Free API
transmission

Clutch Disc

for 2007 Ram 3500 5.9L I6 Cummins · 4WD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
6.3 h
Tools
12
Steps
15
Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

This procedure covers removal and replacement of the clutch disc on a 2007 Ram 3500 with 5.9L Cummins diesel and manual transmission, requiring transmission removal.

Warnings

⚠️The NV5600 transmission weighs approximately 250 lbs. Use proper lifting equipment and have an assistant available.
⚠️Support vehicle on jack stands rated for its weight. Never work under a vehicle supported only by a floor jack.
Clutch disc contains asbestos in some models. Avoid breathing dust and do not use compressed air to clean components.
Mark driveshaft and transfer case flanges before removal to maintain proper phasing and balance.
ℹ️This procedure assumes the NV5600 6-speed manual transmission. Verify transmission model before beginning work.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Fluids

  • ATF+4 — 8 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
  2. Disconnect both battery cables, negative first
  3. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
  4. Remove skid plates and belly pans if equipped
  5. Allow transmission and transfer case to cool completely if recently driven

Procedure

  1. 1
    Drain transmission and transfer case
    Place drain pans under transmission and transfer case. Remove drain plugs from both units and allow fluids to drain completely. Reinstall drain plugs with new gaskets finger-tight for now. Note the amount of fluid drained for reference during refill. Refill transmission with approximately 4.3 quarts of the OEM-specified G56 manual transmission fluid (Mopar MS-9224 spec) through fill plug until fluid reaches bottom of fill hole.
  2. 2
    Remove driveshafts
    Mark front and rear driveshaft flanges to their yokes with paint or punch marks for proper reinstallation alignment. Remove the four bolts at each driveshaft flange. Support driveshafts and remove them from vehicle. Stuff rags into transfer case and rear axle outputs to prevent fluid leakage and contamination.
  3. 3
    Disconnect shift linkage and electrical connections
    Disconnect the shift tower from the transmission by removing the shift lever boot and unbolting the tower (typically 4 bolts). Disconnect all electrical connectors including reverse light switch, vehicle speed sensor, and any other sensors on the transmission. Label connections if needed for reassembly.
  4. 4
    Remove clutch slave cylinder
    Remove the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder from the bellhousing. Do not disconnect the hydraulic line; instead, secure the cylinder to the frame with wire or zip ties to prevent strain on the line. Inspect cylinder for leaks while accessible.
  5. 5
    Support transmission and transfer case
    Position a transmission jack under the transmission and another jack or support under the transfer case. Raise jacks slightly to take the weight off the crossmember mounts. Ensure transmission is securely supported before proceeding.
  6. 6
    Remove crossmember and mounts
    Remove the transmission crossmember mounting bolts (typically 4-6 bolts to frame). Remove any transfer case mounting bolts to the crossmember. Carefully lower and remove the crossmember. Inspect rubber mounts for deterioration and replace if necessary.
  7. 7
    Separate transfer case from transmission
    Remove the transfer case-to-transmission mounting bolts (typically 6 bolts). Carefully slide the transfer case rearward off the transmission output shaft using the support jack. Have an assistant help guide the heavy unit. Once separated, lower transfer case and move aside or remove from under vehicle.
  8. 8
    Remove transmission-to-engine bolts
    Remove all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts. These are typically located around the perimeter of the bellhousing. There may be bolts of different lengths in different positions; note their locations for proper reinstallation. Check for any ground straps or harness brackets attached to these bolts.
  9. 9
    Remove transmission
    With all bolts removed and transmission supported on jack, carefully slide the transmission straight back away from the engine. Keep the transmission level to prevent binding on the input shaft. The input shaft must slide out of the clutch disc and pilot bearing smoothly. Once clear of the engine, lower transmission and remove from under vehicle. This requires care due to the weight and size of the G56.
  10. 10
    Inspect and remove clutch components
    With transmission removed, inspect the clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel for wear, hot spots, cracks, or glazing. Mark the pressure plate orientation to the flywheel with paint. Remove the pressure plate bolts in a gradual crisscross pattern to prevent warping, loosening each bolt 1-2 turns at a time. Remove pressure plate and clutch disc. Do not drop the clutch disc.
