drivetrain
Wheel Bearing - Press-In Front
for 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Cyberbeast Tri Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris Hackleman — Master Technician · 20+ years · Jeff Moore — Master Lexus & Toyota Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
2.0 h
Tools
11
Steps
15
✓Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.
Replace a press-in front wheel bearing on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Cyberbeast. The Cybertruck uses a press-in style bearing in the front knuckle (not a bolt-in hub assembly), requiring knuckle removal or in-vehicle press tooling, plus careful handling around the steer-by-wire and 48V architecture.
Warnings
⚠️This Cybertruck uses a 48V low-voltage system — NOT 12V. Connectors and fuses differ from other Teslas. Always disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery before working near wiring.
⚠️Steer-by-wire: There is no mechanical link from the yoke to the wheels. Do NOT power the vehicle on with the front suspension disassembled — the steering actuator can move the rack unexpectedly.
⚠️NEVER touch, cut, or pierce any orange cable. If you encounter HV components or are unsure of de-energization, STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
⚠Air suspension: The vehicle may attempt to self-level. Place suspension in Jack/Service Mode via the touchscreen before lifting, and support the truck on rated stands — do not rely on air springs.
⚠Stainless steel exoskeleton: Do not strike body panels with steel hammers. Cosmetic damage to stainless is difficult to repair.
⚠Cybertruck curb weight is ~6,800 lb. Use only jacks and stands rated for the load and lift at OEM-designated points.
ℹ️The axle nut is CRITICAL torque and must be replaced with a new nut and new cotter pin/stake as applicable.
Tools required
Floor jack and jack stands rated for Cybertruck curb weight (~6,800 lb)Essential
Torque wrench (20-250 Nm range)Essential
Breaker bar (long handle for axle nut)Essential
Hub/bearing press kit with appropriate cups and driversEssential
Hydraulic shop press (if performing on-bench)
Snap ring pliers (internal)Essential
Ball joint / tie rod separator (pickle fork or press-style)Essential
Soft-face mallet (dead-blow)Essential
Penetrating oil
Insulated gloves rated for low-voltage workEssential
Lug nut socket (matching Cybertruck wheel)Essential
Parts
- Front wheel bearing (press-in, manufacturer-specified for Cybertruck) × 1 — Tesla OEM front bearing — refer to Tesla Service Manual / parts catalog
- Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM single-use axle nut
- Cotter pin or stake nut hardware (as applicable) × 1 — OEM specification
- Bearing snap ring(s) × 2 — OEM internal retaining rings
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery per Tesla service procedure (Cybertruck uses 48V, not 12V — confirm location and use the correct insulated tooling).
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Enable Jack Mode / Service Mode on the touchscreen to disable air suspension self-leveling before lifting.
- Loosen the front wheel lug nuts and the axle nut while the vehicle is on the ground (axle nut torque is very high — use a long breaker bar).
- Lift the front of the vehicle at OEM jack points and support on rated stands. Remove the front wheel.
- Inspect for orange HV cabling routed near the front subframe before proceeding — if present, do not disturb.
Procedure
- 1Remove brake caliper and rotorRemove the front brake caliper bracket bolts and suspend the caliper assembly from the suspension with a hook or strap — do not let it hang by the flex hose. Remove the rotor retaining clip (if present) and slide the rotor off the hub.⚠Do not press the brake pedal with the caliper removed.
- 2Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensorUnclip the wheel speed sensor harness from the knuckle routing clips. Remove the sensor retaining bolt and carefully extract the sensor from the knuckle. Set aside protected from debris.Torque specABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
- 3Remove the axle nutRemove the cotter pin (or break the stake) and remove the axle nut from the half-shaft. Discard — this nut is single-use and must be replaced.⚠Axle nut is CRITICAL torque (250 Nm). It will be very tight — ensure the vehicle is stable on stands.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 4Separate steering and suspension links from the knuckleDisconnect the outer tie rod end from the steering arm using a press-style separator. Separate the upper ball joint (or upper control arm pinch bolt, per OEM design) from the knuckle. Support the lower control arm with a jack — do not let the air spring/strut hang under load. Refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the exact Cybertruck front suspension geometry.⚠Steer-by-wire rack can move if powered. Confirm the 48V system remains disconnected throughout this step.ℹ️Mark alignment positions before disturbing any eccentric/cam bolts.
