suspension
Strut Assembly - Front
for 2007 Ram 3500 5.9L I6 Cummins · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.7 h
Tools
14
Steps
14
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
This procedure replaces the front strut assemblies on a 2007 Ram 3500 with 5.9L Cummins diesel engine, including removal of the strut from the knuckle and tower, and installation of new strut assemblies.
Warnings
⚠️CRITICAL SAFETY SYSTEM: Improper installation of struts can result in loss of vehicle control, collision, and death. If any step is unclear, seek professional assistance immediately.
⚠️Compressed coil springs contain extreme energy and can cause severe injury or death if released uncontrolled. Never loosen the strut center nut unless the spring is properly compressed with a spring compressor.
⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight (9000+ lbs). This vehicle weighs approximately 7500-8800 lbs.
⚠The 2007 Ram 3500 uses large, heavy-duty struts. Each assembly weighs 25-35 lbs. Use proper lifting technique and ensure secure support during removal.
⚠Strut-to-knuckle bolts may be torque-to-yield (TTY). Verify with dealer or service manual whether replacement is required. Reusing TTY bolts can result in failure.
ℹ️A front-end alignment is MANDATORY after this repair. Strut replacement affects camber and caster angles.
Tools required
Wheel chocksEssential
Torque wrench (30-200 Nm range)Essential
19mm socket and ratchetEssential
21mm socket and ratchetEssential
18mm wrenchEssential
15mm socketEssential
8mm Allen key or hex bit socketEssential
Breaker barEssential
Floor jack for suspension supportEssential
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Parts
- Front strut assembly (complete) × 2 — Use OEM specification or quality aftermarket
- Strut-to-knuckle bolts (if TTY) × 4 — Verify if bolts are torque-to-yield
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level, solid surface and engage parking brake firmly
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels on both sides
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts 1/2 turn while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle using manufacturer-approved lift points and secure on jack stands rated for vehicle weight
- Remove both front wheels completely
- Spray all fasteners with penetrating oil and allow to soak for 10-15 minutes if visible corrosion is present
- Verify you have complete strut assemblies (strut, spring, and mount pre-assembled). If replacing only strut cartridges, a spring compressor is mandatory
Procedure
- 1Support lower control armPosition a floor jack under the front axle to support the suspension weight. Raise jack until it just contacts and slightly loads the axle, but do not lift the vehicle. This supports the axle when the shock absorber is disconnected.
- 2Disconnect sway bar end link (if necessary)If the sway bar end link interferes with strut removal, remove the upper nut connecting the end link to the strut using an 18mm wrench while holding the stud with a 15mm wrench or socket. Note orientation and position for reassembly. On some configurations, the end link can remain connected.Torque specSway Bar End Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 3Remove strut-to-knuckle boltsLocate the two bolts connecting the bottom of the strut to the steering knuckle. These are large 21mm bolts. Use a breaker bar if necessary to break torque. Remove both bolts completely and set aside. Inspect bolts for signs of necking or stretching - if present, these are TTY bolts and must be replaced. Support the strut by hand as you remove the second bolt.⚠The strut will pivot away from the knuckle once both bolts are removed. Maintain control to prevent damage to brake lines or ABS wiring.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts150 Nm (111 lb-ft)
- 4Access strut tower mounting nutsOpen the hood and locate the strut tower on the inner fender area. Remove any plastic covers or insulation obscuring access to the three upper mounting nuts. On the driver side, you may need to move the air filter housing slightly for better access.
- 5Remove upper strut tower nutsUsing a 15mm socket, remove the three nuts securing the strut mount to the strut tower. Do NOT remove or loosen the large center nut at this time - it holds the compressed spring. Remove only the three outer nuts that secure the mount to the tower. Keep nuts organized for reinstallation.⚠️DO NOT loosen the center nut on top of the strut mount. This nut retains the compressed coil spring and loosening it without a spring compressor will cause violent release of spring energy.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
- 6Remove strut assemblyCarefully lower the floor jack supporting the control arm slightly to create clearance. Guide the strut assembly down and out from the wheel well. The top studs will pull through the strut tower holes. Maneuver the assembly past the brake components and remove from vehicle. This is a heavy component weighing 25-35 lbs - use proper lifting technique.
