brakes
Brake Hose - Rear
for 2007 Ram 3500 5.9L I6 Cummins · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
54 min
Tools
13
Steps
13
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the rear brake hose on a 2007 Ram 3500 with 5.9L Cummins diesel engine, including brake bleeding and system verification.
Warnings
⚠️Brake system failure can result in loss of braking ability, causing serious injury or death. If you are uncertain about any step, have this service performed by a qualified technician.
⚠️Never reuse old copper crush washers on banjo bolts. Failure to replace can cause brake fluid leaks and complete brake failure.
⚠️Do NOT drive the vehicle until proper brake pedal feel is restored and all brake lines are verified leak-free.
⚠Brake fluid is corrosive to paint and harmful if ingested. Immediately flush any brake fluid from painted surfaces with water. Keep away from eyes and skin.
⚠Use only DOT 3 brake fluid from a sealed container. Contaminated or incorrect brake fluid can cause complete brake system failure.
ℹ️This procedure covers one rear brake hose. Inspect the opposite side hose and consider replacing both if vehicle has high mileage or visible deterioration.
Tools required
Wheel chocksEssential
11mm flare nut wrenchEssential
13mm flare nut wrenchEssential
10mm wrench or socketEssential
Catch container for brake fluidEssential
Torque wrench (80-150 ft-lbs range)Essential
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Parts
- Rear brake hose × 1 — Use OEM specification or DOT-approved replacement
- Brake hose retaining clips (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Copper crush washers for banjo bolt × 2 — Use OEM specification
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- DOT 3 brake fluid — 1 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid ground and place transmission in Park (automatic) or 1st gear (manual)
- Place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while wheel is still on ground
- Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at rear axle differential housing
- Support vehicle securely on jack stands rated for vehicle weight at frame rails
- Remove rear wheel completely
- Inspect brake hose for bulging, cracking, chafing, or fluid seepage to confirm replacement is necessary
- Have brake bleeding assistant available or prepare for one-person bleeding method
Procedure
- 1Prepare brake line connectionsApply penetrating oil to the hard brake line fitting at the frame bracket and the banjo bolt at the brake caliper. Allow 5-10 minutes to penetrate. Clean threads with wire brush to prevent cross-threading during removal.
- 2Remove brake hose retaining clip at frame bracketLocate the brake hose mounting bracket on the frame rail where the flexible hose connects to the hard brake line. Use pliers to remove the retaining clip or horseshoe clip that secures the hose to the bracket. Note the orientation for reinstallation.
- 3Disconnect hard brake line from flexible hoseUsing an 11mm flare nut wrench (verify size for your configuration), carefully loosen the steel hard brake line tube nut fitting at the frame bracket. Hold the hose fitting steady with another wrench if needed to prevent twisting the hose. Once loose, unthread by hand and allow brake fluid to drain into catch container. Minimize fluid loss by working quickly. Use a flare nut wrench, not a standard open-end wrench, to prevent rounding off the steel tube nut fitting. A rounded fitting may require brake line replacement.⚠Use a flare nut wrench, not a standard open-end wrench, to prevent rounding off the soft brass fitting. A rounded fitting may require brake line replacement.
- 4Remove banjo bolt at brake caliperLocate the connection where the flexible brake hose meets the rear axle hard line/junction bracket. On rear drum-brake configurations this is a threaded tube-nut connection, not a banjo bolt; verify your specific brake configuration before proceeding. If your configuration uses a banjo fitting, note the copper crush washers on each side - these MUST be replaced and should not be reused. If it uses a threaded tube-nut junction, no crush washers are present. Remove the old hose and allow remaining fluid to drain. Immediately plug the caliper port with a clean rag or brake bleeder cap to prevent contamination.⚠️The copper crush washers MUST be replaced with new ones during installation. Reusing old washers will cause brake fluid leaks and potential brake failure.
- 5Remove old brake hose completelyExtract the brake hose from the frame bracket mounting point. Inspect the bracket for damage or excessive rust. Clean the mounting area with wire brush if needed. Discard the old hose and crush washers.
