Free API
brakes

Wheel Cylinder

for 2007 Ram 3500 5.9L I6 Cummins · 4WD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.7 h
Tools
17
Steps
12
Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.

This procedure covers the removal and replacement of a rear wheel cylinder on a 2007 Ram 3500 with 5.9L Cummins diesel engine, including brake system bleeding.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a vehicle supported only by a jack. Always use jack stands rated for the vehicle weight.
⚠️Brake fluid is highly corrosive to paint and toxic. Avoid contact with skin and eyes. Clean spills immediately.
Asbestos may be present in older brake components. Avoid breathing brake dust. Use brake cleaner, never compressed air.
Do not press the brake pedal when the wheel cylinder is removed, as this will cause brake fluid to spray out and air to enter the system.
ℹ️This procedure is for rear drum brakes. Ram 3500 may have rear disc brakes depending on configuration.

Tools required

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Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Fluids

  • DOT 3 brake fluid — 1 qt

Preparation

  1. Park vehicle on level, solid ground and place transmission in park (automatic) or first gear (manual)
  2. Engage parking brake fully
  3. Place wheel chocks in front of both front wheels
  4. Loosen rear wheel lug nuts 1/4 turn while vehicle is still on ground
  5. Raise rear of vehicle with floor jack at appropriate rear axle jacking point
  6. Secure vehicle on jack stands rated for at least 10,000 lbs under frame or axle
  7. Remove rear wheel completely
  8. Verify vehicle is stable before proceeding
  9. Open hood and locate brake fluid reservoir - check fluid level and condition

