steering
Tie Rod End - Inner
for 2007 Ram 3500 5.9L I6 Cummins · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.2 h
Tools
12
Steps
11
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
This procedure covers the removal and replacement of the inner tie rod end on a 2007 Ram 3500 with 4WD, requiring rack boot removal and tie rod threading.
Warnings
⚠Ensure vehicle is securely supported on jack stands before working underneath. Never rely on a jack alone.
⚠Steering linkage is under load. Do not place hands near pivot points while lowering vehicle.
ℹ️Mark and measure tie rod positions carefully to minimize alignment changes. A professional alignment is required after completion.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack standsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
19mm socket and ratchetEssential
Tie rod end puller or pickle forkEssential
Torque wrenchEssential
Pliers for boot clampsEssential
White paint marker or grease pencilEssential
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Parts
- Inner tie rod end × 1 — Use OEM specification or equivalent Moog/TRW
- Steering rack boot kit with clamps × 1 — Replace if damaged during removal
- Outer tie rod end jam nut × 1 — Replace if damaged
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake firmly
- Chock rear wheels securely
- Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground
- Raise front of vehicle and support on jack stands at frame rails
- Remove front wheel on side being serviced
- Spray penetrating oil on tie rod threads, jam nut, and outer tie rod end taper if accessible
Procedure
- 1Mark tie rod position for referenceUsing a paint marker or grease pencil, mark the position of the outer tie rod end relative to the inner tie rod threads. Count and record the number of exposed threads beyond the jam nut. Measure the total length of the tie rod assembly (from the adjuster sleeve/tie rod tube to the center of the outer tie rod end ball stud). This measurement is critical for approximate toe alignment.
- 2Loosen outer tie rod jam nutUsing a 19mm wrench or socket, loosen the jam nut that locks the outer tie rod end to the inner tie rod. Do not remove completely yet. If seized, apply additional penetrating oil and allow to soak, then use heat carefully if necessary.
- 3Remove outer tie rod end from knuckleRemove the castle nut securing the outer tie rod end to the steering knuckle. Use a tie rod end puller or pickle fork to separate the taper from the knuckle. If using a pickle fork, note that it will likely damage the outer tie rod boot. Once separated, unthread the outer tie rod end completely from the inner tie rod while counting turns for reference.
- 4Access inner tie rod bootThis vehicle does not use a rack-and-pinion boot. The inner tie rod end connects to the tie rod tube/steering linkage on the solid front axle. Locate the inner tie rod joint and its clamp/adjuster sleeve.
- 5Secure the steering rackLoosen the adjuster sleeve clamp bolts on the tie rod tube so the inner tie rod end can be unthreaded. Secure the linkage as needed for good access to the inner tie rod joint.
- 6Remove inner tie rod endAfter loosening the adjuster sleeve clamp bolts, unthread the inner tie rod end from the tie rod tube (or separate the ball stud from the linkage). Note thread direction of the adjuster sleeve before turning. The joint may be seized; use penetrating oil and heat if necessary.
- 7Clean and inspect steering rack threadsUsing a wire brush, clean the threads on the adjuster sleeve/tie rod tube where the inner tie rod mounts. Inspect for damage, cross-threading, or excessive wear. Verify the new inner tie rod threads match before installation.
- 8Install new inner tie rod endDo not use thread locker on the adjustable threads. Thread the new inner tie rod end into the adjuster sleeve by hand to the recorded reference position. Secure by tightening the adjuster sleeve clamp bolts to specification (verify with service data).h service data if available).
- 9Install steering rack bootThis vehicle has no steering rack boot; skip this step. Instead, verify the adjuster sleeve clamps and tie rod grease boots are intact.
- 10Install outer tie rod endThread the outer tie rod end onto the new inner tie rod, using your reference marks and thread count to achieve approximately the same position as before removal. Leave the jam nut loose for now. Insert the outer tie rod taper into the steering knuckle and install the castle nut. Torque the castle nut to specification (approximately 55 ft-lbs, verify with service data), then advance as needed to align the slot and install a new cotter pin.
- 11Set jam nut and verify measurementsVerify the overall tie rod length matches your original measurement. Adjust the outer tie rod position if necessary to match reference marks. Once positioned correctly, tighten the jam nut against the outer tie rod end securely to lock the adjustment. Secure the adjustment by tightening the adjuster sleeve clamp bolts to specification (verify with service data).
Reassembly
- Reinstall wheel and hand-tighten lug nuts in a star pattern
- Lower vehicle to ground and torque lug nuts to 135 ft-lbs in star pattern
- Check steering wheel for centering with wheels pointed straight ahead
Verification
- Start engine and turn steering wheel lock-to-lock slowly to verify no binding or unusual noises
- Check that steering rack boot is not torn and has no leaks
- Verify outer tie rod end castle nut is properly torqued and cotter pin is installed
- Test drive vehicle at low speed in safe area to confirm steering response
- Schedule professional wheel alignment immediately, as toe setting will be approximate at best