  11. 11
    Inspect flywheel and pilot bearing
    Inspect flywheel surface for heat damage, cracks, or excessive wear. Check for hot spots (blue discoloration). If flywheel shows significant wear, it should be resurfaced or replaced. Remove the pilot bearing from the crankshaft using a slide hammer or pilot bearing puller. Inspect the crankshaft bore for damage.
  12. 12
    Install new pilot bearing and clean surfaces
    Install the new pilot bearing into the crankshaft bore using a pilot bearing installation tool or socket that matches the outer diameter. Drive it in squarely until seated flush with the crankshaft bore. Clean the flywheel surface with brake cleaner and a wire brush to remove any oil, debris, or glazing. Ensure the surface is completely clean and dry.
  13. 13
    Install clutch disc and pressure plate
    Place the new clutch disc against the flywheel with the damper springs facing the transmission (longer side of hub toward transmission). Insert the clutch alignment tool through the disc and into the pilot bearing to hold disc centered. Position the pressure plate over the disc, aligning marks made during removal if reusing. Install pressure plate bolts finger-tight, then tighten in a crisscross pattern gradually to prevent warping. Consult manufacturer specifications for final torque values. Remove alignment tool only after verifying disc can move freely on the tool.
  14. 14
    Prepare transmission for installation
    Install new throw-out bearing (release bearing) onto the input shaft retainer. Verify it moves smoothly. Apply a small amount of high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines (do not over-grease as it can contaminate the clutch). Replace the transmission input shaft seal if worn. Clean the bellhousing mating surface thoroughly.
  15. 15
    Install transmission
    Position transmission on jack and carefully raise into position. Ensure clutch alignment tool is still in place. Align transmission with engine, ensuring input shaft enters the clutch disc splines. The transmission should slide forward smoothly when properly aligned. Do not force it. If resistance is felt, lower slightly and adjust angle. Once the input shaft fully enters the pilot bearing, the bellhousing should sit flush against the engine block. Install all bellhousing bolts and tighten in a star pattern. Remove clutch alignment tool through the bellhousing inspection cover if accessible, or wait until transfer case installation allows access.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall transfer case to transmission with new gasket if equipped, ensuring proper alignment of output shaft splines
  2. Install crossmember and transmission mounts, ensuring proper positioning before final tightening
  3. Reinstall clutch slave cylinder to bellhousing
  4. Reconnect all electrical connectors and shift linkage in reverse order of removal
  5. Reinstall driveshafts, aligning marks made during removal to maintain proper phasing
  6. Tighten all driveshaft flange bolts to specification in a crisscross pattern
  7. Refill transmission with 8 quarts ATF+4 through fill plug until fluid reaches bottom of fill hole
  8. Refill transfer case with 2.5 quarts ATF+4 until fluid reaches bottom of fill hole
  9. Reinstall skid plates and belly pans if equipped
  10. Reconnect battery cables, positive first, then negative

Verification

  • Start engine and verify no unusual noises from transmission or clutch area
  • With engine running, depress clutch pedal and verify smooth engagement into all gears
  • Check for fluid leaks around transmission, transfer case, and driveshaft connections
  • Test drive vehicle and verify proper clutch operation: smooth engagement, no slipping under load, and complete disengagement when pedal is depressed
  • Verify all gears shift smoothly without grinding or resistance
  • Check that driveshafts rotate without vibration by test driving at various speeds
  • Re-check fluid levels after test drive and top off if necessary
  • Inspect for any leaks after test drive, particularly at drain plugs and seals

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

🔧Stuck on this clutch disc? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Ram within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
🔓 LIBERATED FOREVER
The 2007 Ram 3500 5.9L I6 Cummins repair data is free for every DIYer and shop on earth, permanently, because Timmehster paid $99 to unlock it.
Mitchell1 charges $169/mo for this. ALLDATAdiy charges $30/yr per vehicle. Open Labor Project is free permanently, because of community sponsors like Timmehster.
Free another vehicle →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →