drivetrain

Wheel Studs

for 2012 Mercedes-Benz S65 AMG 6.0L V12 BiTurbo M275 · RWD

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

1.1 h

Tools

Steps

✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

Replace damaged or worn wheel studs on the 2007-2013 Mercedes-Benz S65 AMG by removing the hub assembly, pressing out old studs, and installing new ones.

Warnings

⚠️Vehicle must be securely supported on jack stands rated for the weight of the S65 AMG (approximately 5,000 lbs). Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.

⚠Do not drive the vehicle with damaged or missing wheel studs. This creates a severe safety hazard and can cause wheel detachment.

ℹ️This procedure assumes front or rear wheel stud replacement. For some wheel positions, brake caliper removal may be required for hub access.

Tools required

Floor jack and jack standsEssential

Torque wrench (10-200 Nm range)Essential

Wheel chocksEssential

Hammer (dead blow or brass)Essential

Wheel stud press tool or C-clampEssential

Socket set (17mm, 19mm, 21mm)Essential

Breaker barEssential

Wire brush

Anti-seize compound

Penetrating oil

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Parts

Wheel stud × 1 — Use OEM specification

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

Park vehicle on level surface and engage parking brake
Place wheel chocks behind wheels opposite the corner being serviced
Loosen wheel lug nuts approximately 1/2 turn while vehicle is still on ground
Raise vehicle with floor jack at designated jacking point for the corner being serviced
Support vehicle securely on jack stands at proper support points
Remove wheel completely

Procedure

1
Access the damaged wheel stud
Inspect the wheel hub to locate the damaged stud. Rotate the hub if necessary to position the damaged stud for easiest access. If the stud is on the rear hub and brake caliper blocks access, remove the caliper mounting bolts and secure the caliper with wire or a bungee cord without straining the brake hose.
2
Remove the damaged wheel stud
Using a hammer, strike the damaged stud from behind the hub flange to drive it out through the front. The stud should press out of the hub bore. If the stud is severely damaged or seized, you may need to grind off the stud head and drive the remainder through with a punch. Be careful not to damage the hub bore during removal.
⚠Wear safety glasses when hammering or grinding studs. Metal fragments can cause serious eye injury.
3
Clean the hub bore
Use a wire brush to clean the wheel stud bore in the hub completely. Remove any rust, corrosion, or debris. The bore must be clean to ensure the new stud seats properly. Inspect the bore for damage; if the bore is wallowed out or damaged, the hub may need replacement.
4
Position the new wheel stud
Insert the new wheel stud into the hub bore from the back side (brake rotor side). The stud should slide in until the serrated shoulder contacts the back of the hub flange. Ensure the stud is fully seated in the bore and aligned straight.
5
Press the wheel stud into place
Using a wheel stud press tool or C-clamp with appropriate washers and a lug nut, pull the stud through the hub bore until the serrated shoulder is fully seated against the back of the hub flange. Thread a lug nut onto the stud from the front, place a stack of washers between the lug nut and hub face, then tighten the lug nut to draw the stud in. Continue until the stud shoulder is completely flush with no gap visible.
⚠Do not over-tighten when pulling the stud through. Stop immediately when the shoulder seats flush to avoid damaging the hub or stud.
6
Verify stud installation
Remove the installation lug nut and washers. Inspect the stud from both sides to confirm the serrated shoulder is completely seated against the hub flange with no gap. The stud should not rotate by hand. Attempt to push the stud back through from the front; it should be solidly locked in place.
7
Reinstall brake caliper if removed
If the brake caliper was removed for access, position it back over the brake rotor and thread in the mounting bolts. Torque the mounting bolts to specification. Ensure the brake hose is not twisted or strained.
Torque spec
Mounting Bolts37 Nm (27 lb-ft)
8
Reinstall the wheel
Clean the wheel mounting surface on the hub and the back of the wheel. Position the wheel onto the hub, ensuring it seats flat against the hub face. Thread all lug nuts on by hand to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern snug but do not torque yet.
9
Lower vehicle and torque lug nuts
Remove jack stands and carefully lower the vehicle until the wheel contacts the ground but the suspension is not fully loaded. Torque all wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. Lower the vehicle completely and verify final torque on all lug nuts in star pattern.
Torque spec
Wheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)

Reassembly

Ensure all lug nuts are torqued to specification in proper star pattern sequence
If brake caliper was removed, pump brake pedal several times to restore proper brake pad position before driving
Double-check that no tools or parts were left in the wheel well area

Verification

Test drive the vehicle at low speed and verify no vibration or unusual noise from the repaired wheel
After driving 50-100 miles, re-torque wheel lug nuts to specification to confirm proper seating
Visually inspect the wheel stud area to ensure the stud remains properly seated with no movement or looseness