Brake Caliper Rebuild - Front

Rebuild the front brake calipers on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Dual Motor by removing the calipers, replacing seals/pistons/boots with a rebuild kit, reassembling, and bleeding the brake system. The Cybertruck uses large fixed-style front calipers with substantial pad area to handle the truck's ~6,600 lb curb weight.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front caliper rebuild kit (piston seals, dust boots, bleeder cap, slide pin boots if applicable) × 2 — OEM Cybertruck front caliper rebuild kit
• Replacement caliper pistons (if scored or corroded) — OEM specification
• Copper crush washers for brake hose banjo (if equipped) × 4 — OEM specification
• Threadlocker, medium-strength (blue) × 1 — Loctite 243 or equivalent
• Silicone brake caliper grease × 1 — Synthetic silicone caliper lubricant

Fluids

• DOT 3 Brake Fluid (sealed container) — 1 qt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the electric parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Enable Jack Mode on the touchscreen (Controls → Service → Jack Mode) to disable air suspension self-leveling.
4. Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery per Tesla service procedure. The Cybertruck uses 48V — not 12V — so verify polarity and connector type before disconnecting.
5. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are 800V high-voltage and lethal.
6. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
8. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified pinch-weld / frame jack points and support on jack stands rated for the Cybertruck's weight.
9. Remove both front wheels and set aside on the stainless side (face down on a soft surface to avoid scratching).
10. Place a drain pan under each caliper and have a sealed container of fresh DOT 3 brake fluid ready.

Procedure

1. 1

   Clamp the brake hose and disconnect the line
   Apply a brake hose clamp to the flexible front brake hose to minimize fluid loss. Place a drain pan under the caliper. Using a flare-nut/line wrench, loosen the hydraulic line fitting at the caliper. Remove the fitting and immediately cap the open line to prevent contamination. Discard the copper crush washers if a banjo-style fitting is used — these are one-time-use.
   ⚠Use a line wrench, not an open-end wrench — these fittings round off easily and require replacement of the entire hard line if damaged.
   Torque spec

   Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Remove the caliper from the bracket
   Support the caliper to prevent strain on any remaining lines. Remove the two caliper bolts that secure the caliper to its bracket. Lift the caliper off the rotor.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Remove the caliper bracket (optional, for full rebuild access)
   If servicing the bracket or replacing slide pin hardware, remove the two caliper bracket bolts that secure the bracket to the steering knuckle. Set the bracket on a clean bench.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Eject the caliper pistons
   With the caliper on a bench and the brake fluid drained, place a wooden block inside the caliper opening to cushion the pistons. Use a piston ejector tool or apply controlled compressed air through the brake line port to push each piston out of its bore. Eject pistons gradually and evenly — never let one piston shoot free while the others remain seated.
   ⚠️Keep fingers clear of piston bores during air-ejection — pistons can launch with enough force to amputate.
5. 5

   Remove dust boots and piston seals
   Using a non-marring seal pick, carefully extract the dust boots from each bore. Then remove the square-cut piston seals from the seal grooves inside each bore. Do NOT scratch the bore walls — any scoring on the bore surface ruins the caliper and requires replacement.
   ⚠If any bore shows pitting, scoring, or corrosion, the caliper body must be replaced — do not attempt to hone a brake caliper bore.
6. 6

   Clean and inspect
   Wash the caliper body, pistons, and bracket thoroughly in fresh brake cleaner. Blow dry with compressed air. Inspect each piston for plating wear, pitting, or corrosion — replace any piston that is not mirror-smooth. Inspect the bores for the same. Inspect the bleeder screw for corrosion and clear passages.
7. 7

   Install new piston seals and dust boots
   Lubricate the new square-cut piston seals with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid and seat them in the bore grooves, ensuring they are not twisted. Install new dust boots into the outer groove of each bore. Lubricate each piston with DOT 3 brake fluid and press it squarely into its bore by hand until fully seated. Seat the dust boot lip onto the piston groove around its full circumference.
   ⚠Use ONLY DOT 3 brake fluid as assembly lubricant. Petroleum-based lubricants will swell and destroy the rubber seals.
8. 8

   Service slide pins (if applicable)
   If the front caliper uses sliding pins, clean each pin thoroughly, inspect the boot for tears, and apply silicone brake grease to the pin shaft before reinstalling. Replace torn boots from the rebuild kit.
   Torque spec

   Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reinstall the caliper bracket (if removed)
   Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bracket bolt threads. Install the bracket to the steering knuckle and torque the bolts.
   Torque spec

   Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall the caliper
    Confirm pads are seated correctly in the bracket. Place the rebuilt caliper over the rotor and align with the bracket mounting holes. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the caliper bolt threads, install both bolts, and torque to spec.
    Torque spec

    Caliper Bolts88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect the brake line
    Install new copper crush washers (if banjo-style) on the brake line fitting. Thread the fitting into the caliper by hand to avoid cross-threading, then torque using a line wrench. Remove the brake hose clamp.
    Torque spec

    Line Fittings20 Nm (15 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Bleed the brakes
    Top off the brake fluid reservoir with fresh DOT 3. Bleed each caliper at the bleeder screw using a pressure or vacuum bleeder until clear, bubble-free fluid flows. The Cybertruck's electronic brake booster may require a Service Mode bleed routine to cycle the iBooster — perform this if available. Bleed sequence: longest line first (typically passenger rear → driver rear → passenger front → driver front, but follow Tesla Service Manual sequence). Torque the bleeder screws when finished.
    ⚠Never let the master cylinder reservoir run dry during bleeding — air ingestion will require a full electronic booster bleed routine.
    Torque spec

    Bleeder Screw10 Nm (7 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall both front wheels. Hand-thread all lug nuts before applying any torque.
2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
3. Torque wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 140 Nm (103 lb-ft).
4. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery.
5. Top off the brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with fresh DOT 3.
6. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow air suspension to re-level.

Verification

• With the vehicle powered on but stationary, pump the brake pedal — it should feel firm within 2-3 strokes. A spongy or sinking pedal indicates air in the system; re-bleed.
• Inspect every fitting (line, bleeder, banjo) for fluid weeping after pedal application.
• Check the touchscreen for any brake system, ABS, or stability control alerts. Clear codes via Service Mode if present.
• Perform a low-speed (10-15 mph) brake test in an empty area, then progressively higher-speed stops, listening for drag, pulsation, or pull.
• After 50-100 miles, re-check torque on caliper bolts and caliper bracket bolts, and re-inspect for fluid leaks.
• Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years — log this rebuild date and schedule the next full flush accordingly.
• If the brake pedal cannot be made firm, or if any iBooster fault appears, STOP driving the vehicle and consult a Tesla-certified technician — the electronic booster requires Tesla Toolbox to fully bleed.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

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