Wheel Bearing - Press-In Front

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of press-in style front wheel bearings on a 2007 Ram 3500 4WD with 5.9L Cummins, requiring bearing removal from the steering knuckle and pressing in a new bearing assembly.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing assembly (press-in type) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Wheel bearing seal (inner) × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Hub nut × 1 — Single-use prevailing torque type
• Cotter pin for castle nut × 1 — Use OEM specification
• Brake caliper mounting bolts (if corroded) × 2 — Use OEM specification
• Ball joint nut (if damaged during removal) × 1 — Use OEM specification

Fluids

• 75W-90 synthetic gear oil — 0.5 qt

Preparation

1. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake
2. Chock rear wheels securely
3. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while vehicle is on ground (1/2 turn)
4. Raise front of vehicle and support on jack stands at frame rails
5. Remove front wheel completely
6. Place catch pan under front differential near axle tube

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove brake caliper and rotor
   Remove the two brake caliper slide pin bolts and carefully lift the caliper off the rotor. Support the caliper with a hanger or wire from the upper control arm - do not let it hang by the brake hose. Remove the caliper mounting bracket bolts (two bolts). Remove the brake rotor by pulling straight off the hub. If the rotor is stuck, use penetrating oil and light hammer taps on the back side.
2. 2

   Remove hub nut and ABS sensor
   If equipped with ABS, disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector and remove the sensor mounting bolt. Use the appropriate large socket to remove the single-use axle hub nut (verify size against factory information, commonly ~36mm). This nut requires significant force and is torqued high; note that on this platform the axle nut is typically a prevailing-torque/staked nut, not a castle nut with cotter pin — verify before assuming. If equipped with ABS, disconnect the wheel speed sensor connector and remove the sensor mounting bolt. Carefully remove the sensor from the steering knuckle to prevent damage.
3. 3

   Disconnect tie rod end and upper ball joint
   Remove the tie rod end castle nut and use a tie rod separator or pickle fork to separate the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Remove the upper ball joint nut and use a ball joint separator to break the taper. NOTE: The 2007 Ram 3500 4WD uses a solid front axle (AAM 9.25) — verify the knuckle/ball-joint arrangement and whether cotter pins are used against factory service information before proceeding. Support the knuckle with a jack or stand as you work to prevent it from falling.
4. 4

   Disconnect lower ball joint
   Remove the lower ball joint castle nut. Use a ball joint separator or pickle fork to break the taper between the lower ball joint stud and the steering knuckle. Once separated, carefully maneuver the steering knuckle assembly free. NOTE: This is a solid front axle — the axle shaft assembly is housed in the axle tube. Verify the correct axle shaft removal method against factory service information and whether significant gear oil loss should be expected.
5. 5

   Separate hub from knuckle
   With the knuckle assembly on a workbench, inspect the hub for wear or damage. Use a hub puller or slide hammer with adapter to press/pull the hub out of the wheel bearing inner race. If the hub is stuck, apply penetrating oil and allow it to soak. The hub must be removed before the bearing can be pressed out. Set the hub aside and inspect the splines for damage.
6. 6

   Remove bearing seal and snapring
   Pry out the inner bearing seal from the back of the steering knuckle using a seal puller or screwdriver. Discard the seal. Locate the bearing retaining snapring inside the knuckle bore. Use snapring pliers to compress and remove the snapring. Some models may not have a snapring - the bearing is simply press-fit.
7. 7

   Press bearing out of knuckle
   Position the steering knuckle on the hydraulic press bed with the hub side down, supported on blocks to allow the bearing to press through. Use a bearing race driver or appropriately sized socket that contacts only the outer race of the bearing. Press the bearing out of the knuckle bore. Apply steady, even pressure - do not hammer or shock-load the press. Once the bearing is free, remove it and inspect the knuckle bore for damage, scoring, or cracks.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect knuckle bore
   Thoroughly clean the bearing bore in the steering knuckle using a wire wheel or die grinder with wire brush attachment. Remove all rust, corrosion, and old bearing material. Inspect the bore for any scoring, cracks, or damage. The bore must be smooth and clean for proper bearing installation. Wipe clean with a lint-free cloth and inspect for any remaining debris.
9. 9

