Brake Pads and Rotors - Front

This procedure replaces the front brake pads and rotors on a 2007 Ram 3500 with 5.9L Cummins diesel engine and 4WD, restoring proper braking performance.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake pad set (semi-metallic or ceramic) × 1 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Front brake rotors (pair) × 2 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
• Brake hardware kit (clips and shims) × 1 — Often included with brake pads

Fluids

• DOT 3 brake fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and place transmission in Park (automatic) or 1st gear (manual)
2. Engage parking brake fully
3. Chock rear wheels securely on both sides
4. Using turkey baster or fluid transfer pump, remove approximately half the brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir to prevent overflow when compressing caliper pistons. Store removed fluid in clean container for disposal - do not reuse
5. Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is still on ground (22mm socket)
6. Lift front of vehicle using floor jack at manufacturer-specified front jacking point on frame
7. Place jack stands under frame rails behind front axle. Lower vehicle onto stands and verify stability
8. Remove both front wheels completely and set aside

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect brake system condition
   With wheels removed, visually inspect brake lines, hoses, calipers, and surrounding components for leaks, damage, or excessive corrosion. Check that brake hoses are not cracked or bulging. Inspect caliper slide pins for seized condition. If any abnormalities are found, address them before proceeding with pad and rotor replacement.
2. 2

   Remove caliper slide bolts
   Locate the two caliper slide bolts on the back side of the caliper (18mm). These bolts secure the caliper to the bracket. Using an 18mm socket, remove the lower slide bolt first, then the upper slide bolt. Support the caliper with one hand as you remove the second bolt to prevent it from falling. Note: On this vehicle, the slide bolts thread into the caliper bracket, not the caliper itself.
3. 3

   Remove and support caliper
   Carefully pivot the caliper up and off the rotor and brake pads. Do NOT allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose, as this can damage the hose internally. Use a piece of wire, bungee cord, or mechanic's wire to suspend the caliper from the suspension or frame. Ensure the brake hose has no tension or kinks.
4. 4

   Remove old brake pads and hardware
   With caliper removed, the brake pads will either stay in the caliper bracket or come off with the caliper. Remove both inboard and outboard pads. Remove and discard the old pad retention clips, anti-rattle springs, and shims from the caliper bracket. Note the orientation of all hardware for proper installation of new components.
5. 5

   Remove caliper bracket
   Remove the two caliper bracket mounting bolts (verify socket size against service manual) that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle/hub assembly. These bolts are typically very tight. The bracket may require tapping with a rubber mallet to break it free from the knuckle after bolts are removed. Set bracket aside on clean surface.
6. 6

   Remove old rotor
   Pull the old rotor straight off the wheel hub. The rotor may be stuck due to rust or corrosion. If stuck, thread two 8mm x 1.25 bolts into the threaded holes in the rotor face (if equipped) and tighten evenly to push rotor off hub. Alternatively, strike the rotor from behind with a rubber mallet between the wheel studs. Never strike the rotor face or friction surface.
7. 7

   Clean hub and prepare mounting surface
   Using a wire brush, thoroughly clean the wheel hub face, removing all rust, corrosion, and debris. The hub surface must be clean and flat to prevent rotor runout. Clean the wheel studs and threads. Spray the hub surface with brake cleaner and wipe dry. Apply a very thin coat of copper anti-seize to the hub face (avoid getting anti-seize on wheel studs or rotor surfaces).
8. 8

   Install new rotors
   Remove any protective coating from new rotors using brake cleaner and clean shop towels. Wipe both sides of rotor friction surfaces thoroughly - shipping oil must be completely removed. Slide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the mounting holes. If rotor has a set screw hole, install a temporary lug nut (hand tight) to hold rotor in place during reassembly.
9. 9

   Clean and reinstall caliper bracket
   Clean the caliper bracket thoroughly with brake cleaner and wire brush, paying special attention to the pad slide areas where the brake pad ears contact the bracket. Apply a thin layer of high-temperature brake caliper grease to the pad slide contact points on the bracket (do NOT use standard grease). Position the bracket over the rotor and align with mounting holes in knuckle. Install both bracket bolts and torque to manufacturer specification (verify exact torque with service manual as torque spec is not available in database).
10. 10

