brakes
Brake Caliper - Rear
for 2007 Ram 3500 5.9L I6 Cummins · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.7 h
Tools
15
Steps
14
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear brake caliper on a 2007 Ram 3500 with 5.9L Cummins diesel engine, including proper bleeding and torque specifications.
Warnings
⚠️SAFETY-CRITICAL REPAIR: Brake system failure can result in death or serious injury. If you are uncertain about any step, have this work performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Use properly rated jack stands on solid, level ground. This is a heavy-duty truck requiring high-capacity equipment.
⚠️Brake fluid is highly toxic and damages paint. Avoid skin contact and immediately clean any spills. Do not reuse old brake fluid.
⚠️After brake work, pump the brake pedal until firm BEFORE attempting to move the vehicle. Test brakes at low speed in a safe area before normal driving.
⚠Do not allow brake calipers to hang by the brake hose. This can damage the hose internally and cause brake failure.
⚠Brake fluid absorbs moisture and must be from a sealed container. Contaminated fluid reduces braking performance.
ℹ️This procedure is for one rear caliper. Brake components should be serviced in axle pairs for balanced braking.
Tools required
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (10-150 Nm range)Essential
11mm flare nut wrench for brake lineEssential
10mm wrench for bleeder screwEssential
Brake fluid catch containerEssential
Brake bleeder kit or clear hoseEssential
C-clamp or brake caliper piston toolEssential
Brake cleanerEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Rear brake caliper × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality remanufactured unit
- Brake line banjo bolt copper washers × 2 — Two washers required per banjo connection
- Caliper mounting bolts (if corroded) × 2 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- DOT 3 brake fluid — 0.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground and place transmission in Park (automatic) or gear (manual)
- Engage parking brake firmly
- Place wheel chocks on front wheels on opposite side of repair
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn before raising vehicle
- Raise rear of vehicle using floor jack at approved lift point on frame
- Support vehicle on jack stands rated for at least 10,000 lbs placed under frame rails
- Remove wheel and tire assembly completely
- Clean brake caliper, bracket, and surrounding area with brake cleaner to prevent contamination
- Have brake fluid catch container positioned under work area
Procedure
- 1Relieve brake fluid pressureOpen the hood and locate the brake master cylinder reservoir. Remove the reservoir cap to relieve system pressure and prevent vacuum when opening the brake line. Place a clean shop towel over the reservoir to prevent contamination.⚠Keep dirt and debris away from the open reservoir. Any contamination in the brake system can cause component damage and brake failure.
- 2Disconnect brake line from caliperUsing a properly fitting box-end wrench or six-point socket on the banjo bolt, carefully loosen and remove the banjo bolt connecting the brake line to the caliper to prevent rounding the head. Damaged fittings can cause brake fluid leaks and system failure. Have the catch container ready as brake fluid will flow out. Remove and discard both copper crush washers from the banjo bolt. Plug the brake line opening with a rubber cap or clean lint-free cloth to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.⚠Use a flare nut wrench, not a standard wrench, to prevent rounding off the brake line fitting. Damaged fittings can cause brake fluid leaks and system failure.
- 3Remove caliper mounting boltsLocate the two caliper bracket mounting bolts on the rear of the caliper bracket (accessed from the back side of the axle). These are large bolts; verify the correct socket size against the factory service manual (typically larger than 13mm on this heavy-duty platform). Apply penetrating oil if bolts show corrosion. Using a 13mm socket and breaker bar if necessary, remove both caliper bracket bolts completely. These bolts secure the entire caliper assembly to the axle mounting bracket. These bolts are torqued to a high value (verify exact spec in the factory service manual) and may require significant force to remove.⚠These bolts are torqued to 74 lb-ft and may require significant force to remove. Ensure socket is fully engaged to prevent rounding.
- 4Remove caliper assemblyWith mounting bolts removed, carefully slide the entire caliper and bracket assembly off the brake rotor. The assembly includes the caliper, bracket, and brake pads. Keep the assembly together and set it aside on a clean surface. Inspect the brake rotor surface for excessive wear, scoring, or damage while it is accessible.
- 5Inspect and prepare mounting surfacesInspect the axle mounting surface where the caliper bracket attaches for rust, debris, or damage. Clean thoroughly with a wire brush and brake cleaner. Check the caliper bracket bolt threads on the axle for damage or excessive corrosion. Do not apply anti-seize to caliper bracket bolt threads, as it can reduce clamp load; use threadlocker only if specified in the factory service manual and torque to the exact spec.