   Press new bearing into knuckle
   Place the steering knuckle on the press bed with the hub side up. Position the new wheel bearing in the bore, ensuring it is square and aligned. The bearing typically has a magnetic encoder ring on one side - this side faces outward (hub side) on ABS-equipped models. Use a bearing race driver that contacts only the outer race. Press the bearing into the bore with steady pressure until it is fully seated against the shoulder in the knuckle bore. Do not contact the inner race during installation.
10. 10

    Install bearing snapring and seal
    If equipped with a bearing retaining snapring, install it into the groove in the knuckle bore using snapring pliers. Ensure the snapring is fully seated in its groove. Apply a thin coating of gear oil to the new inner bearing seal lip. Using a seal driver or large socket that contacts the outer edge of the seal, drive the new seal into place until it is flush with the back of the knuckle.
11. 11

    Press hub into bearing
    Position the knuckle with the hub side up on the press. Align the hub with the bearing inner race, ensuring the splines are clean and the hub is centered. Use a bearing race driver or socket that contacts only the inner race of the bearing (not the outer race or hub face). Press the hub into the bearing until it is fully seated. The hub should be flush with or slightly recessed from the bearing inner race face.
12. 12

    Reinstall knuckle assembly to axle
    Carefully guide the axle shaft splines into the hub while positioning the steering knuckle back into place between the upper and lower ball joints. Push the axle shaft into the differential housing until it fully engages. Install the lower ball joint stud into the knuckle and install a new castle nut. Install the upper ball joint stud into the knuckle and install a new castle nut. Tighten both ball joint nuts to specification and install new cotter pins.
13. 13

    Reconnect tie rod and install hub nut
    Install the tie rod end stud into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and tighten to specification, then install a new cotter pin. Install the wheel speed sensor (if equipped) into the knuckle and connect the electrical connector. Install a new axle hub nut and tighten to factory specification (verify exact torque against factory service information). Note this nut is typically a prevailing-torque/staked type and does not use a cotter pin on this platform — verify before assuming a castle nut.
14. 14

    Reinstall brake components and wheel
    Install the brake rotor onto the hub. Install the caliper mounting bracket and torque the bolts to specification. Position the brake caliper over the rotor and install the caliper slide pin bolts. Torque the caliper bolts to specification. Before installing the wheel, pump the brake pedal several times to ensure proper caliper piston position. Install the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground and torque the lug nuts to specification in a star pattern.
15. 15

    Check and refill front differential
    With the vehicle on level ground, locate the front differential fill plug on the passenger side of the differential housing. Remove the fill plug and check the fluid level. Add the factory-specified gear oil (verify grade/spec against factory service information for the AAM 9.25 front axle) until fluid reaches the bottom of the fill hole. The differential should be filled until oil just begins to seep out. Reinstall the fill plug and torque to specification.

Reassembly

1. All ball joint and tie rod castle nuts must be torqued to specification and secured with new cotter pins
2. Hub nut must be torqued to manufacturer specification - typically 200-250 ft-lbs for this vehicle
3. Wheel lug nuts should be torqued to 135-145 ft-lbs in a star pattern
4. Verify brake caliper mounting bolts are properly torqued before test drive

Verification

• Test drive the vehicle at low speed and listen for any grinding, humming, or abnormal noise from the front wheel bearing area
• Perform several stops to verify proper brake function after caliper reinstallation
• Check for any gear oil leaks around the axle shaft seal and differential
• Verify proper steering function and that there is no play in the wheel bearing by grasping the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and attempting to rock it - there should be no perceptible movement
• Road test at highway speed to confirm no vibration or noise from the repaired wheel bearing

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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