Procedure

  1. 1
    Remove brake drum
    Remove the brake drum retaining clip or screw if present (some models have a Phillips screw in the drum face). Pull the brake drum straight off the hub assembly. If drum is stuck due to rust or brake shoe wear, use a rubber mallet to tap around the outer edge of the drum. If still stuck and the drum has threaded jack-off holes on its face, thread in bolts of the correct size (verify thread size for your application) and tighten evenly to push the drum off. On severe cases, use a brake drum puller.
  2. 2
    Inspect brake assembly and clean
    Once drum is removed, spray the entire brake assembly thoroughly with brake cleaner to remove dust and debris. Allow to dry. Inspect the brake shoes, springs, and wheel cylinder for fluid leaks, damage, or excessive wear. Note the position and orientation of all springs and components for reassembly - take photos if necessary.
  3. 3
    Remove brake shoes
    Using brake spring pliers or brake tool set, remove the brake shoe hold-down springs by pressing in and rotating 90 degrees. Remove the upper and lower return springs using brake spring pliers. Disconnect the parking brake cable from the brake shoe lever. Carefully remove both brake shoes as an assembly, noting how they connect to each other and the adjuster mechanism. Set aside on a clean surface.
  4. 4
    Disconnect brake line from wheel cylinder
    Locate the brake line connection at the rear of the wheel cylinder on the backing plate. Using the appropriate size brake line wrench (typically 9mm or 10mm), carefully loosen and disconnect the brake line from the wheel cylinder. Have a catch pan or rags ready as brake fluid will leak out. Immediately plug the brake line with a rubber cap or wrap with plastic and tape to minimize fluid loss and prevent contamination.
  5. 5
    Remove wheel cylinder from backing plate
    Determine the wheel cylinder retention method for your specific application (some use two mounting bolts from the rear of the backing plate, others use a retaining C-clip/snap ring). Remove the appropriate fasteners or clip and detach the wheel cylinder. Verify fastener type and size against the OEM service manual before proceeding. On some Ram 3500 models, these bolts are accessed from behind the backing plate through holes in the axle flange. Remove the old wheel cylinder and inspect the mounting surface on the backing plate for corrosion or damage.
  6. 6
    Prepare backing plate and install new wheel cylinder
    Clean the wheel cylinder mounting surface on the backing plate with a wire brush and brake cleaner. Apply a thin coat of anti-seize to the mounting bolt threads. Position the new wheel cylinder on the backing plate, ensuring the brake line port is properly oriented. Install the two mounting bolts and torque them to the OEM specification (typically approximately 15-20 ft-lbs for M8 wheel cylinder bolts — verify against the factory service manual). Do not rely on a hand-tight-plus-turn method.
  7. 7
    Reconnect brake line
    Remove the plug or tape from the brake line. Thread the brake line into the new wheel cylinder by hand first to ensure proper thread engagement and prevent cross-threading. Once hand-tight, use the brake line wrench to snug the connection. Tighten firmly but do not over-tighten, as brake line fittings are soft and easily damaged. Typical tightness is 10-15 ft-lbs if using a torque wrench with a crowfoot adapter.
  8. 8
    Reinstall brake shoes and hardware
    Position the brake shoe assembly back onto the backing plate, engaging the shoes with the wheel cylinder pistons at the top and the anchor pin at the bottom. Reconnect the parking brake cable to the brake shoe lever. Install the lower return spring, then the upper return spring using brake spring pliers. Install the hold-down springs and pins by compressing and rotating 90 degrees. Verify all springs and hardware are properly seated and the shoes move freely when pulled away from the backing plate.
  9. 9
    Adjust brake shoes and reinstall drum
    Rotate the brake shoe adjuster star wheel (located at the bottom between the shoes) to expand the shoes until they are close to the drum inner diameter. Clean the inner surface of the brake drum with brake cleaner. Reinstall the drum over the shoes - it should slide on with slight drag. If drum will not fit, back off the adjuster slightly. Once drum is on, rotate it while adjusting the star wheel outward until light drag is felt, then back off 5-6 clicks. Install drum retaining screw or clip if equipped.
  10. 10
    Bleed brake system at wheel cylinder
    Locate the bleeder screw on the back of the wheel cylinder (typically 8mm or 10mm). Attach a clear tube to the bleeder screw and submerge the other end in a container with clean brake fluid of the type specified on the reservoir cap (verify DOT 3 or DOT 4 for your vehicle). Have an assistant slowly pump the brake pedal 3-4 times and hold pressure. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 turn - fluid and air will flow out. Close the bleeder before the assistant releases the pedal. Repeat this process until no air bubbles appear in the tube and only clean fluid flows. Check and refill the brake fluid reservoir frequently during bleeding to prevent introducing more air.
  11. 11
    Final bleeding and system check
    After bleeding at the wheel cylinder, repeat the bleeding process one more time to ensure all air is removed. Tighten the bleeder screw securely (typically 60-80 in-lbs). Wipe away any spilled brake fluid with a clean rag. Check the brake fluid reservoir and fill to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid. Reinstall the reservoir cap.
  12. 12
    Reinstall wheel and lower vehicle
    Reinstall the rear wheel, threading lug nuts by hand first to prevent cross-threading. Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern to snug (do not fully torque while vehicle is on jack stands). Lower the vehicle carefully from jack stands using the floor jack until tires contact the ground but vehicle weight is still partially supported. Torque lug nuts to the factory specification in a star pattern (2007 Ram 3500 is typically approximately 145 ft-lbs — verify exact value and any DRW-specific procedure against the owner's manual/service manual). Fully lower vehicle and remove jack.

Reassembly

  1. Double-check all brake components are properly installed and springs are correctly positioned
  2. Verify brake drum rotates freely without excessive drag
  3. Ensure brake line connection is tight and shows no signs of leaking
  4. Confirm brake fluid reservoir is filled to MAX line with fresh DOT 3 fluid
  5. Remove all tools and equipment from under vehicle

Verification

  • Pump brake pedal several times - it should become firm and hold steady pressure. If pedal is soft or spongy, additional bleeding is required
  • Start engine and test brake pedal - it should remain firm with slight travel increase due to power brake booster assist
  • Check around wheel cylinder and brake line connection for any signs of fluid leakage
  • Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe area - vehicle should stop smoothly without pulling to one side
  • Test parking brake engagement - it should hold the vehicle on an incline
  • After 50-100 miles, recheck brake fluid level and inspect wheel cylinder area for leaks
  • Brake shoes may require readjustment after initial break-in period - if brake pedal travel increases, adjust the star wheel adjuster

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

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More procedures for this vehicle

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