Wheel Bearing - Press-In Rear

Replacement of a press-in rear wheel bearing/hub assembly on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Dual Motor AWD. Because the Cybertruck uses a 48V low-voltage architecture and steer-by-wire systems, follow the Tesla-specific shutdown sequence before beginning.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear wheel bearing / hub assembly (manufacturer-specified for Cybertruck) × 1 — OEM Tesla Cybertruck rear hub/bearing — verify by VIN
• Axle nut (single-use) × 1 — OEM single-use axle nut or stake nut per service manual
• Cotter pin (if axle nut design uses one) × 1 — OEM cotter pin
• Hub mounting bolts (replace if specified as single-use) × 4 — OEM specification — verify single-use status

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery (Cybertruck-specific — NOT 12V). Locate per the Tesla Service Manual and follow the documented LV shutdown sequence.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Enter the touchscreen Service Mode and place the air suspension into Jack/Service Mode before lifting. Confirm the suspension will not auto-level.
7. Loosen (do not remove) the rear wheel lug nuts and the axle nut while the vehicle is on the ground — the axle nut requires very high breakaway torque.
8. Lift the rear of the vehicle using factory-specified jacking points and support on jack stands rated for Cybertruck weight. Never rely on the jack alone.

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove the rear wheel
   Fully remove the lug nuts and pull the wheel/tire assembly off the hub. Set aside on a protected surface — Cybertruck wheels are heavy.
2. 2

   Remove the brake caliper and rotor
   Unbolt the rear brake caliper and support it with mechanic's wire from the suspension — do NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Remove the caliper bracket if required for hub access, then slide the rotor off the hub. Torque to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual for caliper and bracket fasteners on reassembly.
   ⚠Do not depress the brake pedal while the caliper is off — pistons may extend.
3. 3

   Disconnect the ABS / wheel speed sensor
   Trace the ABS sensor harness from the hub upward to its connector. Release the harness retainers and unplug the connector. If the sensor is integrated into the hub assembly, leave it in place; if it is a separate bolt-in sensor, remove the sensor bolt and pull the sensor straight out to avoid breaking the tip.
   ℹ️ABS sensor tips are brittle. If seized, do not pry against the tip — work the sensor body free.
   Torque spec

   ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the axle nut
   Remove the cotter pin or break the stake on the axle nut, then fully remove the nut. Discard — this is a single-use fastener. Push the half-shaft splined end inward slightly to free it from the hub. If it is stuck, use a hub puller; do not hammer the half-shaft.
   ⚠The vehicle must be supported on stands — never break the axle nut free with the wheel in the air without proper bracing.
5. 5

   Separate the half-shaft from the hub
   Carefully push the outer CV stub out of the hub splines. Support the half-shaft horizontally with mechanic's wire — do not let it dangle. If the inner joint must be disconnected from the differential or drive unit output to gain clearance, STOP — that procedure is outside the scope of this hub job and may involve drive-unit-adjacent components.
6. 6

   Remove the hub/bearing assembly mounting bolts
   From the inboard side of the rear knuckle, remove the bolts securing the hub/bearing assembly to the knuckle. Note bolt orientation and any shims or backing plates for reinstallation.
   Torque spec

   Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Extract the press-in bearing/hub from the knuckle
   Using the manufacturer-specified bearing puller set, draw the press-in hub/bearing out of the knuckle bore. If corrosion has seized the unit, apply penetrating oil and allow it to soak. Do NOT strike the knuckle or hub with a steel hammer — use the puller. If the bearing inner race remains on the half-shaft stub or the knuckle, use the appropriate race-removal collet from the bearing service kit.
   ⚠Never heat the knuckle with a torch — heat-affected aluminum/steel structural components must not be thermally stressed on this vehicle.
8. 8

   Clean and inspect the knuckle bore
   Wire-brush the knuckle bore and mating surfaces clean. Inspect for scoring, cracks, or ovaling. A damaged bore means the knuckle must be replaced — pressing a new bearing into a worn bore will cause premature failure. Apply a light film of manufacturer-approved anti-seize to the bore (do not over-apply).
9. 9

   Press in the new bearing/hub assembly
   Align the new hub/bearing squarely in the knuckle bore. Using the press-in tool, draw the assembly fully home until it bottoms against the shoulder. Apply force ONLY to the outer race of the bearing — never push through the inner race or the hub flange, which will destroy the new bearing internally.
   ⚠️Pressing on the wrong race ruins the bearing. If you do not have the correct adapters, stop and obtain them.
10. 10

    Install hub mounting bolts
    Reinstall the hub-to-knuckle bolts. Tighten in a cross pattern in two passes, finishing at the verified torque. Replace any bolts marked as single-use per the service manual.
    Torque spec

    Hub Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall the half-shaft and axle nut
    Slide the outer CV stub through the new hub splines. Install a NEW axle nut. With the brake applied (or hub locked with a holding tool), torque the axle nut to specification, then secure with a new cotter pin or stake the nut as the design requires.
    ⚠️The axle nut is CRITICAL. Use a new fastener and verify staking/cotter pin engagement before road use.
    Torque spec

    Axle Nut250 Nm (184 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall ABS sensor, rotor, and caliper
    Reinstall the ABS sensor (if removed) and torque its bolt. Slide the rotor onto the hub, reinstall the caliper bracket and caliper, and route/reconnect the ABS harness. Torque caliper hardware to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual.
    Torque spec

    ABS Sensor Bolt11 Nm (8 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reinstall wheel
    Mount the wheel and hand-thread all lugs. Snug in a star pattern, lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then final-torque in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts175 Nm (129 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Lower the vehicle fully off the jack stands.
2. Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery following the Tesla-specified reconnection sequence.
3. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode on the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to re-level.
4. Cycle the brake pedal several times before driving to seat the caliper pistons.
5. Clear any ABS / stability control faults stored from sensor disconnection — most will self-clear after a short drive cycle, but confirm no warning remains.

Verification

• Confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability warnings on the touchscreen after reconnection.
• Verify the axle nut is properly staked or has a fully seated new cotter pin.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for bearing growl, grinding, or pulsation; then at highway speed, checking that the noise is gone and there is no vibration.
• Re-check wheel lug torque after approximately 50–100 miles (standard practice on heavy EVs).
• Note: this job is unrelated to Tesla's published service intervals (brake fluid every 2 years, cabin filter every 2 years, drive unit fluid 12,500 mi initial then 25k–50k mi, coolant inspection 4 yr / 50k mi). However, while the vehicle is on stands, this is a good opportunity to inspect the rear differential fluid level and rotate tires (Tesla recommends every 6,250 mi).

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

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