- 5Free the half-shaft from the hubPush the outer CV/half-shaft splines inboard out of the hub bore. If seized, use a hub puller — do not strike the shaft end with a steel hammer. Support the half-shaft so the inner joint is not over-extended.
- 6Remove the knuckle (recommended) or prepare for in-vehicle pressFor a press-in bearing, the cleanest method is to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle for bench pressing. Remove the lower ball joint pinch bolt / nut and separate the lower joint, then lift the knuckle off the half-shaft and out of the suspension. If using an in-vehicle bearing press tool, leave the knuckle in place but ensure the half-shaft is fully retracted.
- 7Remove the hub flange from the bearingPlace the knuckle in a press or fixture. Using the appropriate driver, press the wheel hub flange out of the inner bearing race. Note: the inner race often remains stuck on the hub flange and must be removed with a bearing splitter or puller before reinstallation.
- 8Remove the bearing retaining ring(s) and press out the old bearingUsing internal snap ring pliers, remove the bearing retaining ring(s) from the knuckle bore. Support the knuckle in the press with the correct cups so the bearing is pressed out from the hub side toward the inboard side (or per OEM direction). Do not press on the inner race during removal.
- 9Clean and inspect the knuckle boreThoroughly clean the bearing bore with solvent and inspect for scoring, cracks, or out-of-round wear. Any damage requires knuckle replacement. Lightly lubricate the bore with assembly lube before installing the new bearing.
- 10Press in the new bearingPress the new bearing squarely into the bore using a driver that contacts ONLY the outer race. Press until fully seated against the shoulder. Install new internal snap ring(s)/retaining ring(s) and verify they are fully seated in the groove.⚠Pressing on the inner race will destroy the new bearing. Use a cup that contacts the outer race only.
- 11Press the hub flange into the new bearingSupport the new bearing on its INNER race (using the proper support cup) and press the hub flange in from the wheel side until fully seated. Spin the hub by hand to confirm smooth rotation with no roughness.
- 12Reinstall the knuckle and reconnect suspension/steeringReinstall the knuckle onto the lower ball joint, upper joint/control arm, and tie rod end. Slide the half-shaft splines back through the hub. Torque all suspension and steering fasteners to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.Torque specHub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
- 13Install new axle nutInstall a NEW axle nut and torque to specification. Install a new cotter pin or stake the nut as applicable. Confirm the half-shaft is fully seated.⚠️An under-torqued axle nut can allow the hub to separate. This is a CRITICAL fastener.Torque specAxle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
- 14Reinstall ABS sensor, rotor, and caliperReinstall the wheel speed sensor and torque its bolt. Reinstall the rotor and caliper assembly, torquing the caliper bracket bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Reseat the wheel speed sensor harness in all OEM clips.Torque specABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
- 15Reinstall wheel and lower vehicleMount the wheel and hand-snug the lug nuts. Lower the vehicle to the ground and final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts140 Nm (103 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery using insulated tools.
- Exit Jack/Service Mode on the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to self-level.
- Pump the brake pedal until firm before driving.
- Clear any chassis/ABS DTCs that may have set during disassembly.
- Recommended: have a Tesla-capable alignment shop verify front alignment after any tie rod or knuckle disturbance — steer-by-wire still relies on correct toe/camber for tracking and tire wear.
Verification
- Spin the wheel by hand (off the ground) — listen for any roughness, grinding, or play. New bearing should be silent and smooth.
- Grasp the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and check for any rocking play — there should be none.
- Confirm no ABS, stability control, or steering fault icons remain on the touchscreen after a key cycle.
- Test drive at low speed first; verify no humming/growling that changes with cornering load (classic bearing symptom).
- Re-check wheel lug torque after ~50 miles.
- While the vehicle is in service, take the opportunity to verify Tesla's recommended service intervals: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin filter every 2 years, drive unit gear oil per Tesla's revised guidance (not 'lifetime'), and battery coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi.