Replacement of an inner tie rod end on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Cyberbeast. Note: Cybertruck uses steer-by-wire with a conventional steering rack at the front axle — the inner tie rod still threads into the rack, but post-repair calibration of the steering system is required in addition to a standard alignment.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Inner tie rod end (manufacturer-specified for Cybertruck Tri Motor) × 1 — Tesla OEM Cybertruck inner tie rod — confirm via VIN
• New cotter pin for tie rod castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec cotter pin
• Steering rack boot clamps (if damaged on removal) × 2 — OEM-spec clamp set

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery per Tesla service documentation for Cybertruck (location and procedure differ from 12V S/3/X/Y — confirm via service manual).
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal on the 800V system.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Activate Jack Mode / Service Mode through the center display BEFORE disconnecting the LV battery, so the air suspension is disabled and will not attempt to re-level.
7. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the affected side while the vehicle is still on the ground.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle and support it on jack stands rated for the Cybertruck's weight. Do not rely on the air suspension or jack alone.
10. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
11. Turn the steering to full lock away from the work side to improve access to the inner tie rod (with LV disconnected, the rack will be free to rotate by hand via the outer tie rod / knuckle).
12. Mark the position of the outer tie rod on its threads with a paint pen, and/or measure and record the exposed thread length so toe can be returned close to its original setting before alignment.

Procedure

1. 1

   Separate the outer tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin from the outer tie rod castle nut and discard it. Loosen and remove the castle nut. Using a press-style ball joint separator (preferred over a pickle fork to avoid damaging the boot), separate the outer tie rod taper from the steering knuckle. Support the outer tie rod so it does not hang by anything.
   ⚠Do not strike the knuckle or any stainless body panel with a hammer. Use the proper separator tool.
2. 2

   Loosen the outer tie rod jam/lock nut
   Loosen the lock nut between the outer tie rod end and the inner tie rod shaft. Do NOT unthread the outer tie rod from the inner shaft yet — you will use the recorded position to preserve approximate toe.
3. 3

   Unthread the outer tie rod from the inner tie rod
   Counting turns (or referencing your marked position), unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner tie rod shaft. Record the exact number of turns so the new assembly can be set to the same starting toe before alignment.
4. 4

   Release the steering rack boot
   Loosen and slide back the outer clamp on the steering rack boot, then loosen the inner clamp. Carefully slide the boot inboard or off the rack housing to expose the inner tie rod ball housing where it threads into the rack. Inspect the boot for tears; replace if damaged.
   ⚠A torn or improperly reseated boot will allow contamination into the rack and rapid failure. Replace if there is any doubt.
5. 5

   Remove the inner tie rod from the steering rack
   Using the appropriate inner tie rod tool (crow's-foot style that grips the flats of the inner tie rod housing), unthread the inner tie rod from the rack. Hold the rack shaft from rotating using flats provided by the manufacturer — do NOT clamp the rack shaft itself in a way that could damage the sealing surface or internal teeth.
   ⚠️Do not allow the rack shaft to rotate or be pulled outward forcefully. Damage to the rack internals on a steer-by-wire Cybertruck can require full rack replacement and recalibration.
6. 6

   Inspect rack threads and sealing area
   Inspect the rack shaft threads for damage, debris, or thread locker residue. Clean as required. Inspect the rack boot, clamps, and inner ball housing seat. Confirm the new inner tie rod matches the old one in length, thread pitch, and ball housing dimensions before installation.
7. 7

   Install the new inner tie rod
   Thread the new inner tie rod into the steering rack by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten using the inner tie rod tool. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for the inner tie rod-to-rack torque, as this value is not in the verified list and must not be guessed.
   ⚠Inner tie rod-to-rack torque is critical and rack-specific. Do not assume a generic value.
8. 8

   Reseat the steering rack boot
   Slide the boot back into position, ensuring it is seated in its grooves on both the rack housing and the inner tie rod shaft. Install new clamps if the originals were single-use or damaged. Confirm the boot is not twisted — a twisted boot will tear in service.
9. 9

   Reinstall the outer tie rod end
   Thread the outer tie rod end onto the new inner tie rod the same number of turns recorded during disassembly to return toe close to its original setting. Snug the lock nut but do NOT final-torque it yet — final torque is set after alignment.
10. 10

    Reconnect the outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
    Insert the outer tie rod taper into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. Install a NEW cotter pin — never reuse the old one. If the castle slots do not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never loosen) to the next slot, within spec.
    ⚠️Reusing a cotter pin on a steering joint can cause it to fail and result in loss of steering. Always use new.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Snug the lug nuts in a star pattern.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque the wheel lug nuts to specification in a star pattern. (See Wheel Lug Nuts torque.)
4. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery per Tesla Cybertruck procedure.
5. Exit Jack Mode and allow the air suspension to re-level.
6. Drive the vehicle ONLY the minimum distance required to reach an alignment rack — steer-by-wire calibration may be incomplete until performed.
7. Perform a four-wheel alignment (Cybertruck has rear steering — a 4-wheel alignment is mandatory).
8. After alignment is complete and the outer tie rod position is finalized, torque the outer tie rod lock nut (Tie Rod Lock Nut) while preventing the inner shaft from twisting.
9. Have the steer-by-wire system calibrated/zeroed using Tesla service tooling. This is required after any steering component replacement on Cybertruck.

Verification

• Confirm no play at the inner tie rod by grasping the inner tie rod through the boot and attempting to move it radially — there should be no perceptible movement separate from the rack shaft.
• Confirm the rack boot is seated, not twisted, and clamps are secure.
• Confirm a NEW cotter pin is installed at the outer tie rod castle nut and its legs are bent per service procedure.
• Confirm the outer tie rod lock nut was torqued AFTER alignment to the Tie Rod Lock Nut spec (68 Nm / 50 lb-ft).
• Verify no warning messages on the center display related to steering, steer-by-wire, or air suspension after a key cycle.
• Test drive at low speed in a safe area first: confirm centered yoke, equal lock-to-lock effort, and no abnormal noises before highway use.
• Note for the owner: this Cybertruck has no scheduled chassis service, but Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years and battery coolant inspection at 4 years / 50,000 mi — flag these if due.

More procedures for this vehicle