    Install new brake hardware and pads
    Install new pad retention clips and anti-rattle springs into the caliper bracket according to the orientation noted during disassembly. The clips should snap firmly into place. Install the new inboard and outboard brake pads into the bracket, ensuring they are properly seated in the retention clips. The pad with the wear indicator (if equipped) typically goes on the inboard position. Verify pads move freely in the bracket.
11. 11

    Compress caliper piston
    Using a C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool, slowly compress the caliper piston(s) fully into the caliper bore. Place the clamp against the back of the caliper body and against the old brake pad or a block of wood on the piston face. Compress slowly to allow fluid to return to the master cylinder. Monitor the master cylinder reservoir - it should rise but not overflow. If resistance is excessive or piston will not compress, check for seized piston or closed bleeder valve.
    ⚠Compress piston slowly. Rapid compression can damage master cylinder internal seals. Stop if fluid begins to overflow from reservoir.
12. 12

    Prepare caliper slide pins
    Remove the caliper slide bolts from the bracket. Wipe the slide bolt shafts clean with a rag. Inspect the rubber boots on the slide pins for tears or damage - replace if compromised. Apply a thin coat of high-temperature silicone-based brake caliper grease to the smooth portion of each slide bolt shaft (not the threaded area). Ensure slide pins move freely in their bores.
13. 13

    Reinstall caliper
    Remove the wire or support holding the caliper. Carefully position the caliper over the new brake pads and rotor. Align the caliper slide bolt holes with the bracket. Install both slide bolts (with grease applied) and thread them in by hand first to avoid cross-threading. Tighten the slide bolts to manufacturer specification (typically 24-30 ft-lbs for slide bolts, but verify with service manual as torque spec is not available in database). Ensure caliper moves freely on slide pins.
14. 14

    Install wheels and lower vehicle
    Remove temporary lug nut if used to hold rotor. Mount the wheel onto the hub, aligning all lug nut holes. Install all lug nuts by hand, threading them in at least 3-4 turns. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern using the lug wrench, but do not fully torque yet. Repeat entire procedure on opposite side front brake if replacing both sides (recommended). Raise vehicle slightly with floor jack, remove jack stands, and lower vehicle to ground. With full weight on wheels, torque lug nuts to manufacturer specification (typically approximately 145 ft-lbs for this truck, but verify with service manual) in a star pattern using torque wrench.
15. 15

    Restore brake pedal and check fluid
    With vehicle still in Park and parking brake engaged, pump the brake pedal slowly 10-15 times until it becomes firm. This restores hydraulic pressure and seats the caliper pistons against the new pads. The pedal should feel firm by the 5th-7th pump. Check the master cylinder reservoir and top off with fresh brake fluid meeting the specification on the reservoir cap (DOT 3 or DOT 4 per service manual) to the MAX line if needed. Install reservoir cap securely.
    ⚠️DO NOT attempt to drive the vehicle until a firm brake pedal is achieved. If pedal remains soft after pumping, there may be air in the system or a hydraulic leak. Bleed brakes and inspect system before operating vehicle.

Reassembly

1. Ensure all caliper slide bolts and bracket mounting bolts are properly torqued per manufacturer specifications
2. Verify no tools, rags, or parts were left in wheel well or around brake components
3. Confirm brake hoses have no kinks or tension and are properly routed away from moving suspension components
4. Double-check that wheel lug nuts are torqued to 135 ft-lbs in star pattern

Verification

• With engine running, pump brake pedal several times and verify it feels firm and does not sink to floor when held under pressure for 10 seconds
• Check master cylinder fluid level - should be at MAX line with no visible leaks around reservoir or connections
• Test drive vehicle in safe area at low speeds (under 15 mph) and verify brakes engage smoothly without pulling to one side
• Perform several moderate brake applications to begin bedding process - avoid hard stops for first 200 miles
• After test drive, visually inspect wheels for any signs of brake fluid leakage around calipers and hoses
• Listen for any unusual noises during braking - new pads may squeal lightly during initial bedding period
• After 50-100 miles of driving, re-torque wheel lug nuts to 135 ft-lbs and recheck brake fluid level
• Bedding procedure: For first 200 miles, avoid hard braking when possible. Perform 6-10 moderate stops from 40 mph to 15 mph with 30 seconds between stops to properly bed pads to rotors

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