Brake Caliper - Front

This procedure covers removal and replacement of the front brake caliper on a 2007 Ram 3500 with 5.9L Cummins diesel engine, including bleeding the hydraulic system.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake caliper (left or right as needed) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Threadlocker (medium strength) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent

Fluids

• DOT 3 brake fluid — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, firm surface and engage parking brake
2. Chock rear wheels securely on both sides
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is still on the ground (do not remove)
4. Raise front of vehicle using floor jack at manufacturer-specified lift points on frame
5. Support vehicle securely on jack stands rated for at least 10,000 lbs, placed under frame rails
6. Remove front wheel completely
7. Verify brake fluid reservoir cap is accessible under hood and reservoir level is visible
8. Have brake fluid catch pan and rags ready to contain spills

Procedure

1. 1

   Prepare brake system and relieve pressure
   Do NOT press the brake pedal during caliper removal or the piston will extend and complicate installation. Open the hood and locate the brake fluid reservoir on the master cylinder. Note the current fluid level. Place rags around the work area to catch any brake fluid spillage.
2. 2

   Support caliper weight
   Before disconnecting anything, prepare a wire hook or bungee cord to support the old caliper once removed. The caliper should never hang by its brake hose. Position your catch pan under the brake caliper area to catch brake fluid.
3. 3

   Disconnect brake line from caliper
   Locate the brake line banjo bolt connection on the rear of the caliper. Using the correct wrench (verify size against the actual banjo bolt head — do not assume 13mm), loosen and remove the banjo bolt. Be prepared for brake fluid to drain out. Remove the bolt completely along with the two copper crush washers (one on each side of the banjo fitting). Discard the old copper washers - they must not be reused. Immediately plug the brake line opening with a rubber cap or clean rag to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.
   ⚠Brake fluid will begin flowing immediately when the banjo bolt is loosened. Have your catch pan positioned correctly.
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove caliper bracket bolts
   Locate the two large caliper bracket bolts that secure the entire caliper assembly to the steering knuckle. These are accessed from the rear of the caliper bracket. Using an 18mm wrench or socket, remove both caliper bracket bolts completely. These bolts require verification against factory service specification for the 2007 Ram 3500 front caliper mounting bolts (heavy-duty applications are typically much higher than light-duty, often on the order of 250 lb-ft) and may require significant force to loosen. Once removed, inspect the bolt threads for damage and note whether threadlocker was present.
   ℹ️These bolts are very tight. Ensure your wrench is fully seated to avoid rounding the bolt heads.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove caliper assembly
   With both bracket bolts removed, carefully slide the entire caliper and bracket assembly away from the rotor. The assembly is heavy (approximately 15-20 lbs). Support it with your wire or bungee cord, hanging it from the suspension or frame. Do not let it hang by the brake hose. Inspect the brake pads that came out with the caliper - if they are in good condition and you plan to reuse them, keep them organized by position.
6. 6

   Prepare new caliper
   Remove the new caliper from its packaging. Verify it matches the old caliper (left vs right side, piston configuration). If the new caliper came with a piston protector or shipping block, remove it. Check that the caliper bracket bolt holes are clean and free of debris. If reusing brake pads, transfer them to the new caliper bracket now. If installing new pads, install them into the new caliper bracket with appropriate anti-squeal shims.
7. 7

   Apply threadlocker and install caliper bracket bolts
   Apply a small amount of medium-strength threadlocker (Loctite 243 or equivalent) to the threads of both caliper bracket bolts. Position the new caliper assembly over the rotor and align the bracket bolt holes with the steering knuckle. Start both bracket bolts by hand to ensure proper thread engagement. Using your torque wrench and 18mm socket, tighten both caliper bracket bolts to the factory-specified torque for the 2007 Ram 3500 front caliper mounting bolts (verify against service manual — heavy-duty spec is typically much higher than 88 lb-ft) in a cross pattern.
   ⚠️These bolts are CRITICAL to brake safety. Improper torque can result in caliper detachment and complete brake failure. Use a calibrated torque wrench.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bracket Bolts120 Nm (88 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Connect brake line with new washers
   Remove the plug or rag from the brake line. Take two NEW copper crush washers and place one on each side of the banjo fitting (one against the caliper body, one on the outside). Insert the banjo bolt through the washers and banjo fitting, then thread it into the caliper by hand. Using a 13mm wrench and your torque wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to exactly 25 Nm (18 lb-ft). Do not overtighten as this can damage the sealing surface.
   ⚠️New copper washers are CRITICAL. Reusing old washers will cause brake fluid leaks and potential brake failure.
   ⚠Overtightening the banjo bolt can strip threads or crack the caliper body. Use precise torque.
   Torque spec

   Brake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Bleed the brake caliper
   Locate the bleeder screw on top of the caliper (usually requires an 8mm wrench). Attach clear vinyl tubing to the bleeder screw nipple and route the other end into a catch container. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal slowly 3-4 times and hold pressure on the pedal. With pressure held, open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Fluid and air will flow through the tube. When flow stops, close the bleeder screw before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the tubing and only clean fluid flows. Check the master cylinder reservoir frequently and keep it topped off with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid - never let it run dry. When bleeding is complete, tighten the bleeder screw to 10 Nm (7 lb-ft).
   ⚠️If the master cylinder reservoir runs dry during bleeding, air will enter the system and you will need to bleed the entire brake system, not just this caliper.
   ⚠Do not overtighten the bleeder screw as it can break off, requiring caliper replacement.
   Torque spec

   Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Verify brake pedal feel
    With the bleeder closed and system sealed, have your assistant pump the brake pedal multiple times. The pedal should become firm and not sink to the floor. If the pedal remains soft or spongy, additional bleeding is required. Continue bleeding until a firm pedal is achieved. Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid and install the reservoir cap.
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Position the wheel back onto the hub and start all lug nuts by hand. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern until snug but not fully torqued. Carefully raise the vehicle slightly with the floor jack, remove the jack stands, and lower the vehicle completely to the ground. With the vehicle weight on the wheel, torque the lug nuts to manufacturer specification (verify against factory spec for the 2007 Ram 3500 — heavy-duty spec is typically around 145 lb-ft) in a star pattern.

Reassembly

1. Double-check that all brake line connections are tight and properly torqued
2. Verify the brake fluid reservoir is filled to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid
3. Ensure no tools or parts are left in the wheel well or under the vehicle
4. Visually inspect for any brake fluid leaks around the banjo bolt connection

Verification

• With the engine off, pump the brake pedal at least 10 times. The pedal should feel firm and consistent, not spongy or sinking
• Start the engine (power brakes will cause pedal to drop slightly - this is normal)
• With the engine running, apply firm brake pressure and verify the pedal does not slowly sink
• Inspect all connections around the new caliper for any signs of brake fluid leakage
• Perform a low-speed test drive (under 10 mph) in a safe area, verifying normal brake function and no pulling to one side
• After test drive, re-inspect all connections for leaks while the system is hot
• Before returning to normal driving, perform several moderate brake applications from 25-30 mph to seat the pads
• Check brake fluid level after test drive and top off if needed
• IMPORTANT: Brake pedal travel and feel may continue to improve over the first 50-100 miles as pads seat. If pedal feel worsens or becomes spongy, stop driving immediately and re-bleed the system

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