drivetrain
Wheel Bearing Hub - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Advanced
Time
1.2 h
Tools
14
Steps
12
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the rear wheel bearing hub assembly on a 2024 Tesla Cybertruck Dual Motor AWD. The Cybertruck uses a pressed/bolted hub design integrated with the rear knuckle and air suspension — work carefully around the 48V low-voltage harness and ABS/wheel speed sensor wiring.
Warnings
⚠️Cybertruck uses a 48V low-voltage architecture — NOT 12V. Disconnecting and handling the LV battery requires 48V-rated insulated tools and gloves. A 48V short can produce a sustained arc and severe burns.
⚠️Never touch, cut, pierce, or pry against any orange high-voltage cabling. The Cybertruck HV system operates at ~800V and is lethal.
⚠Cybertruck is significantly heavier than other Teslas (~6,800+ lb). Use jack stands and a floor jack rated for this weight, and lift only at manufacturer-specified jack points to avoid damaging the stainless exoskeleton or air suspension components.
⚠Air suspension may auto-level or vent when doors are opened or the vehicle is jacked. Place the vehicle in Jack/Service Mode via the touchscreen before lifting to disable auto-leveling.
⚠Steer-by-wire system: do not attempt to manually rotate front wheels with the LV system disconnected and no power applied. (Not directly relevant to rear hub work, but be aware.)
ℹ️The stainless exoskeleton is unforgiving — do not strike body panels with a hammer. Use protective fender covers and avoid prying against painted/stainless surfaces.
Tools required
Breaker bar, 1/2" driveEssential
Axle nut socket (size per OEM spec)Essential
Bungee cord or caliper hangerEssential
Threadlocker (medium-strength, blue)Essential
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Parts
- Rear wheel bearing hub assembly (Cybertruck-specific) × 1 — Tesla OEM rear hub assembly — verify part number against VIN at parts.tesla.com
- Axle nut (single-use; replace if specified by OEM) × 1 — OEM single-use axle nut per Tesla Service Manual
- Hub mounting bolts (replace if specified as single-use) × 4 — OEM hub-to-knuckle bolts
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 48V low-voltage battery using insulated tools and 48V-rated gloves. Note: Cybertruck's LV battery is 48V — NOT 12V like other Teslas. Refer to Tesla Service Manual for exact LV battery location and disconnect sequence.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Engage Jack Mode / Service Mode via the touchscreen to disable air suspension auto-leveling before lifting.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Lift the rear of the vehicle at manufacturer-specified jack points and support on rated jack stands.
- Remove the rear wheel.
Procedure
- 1Remove rear brake caliperDisconnect or unclip the brake pad wear sensor wiring (if equipped) from the caliper. Remove the two caliper bracket bolts securing the caliper assembly to the rear knuckle. Support the caliper with a bungee cord or hanger — DO NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose. Set aside without disconnecting hydraulic lines.⚠Do not press the brake pedal while the caliper is removed — this can extend the piston and damage the seal.
- 2Remove brake rotorRemove any rotor retaining clip or set screw if present. Slide the rear brake rotor off the hub. If corroded in place, apply penetrating oil to the hub-rotor interface and use a soft mallet — do not strike with a steel hammer.
- 3Disconnect ABS / wheel speed sensorLocate the ABS wheel speed sensor on the rear knuckle. Unclip the harness from any retaining clips along the trailing arm. Remove the ABS sensor bolt and carefully extract the sensor from the knuckle. Set aside where it cannot be damaged.⚠ABS sensors are fragile. Do not pry on the sensor body — twist gently to free it from the bore.
- 4Loosen and remove axle nutWith an assistant pressing the brake pedal (or wheel reinstalled and on ground), break loose the rear axle nut using a breaker bar and the correct-size socket. The axle nut torque is very high (200 Nm installed). Remove the axle nut completely once the wheel is off the ground again.⚠The axle nut may be staked or single-use. Inspect for staking/deformation and replace per OEM specification.Torque specAxle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 5Separate halfshaft from hubPush the halfshaft (CV axle) splined stub inward through the hub. If seized, use a soft-faced punch and gentle taps, or a hub puller. Support the halfshaft so it does not hang from the inner CV joint. If clearance is insufficient, you may need to unbolt the inner CV joint flange from the differential output flange — refer to CV Joint Bolts torque if reinstalling.⚠Do not allow the halfshaft to hang by the inner joint — this can damage the CV cage and boot.
