Replace a single front brake rotor on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Dual Motor AWD. The Cybertruck uses large front brakes with a fixed/floating caliper assembly; this is a standard friction-brake job with no HV system involvement.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front brake rotor (Cybertruck front, manufacturer-specified) × 1 — Tesla Cybertruck front rotor — refer to VIN-specific parts catalog
• Rotor set screw (if damaged on removal) × 1 — OEM specification
• Medium-strength threadlocker (blue) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent
• Silicone brake grease (for slide pins, if applicable) × 1 — OEM-spec silicone caliper grease
• Anti-seize compound (for hub-rotor mating face — thin film only) × 1 — Generic nickel anti-seize

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery using insulated tools — Cybertruck uses 48V LV, not 12V. Refer to the Tesla Service Manual for the LV battery location and disconnect sequence on this vehicle.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting: enable Jack Mode / Service Mode on the touchscreen to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts slightly while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points and support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
10. Inspect the brake hose, caliper, pads, and hub for any damage before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and prepare the caliper area
   Visually inspect the caliper, bracket, slide pins (if equipped), and brake hose. Clean accumulated dust with brake parts cleaner — do not use compressed air to blow brake dust. Note routing of any wear sensor or ABS wiring so it can be reattached identically.
2. 2

   Retract caliper piston(s) slightly
   If the caliper design requires it for removal, gently retract the piston(s) using a C-clamp or caliper piston tool, pressing against an old pad. Monitor the brake fluid reservoir — fluid will rise. Remove fluid with a clean syringe if it approaches the MAX line. Do not let it overflow onto paint or the stainless body.
   ⚠Brake fluid damages paint and can stain stainless. Wipe spills immediately with clean water.
3. 3

   Remove the caliper from the bracket
   Remove the caliper-to-bracket fasteners (slide pin bolts on a floating caliper, or caliper bolts on a fixed caliper). Support the caliper with a hanger or bungee — DO NOT let it dangle from the brake hose. If the brake hose is removed at any fitting, plan to bleed the system afterward.
   ⚠Do not stretch or kink the brake hose. Hang the caliper securely.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)

   Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove brake pads
   Remove the brake pads from the bracket, noting the location of any anti-rattle clips, shims, and the wear-sensor pad (if equipped). Inspect pad thickness — replace pads as a pair (per axle) if near the wear limit.
5. 5

   Remove the caliper bracket
   Remove the front caliper bracket bolts from the steering knuckle. These are high-torque fasteners and may have threadlocker — use a breaker bar with a properly fitting socket. Set the bracket aside on a clean surface; do not let it hang from any wiring.
   ⚠Bracket bolts are torqued high (120 Nm) and typically threadlocked. Apply steady force to avoid rounding the head.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the rotor set screw and rotor
   Remove the small rotor retaining set screw(s) using the correct bit — these strip easily. If the rotor is seized to the hub, thread two bolts evenly into the threaded jacking holes (if present) and tighten alternately to push the rotor off. Do NOT strike the rotor with a steel hammer near the wheel-speed sensor or hub face.
   ⚠Do not strike the hub, knuckle, or any aluminum/stainless surface with a steel hammer. Use a dead-blow if persuasion is needed, and only on the rotor hat.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Clean the hub mating face
   Wire-brush the hub face to remove all rust, scale, and old anti-seize. The new rotor must seat flat — even small debris causes lateral runout and pedal pulsation. Apply only a thin film of nickel anti-seize to the hub center and mating face; keep all anti-seize off the friction surface and wheel studs (lugs go on dry per Tesla recommendation).
   ⚠Excess anti-seize on the hub face will squeeze out and contaminate the rotor friction surface.
8. 8

   Install the new rotor
   Wipe the new rotor's friction surfaces with brake parts cleaner to remove shipping oil. Install over the hub, align the set screw hole, and install the set screw. Torque to spec — do not overtighten; these strip very easily.
   Torque spec

   Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the caliper bracket. Apply blue threadlocker to the bracket bolt threads if the OEM fasteners are not pre-coated. Torque to the front caliper bracket bolt specification.
2. Reinstall brake pads with all clips, shims, and the wear sensor in their original positions.
3. Reinstall the caliper. If equipped with slide pins, apply silicone brake grease to the pins and boots before reassembly. Torque slide pin bolts (or caliper bolts, as applicable) to specification.
4. Reattach any wheel-speed sensor or pad-wear sensor wiring to its original routing and clips.
5. Before reinstalling the wheel, pump the brake pedal multiple times with the LV system still disconnected — this seats the pads against the new rotor. The pedal should become firm.
6. Reinstall the wheel. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to the wheel lug nut specification. Re-torque after the first 50 miles of driving.
7. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
8. Reconnect the 48V LV battery using insulated tools.
9. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode and allow the air suspension to re-level.

Verification

• With the vehicle running and brake pedal pressed, confirm the pedal is firm and does not sink. If spongy, suspect air in the lines and bleed the system at the bleeder screw to specification.
• Check the touchscreen for any ABS, brake, traction control, or chassis warnings. Cybertruck integrates braking with regen and steer-by-wire stability — any fault here must be resolved before driving.
• Perform a low-speed brake test in a safe, empty area. Listen for grinding or scraping that would indicate a missed shim, stuck pad, or hub-face debris.
• At 20–30 mph, perform several moderate stops to bed in the new rotor against the existing pads. Avoid hard stops for the first ~200 miles.
• Re-torque wheel lug nuts after 50 miles in a star pattern to spec.
• Confirm brake fluid level is at MAX with the cap clean. Note: Tesla recommends a brake fluid flush every 2 years regardless of mileage — log the date and plan service accordingly.
• Inspect for any fluid leaks at the caliper, hose, and bleeder over the next several drives.

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