- 7Inspect mounting areasClean the strut tower mounting surface with a wire brush, removing any rust or debris. Inspect the strut tower for cracks, damage, or rust perforation. Check the steering knuckle strut mounting holes for elongation or damage. Clean the knuckle mounting surface and bolt holes thoroughly.
- 8Install new strut assembly to towerGuide the new complete strut assembly into position, inserting the upper mount studs through the strut tower holes. Ensure the mount is properly oriented with the studs fully through the holes. Thread the three upper nuts onto the studs by hand. Do not torque at this time - just snug them finger-tight to hold the assembly in place.
- 9Connect strut to knuckleRaise the floor jack under the control arm to lift the knuckle and align the strut mounting holes with the knuckle bracket. You may need to pivot the knuckle slightly or use a pry bar to align holes. Insert the strut-to-knuckle bolts (use new bolts if originals were TTY) and thread nuts on by hand. Ensure bolts are inserted from the correct direction per factory orientation.
- 10Torque strut-to-knuckle boltsUsing a torque wrench and 21mm socket, torque both strut-to-knuckle bolts to 150 Nm (111 lb-ft). Torque each bolt in stages (50%, 75%, 100%) rather than in one pull. Verify both bolts reach specified torque. These are critical fasteners for steering and suspension integrity.⚠️These bolts are CRITICAL safety fasteners. Verify torque specification is achieved. Under-torquing can result in bolt failure and loss of vehicle control.Torque specStrut-to-Knuckle Bolts150 Nm (111 lb-ft)
- 11Torque strut tower nutsFrom under the hood, torque the three upper strut tower nuts to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft) using a torque wrench and 15mm socket. Torque in a star pattern to ensure even loading of the mount. Again, do NOT touch the center nut - it should remain at factory torque from the complete strut assembly.Torque specStrut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
- 12Reconnect sway bar end linkIf the sway bar end link was disconnected in Step 2, reconnect it now. Position the end link in its original orientation and install the upper nut. Hold the stud with a 15mm wrench while torquing the nut to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft) with an 18mm wrench or socket.Torque specSway Bar End Link Nuts55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
- 13Repeat for opposite sidePerform Steps 1-12 for the opposite side front strut. Both front struts should always be replaced as a pair to maintain balanced handling and ride characteristics. Ensure all fasteners are torqued to specification on both sides.
- 14Reinstall wheels and lower vehicleInstall both front wheels and thread lug nuts by hand. Lower vehicle to ground and remove jack stands. With vehicle weight on wheels, torque lug nuts to manufacturer specification (typically 135-160 lb-ft for this vehicle) in a star pattern.
Reassembly
- Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification, particularly the strut-to-knuckle bolts and upper strut tower nuts
- Ensure no tools or parts were left in the engine bay or wheel wells
- Reinstall any plastic covers or air filter components that were moved for access
- Remove wheel chocks from rear wheels
Verification
- Test drive vehicle in a safe area at low speed (under 25 mph). Listen for any clunking, rattling, or unusual noises from front suspension
- Verify steering returns to center properly and vehicle tracks straight with hands off wheel
- Check for any fluid leaks from strut assemblies after test drive
- Bounce each front corner of vehicle - struts should dampen motion within 1-2 cycles without excessive bouncing
- SCHEDULE FRONT-END ALIGNMENT IMMEDIATELY. This is not optional - strut replacement affects wheel alignment and tire wear. Driving without alignment can cause rapid tire wear and poor handling
- After 50-100 miles, re-verify torque on all fasteners, particularly strut-to-knuckle bolts