- 6Remove hub assembly mounting boltsFrom the back side of the rear knuckle, locate the hub bearing mounting bolts (typically 4) securing the hub assembly to the knuckle. Remove each bolt. Note orientation and any spacers, dust shields, or backing plates.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 7Extract old hub assemblyPull the hub assembly forward out of the knuckle bore. If corroded in place, use a slide hammer with a hub puller adapter. Avoid prying against the knuckle face with steel tools — protect mating surfaces. Inspect the knuckle bore for corrosion or scoring.
- 8Clean and inspect mating surfacesThoroughly wire-brush the knuckle bore and bolt threads. Remove all corrosion and old threadlocker residue. Inspect the knuckle for cracks, elongated bolt holes, or damage. Inspect the halfshaft splines for wear or twisting damage.
- 9Install new hub assemblyPosition the new wheel bearing hub assembly into the knuckle bore, aligning the bolt holes and any backing plate / dust shield. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the hub mounting bolts if specified. Install bolts hand-tight first, then torque in a star pattern to specification.ℹ️Tighten in a star/cross pattern in two stages to seat the hub squarely against the knuckle face.Torque specWheel Bearing Hub Bolts100 Nm (74 lb-ft)
- 10Reinstall halfshaft and axle nutSlide the halfshaft splines through the new hub. Install the axle nut (new, if single-use). Hand-thread first, then torque to specification once the wheel is reinstalled and on the ground (or with a brake-hold assistant). Stake the nut if the OEM design requires staking.Torque specAxle Nut200 Nm (148 lb-ft)
- 11Reinstall ABS sensorClean the ABS sensor bore and sensor tip. Insert the sensor fully into the knuckle and secure with the retaining bolt. Reroute the harness through all original clips to prevent contact with rotating components.
- 12Reinstall brake rotor and caliperSlide the brake rotor onto the new hub. Reinstall the caliper bracket assembly over the rotor and torque the caliper bracket bolts to specification with threadlocker applied. Reconnect any wear sensor harness.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the rear wheel and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground, then torque the axle nut to 200 Nm (148 lb-ft).
- Lower fully and torque the wheel lug nuts to 175 Nm (129 lb-ft) in a star pattern.
- Reconnect the 48V low-voltage battery using insulated tools.
- Exit Service/Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the air suspension to re-level.
- Pump the brake pedal several times to restore caliper piston pressure before driving.
Verification
- With the vehicle running, confirm no ABS, traction control, or stability control warnings appear on the touchscreen. The Cybertruck may require a short drive cycle to clear stored faults.
- Listen for bearing noise (growl/hum) at 25-45 mph that changes with steering load — indicates improper seating or damaged bearing.
- Verify no brake pull or pulsation on a test drive.
- Recheck wheel lug torque after 50-100 miles of driving — Cybertruck's mass accelerates lug seating.
- Confirm air suspension self-levels correctly at all four corners.
- Scan for stored DTCs using a compatible OBD tool. Note: full Cybertruck diagnostic clearing may require Tesla Service — if persistent codes appear, consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- While the vehicle is up, this is a good opportunity to inspect rear differential fluid (Tesla now recommends drive unit fluid service at 12,500 mi initially, then every 25,000-50,000 mi — not 'lifetime' as historically marketed).
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
B0290Heated Steering Wheel CircuitC0021LF Wheel Speed Sensor Range/PerformanceC0022RF Wheel Speed Sensor Range/PerformanceC0035Left Front Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0036Left Front Wheel Speed Signal ErraticC0040Right Front Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0041Right Front Wheel Speed Signal ErraticC0050Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor CircuitC0051Right Rear Wheel Speed Signal ErraticU0229Lost Communication With Heated Steering Wheel ModuleU0314Software Incompatibility With Four Wheel Drive Control ModuleU0414Invalid Data Received From Four Wheel Drive Control Module
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →