transmission
Throw-Out Bearing
for 2007 Ram 3500 5.9L I6 Cummins · 4WD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
7.5 h
Tools
14
Steps
13
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
This procedure covers replacement of the throw-out bearing (clutch release bearing) on a 2007 Ram 3500 with the 5.9L Cummins diesel and manual transmission, requiring transmission removal.
Warnings
⚠️Ensure vehicle is securely supported on jack stands rated for at least 10,000 lbs. This transmission weighs approximately 250-300 lbs and requires proper support.
⚠Mark driveshaft orientation before removal to maintain proper balance during reinstallation.
⚠Do not allow transmission to hang by input shaft as this can damage clutch disc.
ℹ️Inspect clutch disc, pressure plate, and flywheel while transmission is removed. Consider replacing clutch assembly if wear is evident.
Tools required
Transmission jackEssential
Wrench set (combination and box end)Essential
Torque wrench (lb-ft range)Essential
Clutch alignment toolEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Breaker barEssential
Extension setEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Throw-out bearing (clutch release bearing) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Transmission input shaft seal × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Pilot bearing (if worn) × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Clutch fork boot × 1 — Use OEM specification
- Transmission gasket/sealant × 1 — RTV silicone or OEM gasket
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Fluids
- ATF+4 (manual transmission) — 8 qt
- ATF+4 (transfer case) — 2.5 qt
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level ground and engage parking brake
- Place wheel chocks behind rear wheels
- Disconnect negative battery cable
- Raise vehicle and support securely on jack stands at frame rails
- Remove skid plates if equipped
- Allow transmission and transfer case to cool if recently driven
Procedure
- 1Drain transmission and transfer casePlace drain pan under transmission. Remove the drain plug from the G56 transmission and allow fluid to drain completely. Remove transfer case drain plug and drain fluid. Reinstall drain plugs after draining to prevent debris entry.
- 2Remove driveshaftsMark the front and rear driveshaft flanges to the differential and transfer case yokes for proper alignment during reinstallation. Remove the four bolts at each U-joint strap or flange connection. Support driveshafts and remove them from the vehicle. Cap the transfer case output to prevent fluid loss.
- 3Disconnect shift linkage and electrical connectionsDisconnect the shift tower linkage from the transmission. Unplug all electrical connectors including reverse light switch, vehicle speed sensor, and any other sensors. Label connections if necessary for reassembly. Remove slave cylinder mounting bolts and secure cylinder aside without disconnecting hydraulic line.⚠Do not allow slave cylinder to hang by hydraulic line - support it with wire or bungee cord
- 4Support engine and remove crossmemberPlace a jack with wood block under the engine oil pan to support engine weight. Remove the transmission crossmember mounting bolts. Remove the transmission mount bolts from the transmission. Carefully lower and remove the crossmember from the vehicle.
- 5Remove transfer caseSupport transfer case with transmission jack or second floor jack. Remove the transfer case-to-transmission mounting bolts (typically six bolts). Carefully slide transfer case rearward off the transmission output shaft and lower from vehicle. This reduces overall weight for transmission removal.
- 6Remove transmission mounting boltsSupport transmission securely with transmission jack centered under the transmission case. Remove all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts. There are typically 6-8 bolts of varying lengths around the perimeter. Note bolt locations and lengths for proper reinstallation.⚠️Ensure transmission is properly secured to transmission jack before removing final bolts
- 7Separate and remove transmissionCarefully slide the transmission straight rearward away from the engine, keeping it level. The input shaft must clear the clutch disc and pilot bearing without binding. Once the input shaft is clear of the bellhousing, carefully lower the transmission and remove from under the vehicle. Use care not to damage clutch disc.
- 8Remove old throw-out bearingInspect the clutch fork and pivot ball for wear. Slide the old throw-out bearing off the transmission input shaft bearing retainer. Remove the clutch fork from the bellhousing by disengaging it from the pivot ball. Remove the clutch fork boot from the bellhousing. Inspect the pivot ball for wear and replace if necessary.
- 9Inspect clutch components and install new bearingThoroughly inspect the clutch pressure plate fingers, clutch disc, and flywheel for wear, hot spots, or damage. Check pilot bearing in crankshaft for smoothness. Clean the transmission input shaft bearing retainer. Apply a light coat of high-temperature grease to the bearing retainer and fork contact points. Slide the new throw-out bearing onto the input shaft retainer. Install new clutch fork boot onto bellhousing. Reinstall clutch fork, engaging it with the throw-out bearing and pivot ball.ℹ️Do not over-grease the bearing retainer as excess grease can contaminate the clutch disc
- 10Reinstall transmissionApply a thin coat of high-temperature grease to the input shaft splines. Position transmission on transmission jack and raise into position. Carefully align the input shaft with the clutch disc splines and pilot bearing. Slide transmission forward, ensuring input shaft engages properly without binding. If binding occurs, rotate the output shaft slightly to align splines. Continue pushing transmission forward until bellhousing seats flush against engine block.⚠Never force transmission during installation - input shaft should slide smoothly into clutch disc and pilot bearing
- 11Install transmission bolts and crossmemberInstall all bellhousing-to-engine block bolts in their proper locations. Tighten bolts in a cross pattern working from center outward. Position the transmission crossmember and install mounting bolts. Install transmission mount bolts. Remove engine support jack.
- 12Reinstall transfer caseClean the mating surfaces between transmission and transfer case. Apply a thin bead of RTV sealant to the transfer case mounting surface if no gasket is used. Position transfer case on jack and raise into position. Align splines and slide transfer case onto transmission output shaft. Install all transfer case mounting bolts and tighten evenly.
- 13Reconnect components and refill fluidsReinstall slave cylinder and tighten mounting bolts. Reconnect all electrical connectors, ensuring they are fully seated. Reconnect shift linkage to transmission shift tower. Install driveshafts, aligning marks made during removal. Tighten all U-joint strap or flange bolts. Remove fill plugs from transmission and transfer case. Using a fluid pump, fill transmission with approximately 4.4 quarts of the manufacturer-specified manual transmission fluid (Chrysler MS-9224 / 75W-85 GL-4) through fill hole. Fill transfer case with approximately 1.9 quarts of ATF+4 (verify capacity in service manual). Reinstall fill plugs. Reinstall skid plates if equipped.
Reassembly
- Double-check that all electrical connectors are properly seated and secured
- Verify shift linkage is properly adjusted and moves freely through all gears
- Ensure driveshaft bolts are properly tightened and aligned per removal marks
- Check that slave cylinder is properly positioned and not binding
- Verify all drain and fill plugs are tight
Verification
- Reconnect battery and start engine in neutral with clutch pedal depressed
- Check for fluid leaks around transmission, transfer case, and slave cylinder
- Verify clutch pedal feels normal with proper free play (approximately 1 inch)
- Test clutch engagement and disengagement with vehicle stationary - clutch should engage smoothly without chatter or slipping
- Road test vehicle through all gears, verifying smooth shifting and proper clutch operation
- Listen for any unusual noises during clutch engagement and disengagement
- Recheck fluid levels after test drive and top off if necessary