Tie Rod Assembly

Replacement of an outer tie rod assembly on a 2024 Cybertruck Dual Motor. Note: this vehicle uses steer-by-wire with no mechanical column linkage, but the rack still drives conventional tie rods to the front knuckles. A four-wheel alignment is mandatory after this job.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Outer tie rod end assembly (Cybertruck-specific) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Cybertruck front tie rod end — verify by VIN
• Cotter pin for castle nut × 1 — OEM-spec replacement cotter pin (do not reuse)

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery (Cybertruck uses 48V LV architecture — confirm battery location and disconnect procedure in the Tesla Service Manual for this VIN). Use insulated tools.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Before lifting, place the vehicle in Jack Mode / Service Mode via the touchscreen to disable air suspension self-leveling.
7. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts on the affected side while tires are on the ground.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points and support on rated jack stands.
10. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.
11. Steer the wheels (electronically, with vehicle awake briefly if needed, then power down again) so the tie rod end is accessible — or rotate the knuckle by hand once the wheel is off.

Procedure

1. 1

   Document existing tie rod position
   Before loosening anything, mark the threads of the inner tie rod where the lock nut currently sits, OR measure and record the exposed thread length with calipers. This gives you a starting reference so the new tie rod end can be threaded to approximately the same length, preserving rough toe until alignment.
2. 2

   Clean the tie rod threads and castle nut area
   Wire-brush the exposed inner tie rod threads and the castle nut on the outer tie rod end. Apply penetrating oil to the lock nut and castle nut. Allow it to soak for several minutes.
3. 3

   Remove the cotter pin
   Using needle-nose pliers, straighten and withdraw the cotter pin from the castle nut on the outer tie rod end stud where it passes through the steering knuckle. Discard — do not reuse.
   ⚠Wear eye protection — old cotter pins can snap when straightened.
4. 4

   Loosen and remove the castle nut
   Hold the tie rod stud from spinning if necessary (most have a hex or Torx feature on the end of the stud) and remove the castle nut from the tie rod end stud.
5. 5

   Separate the tie rod end from the steering knuckle
   Using a proper tie rod end puller / ball joint separator tool, press the tapered stud out of the knuckle. Do NOT use a pickle fork — it will tear the boot of any reusable component and can damage the knuckle bore. Support the tie rod so it does not drop suddenly.
   ⚠Do not strike the knuckle or any stainless body component with a hammer.
6. 6

   Loosen the tie rod lock nut
   Hold the inner tie rod shaft on its wrench flats with one wrench, and loosen the lock nut (where the outer tie rod end threads onto the inner shaft) with another. Back the lock nut off slightly but leave it on the threads as a thread-count reference.
7. 7

   Count and record turns while removing the old tie rod end
   Slowly unthread the outer tie rod end from the inner shaft, counting full turns until it comes free. Record this number. This is your second alignment-preserving reference in addition to the marks from Step 1.
8. 8

   Install the new tie rod end to the same thread depth
   Thread the new outer tie rod end onto the inner shaft using the same number of turns recorded in Step 7. Confirm it lines up with the mark made in Step 1. Snug the lock nut by hand against the new tie rod end — final torque happens AFTER alignment.
   ℹ️Do not final-torque the lock nut yet. It must be set after the alignment shop adjusts toe.
9. 9

   Insert the tie rod stud into the knuckle and torque the castle nut
   Seat the tapered stud of the new tie rod end into the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to specification. If the cotter pin hole does not align, tighten (never loosen) further until the next slot lines up. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs over per standard practice.
   ⚠️Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin hole — always tighten to the next slot.
   Torque spec

   Tie Rod End Castle Nut55 Nm (41 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall the wheel
    Mount the front wheel and start all lug nuts by hand. Snug them in a star pattern, then lower the vehicle so the tire just contacts the ground before final torque.
11. 11

    Final lug nut torque
    With the wheel bearing weight on the ground (or at minimum loaded enough to prevent rotation), torque the lug nuts to specification in a star/cross pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Lower the vehicle and exit Jack Mode
    Lower the vehicle fully and remove jack stands. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery. Power up the vehicle and exit Jack/Service Mode so air suspension resumes normal operation. Allow the suspension to self-level.
13. 13

    Drive carefully to alignment
    Drive at low speed only to an alignment rack. Toe is approximate at this point. Do NOT highway-drive prior to alignment.
    ⚠Steer-by-wire centering and any required calibrations may be performed by Tesla service software. If the yoke center position feels off after this repair, it likely needs a steering angle / rack calibration via Tesla diagnostics.
14. 14

    Final lock nut torque after alignment
    Once the alignment technician has set toe and is satisfied with the reading, hold the inner tie rod shaft on its flats and torque the tie rod lock nut to specification. Recheck toe after torquing in case the act of locking shifted the adjustment.
    Torque spec

    Tie Rod Lock Nut68 Nm (50 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Confirm the new cotter pin is installed and bent over.
2. Confirm castle nut is at final torque and not backed off to align the pin hole.
3. Confirm lock nut is at final torque AFTER alignment, not before.
4. Confirm wheel lug nuts are at final torque after wheel is loaded.
5. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery if not already done; verify no chassis or steering warning lights remain on the touchscreen.
6. Exit Jack/Service Mode and allow the air suspension to return to normal ride height.

Verification

• Four-wheel alignment performed and printout retained — toe within Tesla spec for Cybertruck Dual Motor.
• No steering, suspension, or stability-control warnings on the touchscreen after a key-cycle.
• Steer-by-wire feedback feels centered with the yoke at center; if not, a steering angle sensor / rack calibration via Tesla service software is required.
• Test drive at low speed first: confirm no clunking, no pull, and no looseness on-center. Then road-test at higher speed.
• Visually inspect the new tie rod end after the test drive — boot intact, no grease weeping, cotter pin still in place, lock nut tight against the tie rod end.
• Note: this job is not on a Tesla service interval, but while the front wheels are off it is a good opportunity to inspect brake pad thickness and, if it has been 2+ years, plan a brake fluid service (Tesla recommends every 2 years).

More procedures for this vehicle