Brake Rotors - Rear Pair

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the rear brake rotors on a 2007 Ram 3500 with 4WD and the 5.9L Cummins diesel engine.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear brake rotors (pair) × 2 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket

Fluids

• DOT 3 brake fluid — 0.25 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and place wheel chocks in front of front wheels
2. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is on ground (do not remove)
3. Check brake fluid reservoir level and mark current level. If near full, remove some fluid with a turkey baster to prevent overflow
4. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at rear axle differential housing
5. Place jack stands under frame rails behind rear axle
6. Remove rear wheels completely and set aside
7. Spray all caliper bracket bolts and rotor set screws (if present) with penetrating oil and allow to soak

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper
   Locate the two caliper slide pin bolts on the back side of the caliper. These are typically 13mm or 15mm bolts. Remove both caliper slide pin bolts completely. Carefully lift the caliper assembly off the rotor and bracket. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose. Support the caliper using a caliper hanger, bungee cord, or wire attached to the suspension or frame. Ensure there is no tension on the rubber brake hose.
2. 2

   Compress brake caliper piston
   Before removing the caliper bracket, compress the caliper piston fully into its bore using a large C-clamp or brake caliper piston tool. Place the clamp against the back of the caliper body and the face of the piston (or against an old brake pad). Slowly compress the piston until it is fully retracted. This creates clearance for the new thicker rotors and makes reassembly easier. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir during this process to ensure it does not overflow.
3. 3

   Remove caliper bracket
   Locate the two large caliper bracket mounting bolts that attach the bracket to the axle flange or backing plate. These are large bolts (verify head size, commonly around 21mm) and are torqued very tight. Use a breaker bar and appropriate socket to remove both bolts. The bracket will come free with the brake pads still in place. Set the bracket assembly aside in a clean area.
4. 4

   Remove rotor retaining hardware
   If present, remove any Phillips head or Torx rotor set screws from the face of the rotor. These screws are often corroded and may require an impact driver to remove. If the screw strips or breaks, it can be drilled out as it is not required for reassembly. Note that some rotors may not have retaining screws.
5. 5

   Remove old rotor
   Pull the rotor straight off the wheel hub studs. The rotor may be seized to the hub due to corrosion. If stuck, apply penetrating oil around the center hub area and let soak. Use a dead blow hammer or rubber mallet to strike the rotor face (between the cooling vanes) while working around the rotor circumference. Do not strike the friction surface directly with a metal hammer. For severely stuck rotors, thread bolts into the threaded holes on the rotor face (if equipped) to press the rotor off the hub.
6. 6

   Clean hub surface
   With the rotor removed, thoroughly clean the hub mounting surface using a wire brush. Remove all rust, corrosion, and debris from the flat hub face where the rotor seats. Clean the wheel studs as well. Use brake parts cleaner to remove any remaining contamination. A clean, smooth hub surface is critical for proper rotor seating and prevents runout issues.
7. 7

   Install new rotor
   Remove any protective coating from the new rotor using brake parts cleaner on both sides. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize compound to the hub surface (not the rotor friction surfaces). Slide the new rotor onto the hub, aligning the holes with the wheel studs. Push the rotor fully against the hub face. If equipped with rotor set screws, thread them in and tighten moderately (do not over-torque as they are only for assembly purposes).
8. 8

   Reinstall caliper bracket
   Position the caliper bracket back onto the axle flange or backing plate. Install both bracket mounting bolts and hand-tighten. Torque both bracket bolts to specification using a torque wrench. Since no verified torque specification is provided in the database, DO NOT guess. Consult a factory service manual for the exact caliper bracket bolt torque before final tightening. Verify the bracket is secure and does not move.
9. 9

   Inspect and clean brake pads
   Inspect the brake pads still in the bracket for wear. If pads are worn below 3mm thickness or unevenly worn, replace them as a complete axle set (not just one side). Clean the brake pad backing plates and caliper bracket contact points with a wire brush. Apply a thin layer of brake lubricant to the pad backing plate contact points and caliper slide pins if they were removed.
10. 10

    Reinstall brake caliper
    Remove the caliper from its support and position it over the new rotor and brake pads. Align the caliper slide pin bolt holes with the bracket. Install both slide pin bolts and tighten to specification using a torque wrench. Since no torque specification is provided in the database, use a torque value of 24-30 ft-lbs as typical for caliper slide pins, or consult a factory service manual. Ensure caliper moves freely on slide pins.
11. 11

    Repeat for opposite side
    Repeat steps 1 through 10 for the opposite rear wheel to replace the second rotor. Always replace brake rotors in pairs on the same axle to maintain balanced braking performance.
12. 12

    Reinstall wheels
    Reinstall the rear wheels, threading all lug nuts by hand to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to snug but not final torque. Lower the vehicle off the jack stands until the tires just contact the ground but most weight is still on the stands.
13. 13

    Torque wheel lug nuts and final checks
    With wheels on the ground, torque all lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. For the 2007 Ram 3500, lug nut torque is high on this platform (SRW approximately 145 ft-lbs; DRW models higher, often 145-200 ft-lbs depending on configuration). Verify the exact value in the owner's manual or FSM for your specific SRW/DRW wheel type before final torque. Fully lower the vehicle and remove jack stands. Double-check all lug nuts are properly torqued.

Reassembly

1. Always torque lug nuts in a star pattern to prevent warping rotors
2. Ensure brake caliper hoses are not twisted or kinked after reassembly
3. Verify caliper slide pins are properly lubricated and calipers move freely

Verification

• Check brake fluid level in reservoir and top off to MAX line with DOT 3 brake fluid if needed
• Pump brake pedal several times until pedal feels firm and returns to normal height before driving
• Start engine and pump brakes again, pedal should remain firm
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area to verify proper brake function before normal driving
• During first 200-300 miles, avoid hard braking to allow proper bedding of new rotors with brake pads
• Listen for any unusual noises, vibrations, or pulling during braking and address immediately if present
• After first 50-100 miles, re-check and re-torque wheel lug nuts to specification
• If brake pedal is soft, spongy, or travels further than normal, the system may require bleeding - seek professional service immediately

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