Clutch Kit

Complete clutch kit replacement procedure for 2007 Ram 3500 with 5.9L Cummins diesel and manual transmission, requiring transmission removal.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Clutch kit (disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing) × 1 — OEM or South Bend/Valair/LUK diesel clutch kit
• Pilot bearing × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Transmission input shaft seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Clutch fork pivot ball (inspect and replace if worn) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Transmission mounting bolts (replace if damaged) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• ATF+4 transmission fluid — 8 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake
2. Disconnect both battery cables (negative first, then positive)
3. Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
4. Remove rear wheels if additional access is needed
5. Allow drivetrain to cool completely if recently operated
6. Spray all exhaust and transmission mounting hardware with penetrating oil
7. Place drain pan under transmission

Procedure

1. 1

   Drain transmission fluid
   Locate the drain plug on the bottom of the G56 6-speed manual transmission. Remove drain plug and drain fluid completely into drain pan. Reinstall drain plug hand-tight for now (will be properly torqued during reassembly).
2. 2

   Remove transfer case
   Disconnect the front and rear driveshafts at the transfer case flanges. Mark orientation for reassembly. Disconnect the transfer case shift linkage and any electrical connectors. Support transfer case with transmission jack or support strap. Remove the 6 transfer case mounting nuts from the transmission adapter. Carefully slide transfer case rearward off input shaft and lower from vehicle. Transfer case weighs approximately 90 lbs.
   ⚠Transfer case output shaft must clear transmission adapter housing. Angle slightly if needed during removal.
3. 3

   Disconnect transmission linkages and wiring
   Disconnect the clutch hydraulic line at the slave cylinder (located on the driver side of the transmission bellhousing). Allow fluid to drain. Disconnect the reverse light switch connector and vehicle speed sensor connector on the transmission. Remove the shift tower bolts (4 bolts) and lift the shift tower assembly straight up and off the transmission. Cover the opening with a rag to prevent debris entry.
4. 4

   Remove rear driveshaft
   Mark the rear driveshaft-to-differential flange orientation. Remove the 4 U-joint strap bolts at the differential end. Slide driveshaft rearward to separate from transmission output shaft. Support and remove driveshaft from vehicle. Stuff a rag in the transmission output housing to prevent fluid leakage.
5. 5

   Support engine and transmission
   Position a transmission jack under the transmission with the saddle centered on the transmission case. Apply slight upward pressure to support the weight. Place a floor jack with a wood block under the engine oil pan (toward the rear) to support the engine once the transmission is removed. Do not jack on the oil pan drain plug.
6. 6

   Remove transmission crossmember and mounts
   Remove the transmission mount-to-crossmember bolts (2 bolts). Remove the crossmember-to-frame bolts (4 bolts, 2 per side). Lower and remove the crossmember from the vehicle. Inspect the transmission mount for damage and replace if necessary.
7. 7

   Remove bellhousing-to-engine bolts
   Locate and remove all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts. There are typically 6-8 bolts of varying lengths around the perimeter of the bellhousing. Note the location of different length bolts for reassembly. Remove the lower inspection cover if present. Some bolts may be accessed from above in the engine bay.
   ⚠Ensure transmission jack is securely supporting transmission weight before removing final bolts.
8. 8

   Remove transmission from vehicle
   Verify all connections, bolts, and linkages are disconnected. Slowly roll the transmission jack rearward, sliding the transmission input shaft out of the clutch assembly. Keep the transmission level and perpendicular to the engine to avoid damaging the clutch disc. Once the input shaft clears the bellhousing, carefully lower the transmission and roll it out from under the vehicle.
   ⚠️Transmission weighs approximately 250 lbs. Maintain control of transmission jack at all times and use assistance if available.
9. 9

   Inspect flywheel and remove pressure plate
   Inspect the flywheel friction surface for heat checking, cracks, or deep grooves. Minor surface imperfections are acceptable, but significant damage requires flywheel replacement. Using a clutch alignment tool to support the clutch disc, gradually loosen the 6 pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts in a star pattern (1-2 turns each in sequence) to release spring tension evenly. Once tension is released, remove all bolts and carefully remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
   ⚠Loosening pressure plate bolts unevenly can warp the pressure plate and cause sudden spring release.
10. 10

    Remove and replace pilot bearing
    The pilot bearing is pressed into the center of the crankshaft. Use a slide hammer with internal puller attachment or pack the bearing cavity with heavy grease and use a snug-fitting rod to hydraulically force the bearing out. Clean the crankshaft bore thoroughly. Install the new pilot bearing using a pilot bearing installation tool or appropriately sized socket, driving it in square until it seats at the proper depth (typically flush to 0.020 inches recessed).
11. 11