- 6Prepare new caliper assemblyRemove the new or remanufactured caliper from its packaging. Verify it matches the old caliper design and mounting configuration. If the caliper came with protective shipping caps on the fluid inlet and bleeder screw, remove them now. Do not press the brake pads against the piston yet - this will be done during installation.
- 7Install new caliper assemblyPosition the new caliper and bracket assembly over the brake rotor, aligning the mounting holes with the threaded holes in the axle bracket. If needed, use a C-clamp to gently compress the caliper piston to provide clearance over the brake pads and rotor. Insert both caliper bracket bolts and hand-tighten. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the bolt threads if recommended.
- 8Torque caliper bracket boltsUsing a torque wrench and the correct size socket (verify against factory service manual), tighten the caliper bracket bolts to the specified torque value in a cross pattern. First, snug both bolts evenly, then torque to specification. Verify both bolts are properly seated and torqued.⚠️Caliper bracket bolts are CRITICAL fasteners. Incorrect torque can result in caliper detachment and complete brake failure. Verify torque wrench calibration.Torque specCaliper Bracket Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 9Connect brake line to caliperInstall NEW copper crush washers on both sides of the brake line banjo fitting (one washer on each side). Position the banjo fitting into the caliper inlet port. Insert the banjo bolt through the fitting and thread it into the caliper by hand. Ensure the brake line is positioned without kinks or tension.⚠️NEVER reuse old copper washers. Reused washers will not seal properly and will cause brake fluid leakage and system failure.
- 10Torque brake line banjo boltUsing a torque wrench and 11mm socket or wrench, tighten the banjo bolt to the specified torque value. Do not overtighten as this can damage the caliper casting or crush the washers excessively.⚠️Banjo bolt torque is CRITICAL. Overtightening can crack the caliper body; undertightening will cause fluid leaks. Both conditions result in brake failure.Torque specBrake Line Banjo Bolt25 Nm (18 lb-ft)
- 11Bleed brake caliperAttach a clear hose to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container partially filled with clean brake fluid of the type specified on the reservoir cap (verify DOT 3 vs DOT 4). Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/4 to 1/2 turn with a 10mm wrench. Fluid and air will flow out. Close the bleeder screw before the pedal reaches the floor. Repeat this process until fluid flows with no air bubbles. Check and refill the master cylinder reservoir frequently during bleeding - never let it run dry.⚠️If the master cylinder reservoir runs empty during bleeding, air will enter the system requiring complete system bleeding. This significantly extends repair time and complexity.
- 12Torque bleeder screwOnce bleeding is complete and fluid flows clear without bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw to specification using a torque wrench and 10mm wrench or socket. Do not overtighten as bleeder screws are easily damaged.⚠Bleeder screws are made of soft material and strip easily. Use correct size wrench and do not exceed specified torque.Torque specBleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
- 13Check brake fluid level and systemTop off the brake master cylinder reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. Reinstall the reservoir cap. Inspect all connections at the caliper for any signs of fluid leakage. Wipe down all areas with a clean cloth.
- 14Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the wheel and tire assembly onto the hub. Thread all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to snug. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground. Torque lug nuts to specification in a star pattern (verify exact spec for your wheel configuration in the factory service manual; typically around 145 lb-ft for this heavy-duty truck). Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Release parking brake.
Reassembly
- Ensure all tools and equipment are removed from under the vehicle
- Verify brake master cylinder reservoir is filled to proper level with clean DOT 3 brake fluid
- Double-check all fasteners are torqued to specification
- Inspect the ground under the vehicle for any brake fluid leaks
Verification
- With engine off, pump brake pedal repeatedly until pedal is firm and maintains pressure. Pedal should not sink to floor
- Start engine and verify brake pedal remains firm with power assist engaged
- With vehicle still stationary, apply firm brake pressure and visually inspect all caliper connections for leaks
- Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area (5-10 mph) to verify proper brake function before normal driving
- Drive vehicle at moderate speed and apply brakes firmly to verify even braking without pulling to one side
- After first 50 miles, re-check all caliper mounting bolts and brake line connections for tightness
- Check brake fluid level after test drive and top off if necessary
- If brake pedal feels soft, spongy, or travels too far, or if vehicle pulls to one side during braking, STOP driving immediately and re-bleed system or seek professional service
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0504Brake Switch A/B CorrelationP0555Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0556Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0571Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit MalfunctionP0572Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit LowP0588Cruise Control/Brake Switch B Circuit HighP0703Torque Converter/Brake Switch B CircuitP0719Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit LowP0723Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit IntermittentP0724Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit HighB0422Brake Warning Lamp CircuitC0085Brake Pressure Sensor Circuit
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