Wheel Bearing Hub - Front

Replace the front wheel bearing hub assembly on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Cyberbeast Tri Motor. The Cybertruck uses a unitized hub/bearing assembly bolted to the steering knuckle with the half-shaft passing through it; due to the truck's mass (~6,800 lbs) and steer-by-wire front geometry, proper torque on the axle nut and hub bolts is critical for safety.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front wheel bearing hub assembly × 1 — Tesla Cybertruck front hub/bearing assembly — OEM only
• New axle nut and/or cotter pin (single-use) × 1 — OEM-spec staked nut or castle nut with new cotter pin
• Hub mounting bolts (if specified single-use by Tesla) × 4 — OEM-spec hub bolts

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery (Cybertruck uses a 48V LV architecture, NOT 12V). Refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the 48V battery location and proper disconnect sequence — the connector and terminal hardware differ from earlier Tesla models.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage (800V on Cybertruck) and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting: enable Jack Mode / Service Mode on the touchscreen to disable the air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen (do not remove) the front wheel lug nuts while the truck is on the ground.
8. While on the ground, with an assistant firmly on the brake pedal, break loose the front axle nut — it is at very high torque and is far easier to crack loose with the wheel still loaded.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle using the manufacturer-specified jacking points and support on rated jack stands. Confirm stability before going under the truck.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front wheel
   Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel off. Set it aside on its face to avoid scratching the finish. Inspect the wheel hub face and rotor for obvious damage now while access is good.
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Locate the wheel speed sensor on the steering knuckle. Release its harness clips from the knuckle and upper control arm routing, then unbolt the sensor from the knuckle. Set it aside out of the work area. Do not pull on the wire — extract by the sensor body.
   ⚠ABS sensors are fragile. If it does not slide out easily, gently rotate it free — do not pry against the magnetic tip.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove brake caliper and caliper bracket
   Unbolt the brake caliper from its bracket (or unbolt the caliper bracket from the knuckle, depending on access) and support the caliper assembly with a bungee or wire from the upper control arm. Do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the caliper bracket bolts from the knuckle and set the bracket aside.
   ⚠Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is off — the pistons may extend and unseat.
4. 4

   Remove brake rotor
   Remove any rotor retention screws if present and slide the rotor off the hub. If the rotor is rust-bonded to the hub face, tap evenly around the friction surface with a soft-faced hammer — never strike the hat or the hub flange.
5. 5

   Remove axle nut
   If the axle nut was only cracked loose earlier, remove it now. If it is a staked/peened nut, do not reuse — it must be replaced. If it is a castellated nut with a cotter pin, discard the cotter pin.
   ⚠Single-use fastener — always install a new axle nut and/or new cotter pin on reassembly.
6. 6

   Separate the half-shaft from the hub
   Push the outer CV stub through the hub splines. If it is seized, use the manufacturer-specified puller or tap the end of the stub with a brass drift — never strike the threaded tip directly with a steel hammer. Once free, support the half-shaft with wire or a stand so it does not hang on the inner joint. There is no need to disconnect the inner CV at the differential for hub replacement on most cases — verify clearance to swing the shaft clear of the hub.
   ⚠If the inner CV must be disconnected for clearance, torque the CV Bolts to spec on reassembly with threadlocker.
7. 7

   Unbolt the wheel bearing hub assembly
   From the back side of the knuckle, remove the hub mounting bolts (typically four). Note the orientation of the hub (ABS tone ring direction, harness clip position) before pulling it free. Tap the hub body with a soft-faced hammer if it is corroded into the knuckle bore. Remove the hub assembly.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
8. 8

   Clean the knuckle bore and mating surfaces
   Wire-brush rust and debris from the knuckle bore and bolt holes. Clean the CV stub splines. A clean, flat mating surface is essential — any debris will preload the new bearing unevenly and cause early failure.
9. 9

   Install the new wheel bearing hub assembly
   Position the new hub in the correct orientation (tone ring / sensor port aligned). Apply threadlocker to the hub bolts only if specified by the new hub's instructions. Start all bolts by hand, then tighten in a cross pattern in two stages to final torque.
   ⚠Do not use an impact wrench for final torque on the hub bolts — use a calibrated torque wrench.
   Torque spec

   Wheel Bearing Hub Bolts110 Nm (81 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall the half-shaft and axle nut
    Slide the CV stub through the new hub splines. Install a NEW axle nut. Snug it, but do not final-torque until the wheel is back on the ground (or have an assistant firmly on the brake to lock the rotor). Final-torque the axle nut to spec, then either install a new cotter pin or stake the nut into the shaft groove per the nut style supplied.
    ⚠️An improperly torqued or unstaked axle nut can back off and allow the wheel to separate. This is a CRITICAL fastener.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall brake rotor and caliper bracket
    Slide the rotor onto the new hub. Install rotor retention screws if used. Reinstall the caliper bracket to the knuckle with threadlocker on the bolts and torque to spec. Reinstall the caliper onto the bracket and torque per the Tesla Service Manual (caliper-to-bracket guide pin/bolt torque is not in the verified data — refer to OEM specification).
12. 12

    Reinstall ABS / wheel speed sensor
    Insert the sensor into the knuckle bore, ensuring it is fully seated against the tone ring face. Install and torque the retaining bolt. Re-clip the harness into all original routing points so it cannot rub on the rotor or CV boot.
    Torque spec

    ABS Sensor Bolt10 Nm (7 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall the wheel
    Mount the wheel and install lug nuts hand-tight in a star pattern. Lower the truck so the tire just contacts the ground (loaded but not fully weighted), then torque the lug nuts to spec in a star pattern. Lower fully.

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery per the Tesla Service Manual sequence.
2. Re-enter the vehicle, wake the system, and confirm the touchscreen shows no air suspension or ABS faults. Exit Service/Jack Mode.
3. Allow the air suspension to self-level — verify ride height appears even side-to-side at the front.
4. With the vehicle in P and brake firmly applied, cycle the steering yoke lock-to-lock several times. Because steering is by-wire, listen/feel for any abnormal noise from the front hub area.
5. Recheck wheel lug nut torque after the first 50 miles of driving.

Verification

• Drive at low speed (5-15 mph) in an open area and listen for hub roar, growl, or grinding — a properly installed bearing should be silent.
• Accelerate to ~40 mph on a smooth road. Gently sway the steering left/right to load each front bearing in turn. Any rumble that changes with steering input indicates a bearing issue or improper axle nut torque.
• Confirm no ABS, traction control, or steer-by-wire warning lights remain on the touchscreen. The Cybertruck will typically clear wheel speed sensor faults after a short drive cycle once the sensor sees valid pulses.
• After the first short drive, recheck the axle nut staking/cotter pin is intact and the hub area is at normal temperature (a hot hub indicates over-torque or a bad install).
• Note: while you have the front wheels off, this is a good time to check brake fluid condition — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.

More procedures for this vehicle