    Inspect and prepare clutch components
    Inspect the clutch fork for cracks or wear at the pivot point and throwout bearing contact points. Replace if worn. Verify the fork pivot ball is secure and not worn. Clean the flywheel surface with brake cleaner and allow to dry completely. Do not get any oil or grease on the flywheel friction surface. Lightly sand the flywheel surface with 180-grit sandpaper if minor glazing is present, then clean again.
12. 12

    Install new clutch disc and pressure plate
    Install the new throwout bearing onto the clutch fork. Apply a small amount of high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines and the throwout bearing contact area on the input shaft retainer. Position the new clutch disc against the flywheel with the spring-damper side facing the transmission (away from flywheel). Insert the clutch alignment tool through the disc and into the pilot bearing. Position the new pressure plate over the disc and align the dowel pins with the flywheel holes. Install all pressure plate bolts hand-tight, then tighten gradually in a star pattern. Consult the clutch kit instructions for the exact pressure plate bolt torque (typically approximately 45-55 ft-lbs for G56 Cummins applications).
    ℹ️Clutch disc MUST be installed with correct orientation. The side marked 'flywheel side' or with the spring damper hub faces away from flywheel toward transmission.
13. 13

    Reinstall transmission
    Ensure clutch alignment tool is still in place. Apply a thin film of high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines if not already done. Position transmission on transmission jack and raise into position. Align the transmission input shaft with the clutch alignment tool and slowly push the transmission forward. The input shaft should slide through the clutch disc and into the pilot bearing. Once the bellhousing is within 1/2 inch of the engine block, the transmission should pull itself in. If excessive force is required, stop and verify alignment. Remove the clutch alignment tool once input shaft is partially engaged. Install all bellhousing-to-engine bolts and tighten in a star pattern. Tighten the bellhousing-to-engine bolts in multiple passes to the factory specification (typically approximately 70-85 ft-lbs; verify against the service manual).
    ⚠Never use bellhousing bolts to pull a misaligned transmission into place. This can damage the clutch disc or crack the bellhousing.
14. 14

    Reinstall crossmember and remaining components
    Reinstall the transmission crossmember and tighten frame bolts securely. Install transmission mount-to-crossmember bolts. Remove the transmission jack and engine support jack. Reinstall the rear driveshaft, aligning marks made during removal. Tighten U-joint strap bolts securely (typically 15-20 ft-lbs). Reinstall the shift tower with new gasket if available, tightening bolts in a cross pattern. Reconnect all electrical connectors (reverse light switch, VSS). Reconnect the clutch hydraulic line to the slave cylinder.
15. 15

    Reinstall transfer case and refill fluids
    Clean the mating surfaces between transmission and transfer case adapter. Apply RTV sealant if gasket is not used. Position transfer case on jack and align input shaft with transmission output shaft. Install the 6 mounting nuts and tighten in a star pattern to 25-30 ft-lbs. Reconnect front and rear driveshafts, aligning marks made during removal. Reconnect transfer case shift linkage and electrical connectors. Refill the transmission with approximately 4.4 quarts of the correct G56 manual transmission fluid (Chrysler MS-9224 spec, e.g. 75W-85 GL-4 synthetic) through the fill plug. Refill transfer case with approximately 2.0 quarts of ATF+4 (verify capacity against factory service manual). Tighten all fill and drain plugs securely.

Reassembly

1. Torque all fasteners to manufacturer specifications where available, or use conservative torque values appropriate for bolt size and thread engagement
2. Ensure all driveshaft U-joint strap bolts are tight and properly oriented with alignment marks
3. Verify clutch hydraulic system is properly connected and bled of air
4. Double-check that all electrical connectors are fully seated and secured
5. Reinstall rear wheels if removed and torque lug nuts to 135 ft-lbs in star pattern

Verification

• Bleed the clutch hydraulic system by pumping the clutch pedal 15-20 times with the bleeder screw closed, then opening the bleeder on the slave cylinder while holding pedal down. Repeat until no air bubbles appear. Top off clutch master cylinder reservoir
• Reconnect battery cables (positive first, then negative)
• Start engine with transmission in neutral and clutch pedal released. Listen for abnormal noises
• With engine running, depress clutch pedal fully and shift through all gears. Each gear should engage smoothly without grinding
• Check for fluid leaks around transmission, transfer case, and clutch hydraulic line connections
• Perform a test drive in a safe area. Verify smooth clutch engagement without slipping, proper gear selection, and no unusual vibrations
• After test drive, recheck all fluid levels and inspect for leaks
• Clutch may require 500-1000 miles of break-in period for optimal performance. Avoid aggressive starts or heavy loads during break-in

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