- 6Install new brake hose at caliperPosition a NEW copper crush washer on each side of the banjo fitting on the new brake hose. Insert the banjo bolt through the fitting and thread into the brake caliper port. Ensure the hose is not twisted and will route naturally to the frame bracket without kinking. Hand-tighten the banjo bolt initially, then torque to the factory-specified value (verify in the 2007 Ram 3500 service manual before tightening; do not guess brake fastener torque).
- 7Route and secure hose at frame bracketRoute the new brake hose through the frame bracket mounting point. Ensure the hose has proper slack and is not stretched, twisted, or contacting any suspension or chassis components through full suspension travel. The hose should have a slight curve without sharp bends. Install the retaining clip to secure the hose to the bracket.
- 8Connect hard brake line to flexible hoseThread the hard brake line fitting into the flexible hose end at the frame bracket. Hand-tighten first to ensure threads engage properly without cross-threading. Using the flare nut wrench, tighten the fitting to the factory-specified torque (verify in the 2007 Ram 3500 service manual); avoid over-tightening which can damage the fitting.
- 9Verify hose installation and clearanceTurn the steering wheel through full lock-to-lock motion (if replacing front hose) or compress and extend suspension by pushing down on vehicle (for rear hose) to verify the new hose does not contact any components, is not stretched tight, and has adequate clearance. Adjust routing if necessary before bleeding.
- 10Bleed rear brake caliperFill the brake master cylinder reservoir with fresh brake fluid meeting the specification on the reservoir cap (typically DOT 3, verify DOT 3 vs DOT 4 for your vehicle) from a sealed container. Locate the brake bleeder valve on the rear caliper (typically 10mm). Attach clear plastic tubing to the bleeder valve and submerge the other end in a container with 2 inches of clean brake fluid. Have assistant pump brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open bleeder valve 1/2 turn and watch for fluid and air bubbles. Close valve before pedal reaches floor. Repeat until no air bubbles appear and only clean fluid flows. Top off master cylinder frequently during bleeding process.⚠️Never allow the master cylinder reservoir to run dry during bleeding. Air entering the master cylinder requires extensive bleeding and can introduce air into the ABS system.
- 11Bleed opposite rear brakeRepeat the bleeding procedure on the opposite rear brake caliper to remove any air that may have migrated through the system. This ensures complete air removal and balanced brake performance.
- 12Check all connections for leaksWith assistant maintaining firm pressure on brake pedal, carefully inspect all brake line connections including the frame bracket fitting and caliper banjo bolt. Look for any seepage or dripping of brake fluid. If any leaks are present, immediately release pedal pressure and correct the issue before proceeding.
- 13Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleReinstall the rear wheel(s) - note the Ram 3500 has dual rear wheels; ensure proper seating - and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern. Lower vehicle until tire just contacts ground. Torque lug nuts to the factory specification (typically 145 ft-lbs for the 2007 Ram 3500; verify for your wheel configuration) in a star pattern. Fully lower vehicle and remove jack stands. Remove wheel chocks.
Reassembly
- Ensure master cylinder reservoir is filled to MAX line with DOT 3 brake fluid
- Double-check all brake line fittings are tight and secure
- Clean any spilled brake fluid from components immediately to prevent paint damage
- Verify the brake hose retaining clip is properly seated in the frame bracket
Verification
- With vehicle still parked and engine off, pump brake pedal several times - it should build firm pressure and not sink to the floor
- Start engine and verify brake pedal remains firm with power assist active
- Perform a low-speed test drive in a safe area - brake pedal should feel normal with no sponginess or excessive travel
- Test brakes at 5-10 mph to verify proper braking function before returning to normal driving
- After test drive, recheck all connections for leaks with vehicle parked
- Monitor brake pedal feel for the next several days and recheck fluid level after 50-100 miles
- If brake pedal feels soft, spongy, or sinks, DO NOT DRIVE - repeat bleeding procedure or seek professional service
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0504Brake Switch A/B CorrelationP0555Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0556Brake Booster Pressure Sensor Circuit Range/PerformanceP0571Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit MalfunctionP0572Cruise Control/Brake Switch A Circuit LowP0588Cruise Control/Brake Switch B Circuit HighP0703Torque Converter/Brake Switch B CircuitP0719Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit LowP0723Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit IntermittentP0724Torque Converter/Brake Switch B Circuit HighB0422Brake Warning Lamp CircuitC0085Brake Pressure Sensor Circuit
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →