transmission

Clutch Cable

for 2007 Ram 3500 5.9L I6 Cummins · 4WD

Difficulty

Moderate

Time

1.7 h

Tools

Steps

🔍Draft — verification in progress. This procedure was built from OLP's spec database on August 20, 2026 and is queued for line-by-line review by Chris Hackleman — master technicians with 20+ years each. That review typically completes within 3 days of generation, and this banner changes to a verified badge the moment it does. Until then, cross-check every torque value and fluid capacity against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. If something looks off, report it below — a real person reads every report.

Replace the clutch cable connecting the clutch pedal to the clutch fork on a 2007 Ram 3500 with manual transmission and 5.9L Cummins diesel engine.

Warnings

⚠Ensure vehicle is in neutral with parking brake fully engaged before working under dash or near transmission

⚠The clutch cable is under spring tension at the clutch fork - release tension carefully to avoid injury

ℹ️Apply penetrating lubricant to cable adjustment nuts and mounting hardware several hours before starting if vehicle is exposed to road salt or corrosion

Tools required

10mm socket and ratchetEssential

13mm socket and ratchetEssential

15mm wrenchEssential

Needle nose pliersEssential

Flathead screwdriverEssential

Flashlight or work lightEssential

Wire brush

Penetrating lubricant

Mechanic's gloves

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

Clutch cable assembly × 1 — Use OEM specification
Cable retaining clips (if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
Place transmission in neutral
Disconnect negative battery cable to prevent accidental starter engagement
Allow engine to cool completely if recently operated
Gather all tools and new clutch cable before starting

Procedure

1
Access clutch pedal assembly
Working inside the cab, remove the driver's side lower dash panel by removing the plastic retaining screws using a 10mm socket. This provides access to the upper clutch cable attachment point at the clutch pedal bracket.
2
Disconnect cable from clutch pedal
Locate the clutch cable end at the top of the clutch pedal. Use needle nose pliers to compress the cable retaining clip and slide it back along the cable. Rotate the cable end fitting to align with the slot in the pedal arm and remove the cable from the pedal. Note the routing of the cable through the firewall for reinstallation.
3
Remove firewall grommet retainer
From inside the cab, locate where the clutch cable passes through the firewall. Remove any retaining clips or plastic grommet keeper that secures the cable housing to the firewall using a flathead screwdriver. The cable will remain in the firewall until released from the transmission side.
4
Access bellhousing area
Working from under the vehicle, locate the clutch cable where it enters the bellhousing area on the driver's side of the transmission. Use a flashlight to identify the cable routing and the clutch fork lever connection point. Clean the area with a wire brush if heavily corroded.
5
Release cable tension at clutch fork
Locate the cable adjustment nuts on the threaded portion of the cable near the clutch fork. Use a 15mm wrench to loosen the jam nut, then back off the adjustment nut to create slack in the cable. This releases spring tension from the clutch fork and allows safe cable removal.
⚠Do not attempt to disconnect cable while under tension - the clutch fork spring pressure can cause sudden cable movement
6
Disconnect cable from clutch fork
With tension released, use needle nose pliers to remove the cable end retaining clip from the clutch fork lever. Pull the cable end ball socket off the fork stud. If the ball socket is corroded onto the stud, apply penetrating lubricant and carefully pry with a flathead screwdriver while pulling the cable.
7
Remove cable mounting bracket
Remove the cable housing mounting bracket from the bellhousing or frame mount using a 13mm socket. This bracket holds the threaded adjustment portion of the cable housing. Keep the bracket hardware for reinstallation with the new cable.
8
Extract cable from firewall
Working from under the vehicle, push the cable forward through the firewall grommet while an assistant inside the cab pulls the cable into the passenger compartment. Remove the complete cable assembly and inspect the firewall grommet for damage or deterioration.
9
Install new cable through firewall
Feed the new clutch cable through the firewall from inside the cab, ensuring it passes through the rubber grommet correctly. Route the cable along the same path as the original, avoiding any sharp edges or heat sources. Have an assistant guide the cable from underneath to prevent binding.
10
Secure firewall grommet
From inside the cab, ensure the firewall grommet is properly seated and install any retaining clips or grommet keepers. Verify the cable housing cannot pull back through the firewall.
11
Connect cable to clutch pedal
Align the cable end ball socket with the slot in the clutch pedal arm and snap it into place. Install the retaining clip using needle nose pliers to secure the cable to the pedal. Verify the connection is secure by pulling on the cable housing.
12
Install cable mounting bracket
Working under the vehicle, install the cable housing mounting bracket to the bellhousing or frame using the 13mm hardware. Thread the adjustment nut and jam nut onto the cable threads, leaving approximately 1 inch of exposed threads between the adjustment nut and the clutch fork.
13
Connect cable to clutch fork
Snap the cable end ball socket onto the clutch fork lever stud. Install the retaining clip to secure the connection. Verify the ball socket is fully seated on the stud and cannot pull off.
14
Adjust cable tension
Turn the adjustment nut using a 15mm wrench to take up slack in the cable. The clutch pedal should have approximately 1 to 2 inches of free play at the top of pedal travel before resistance is felt. Once proper free play is achieved, hold the adjustment nut and tighten the jam nut against it to lock the adjustment.
15
Reinstall dash panel
Reinstall the driver's side lower dash panel using the 10mm retaining screws. Reconnect the negative battery cable.

Reassembly

Ensure all cable retaining clips are properly installed at both the clutch pedal and clutch fork connections
Verify the cable routing does not contact the exhaust, steering components, or any sharp edges
Double-check that the jam nut is tightened against the adjustment nut to prevent cable adjustment changes during operation

Verification

With engine off, press the clutch pedal multiple times and verify smooth operation with no binding or excessive resistance
Measure clutch pedal free play at the top of pedal travel - should be 1 to 2 inches before resistance
Start the engine and verify the clutch engages and disengages smoothly when shifting through all gears
Test drive the vehicle and confirm proper clutch operation under load, checking for slipping or difficulty shifting
Recheck cable adjustment after test drive and readjust if necessary