Ensure all cotter pins are properly installed and secured
2. Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification
3. Check that tie rod ends move freely in their sockets without binding
4. Confirm steering wheel returns to center position smoothly

Verification

• Test steering operation at idle with wheels off ground - verify smooth motion through full range without binding or noise
• Road test at low speed in safe area to verify steering response before driving to alignment shop
• Have a professional four-wheel alignment performed immediately - verify toe settings are within specification
• After alignment, perform final torque of tie rod lock nuts to 92 Nm (68 lb-ft)
• Re-check all fasteners after 50-100 miles of driving
• Verify no unusual tire wear patterns develop after 500 miles

More procedures for this vehicle