Replacement of a front lower ball joint on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance AWD. On this generation, the lower ball joint is integral to the front lower control arm (fore-link / aft-link assembly), so service typically requires control arm replacement rather than a standalone ball joint swap.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm assembly with integral ball joint (manufacturer-specified for 2024 Model 3 Performance) × 1 — Refer to Tesla parts catalog for 2024 Model 3 Performance front lower control arm
• Ball joint castle nut cotter pin (if equipped) × 1 — OEM cotter pin
• New steering knuckle pinch bolt × 1 — Single-use pinch bolt — OEM specification
• New control arm mounting bolts (if specified as single-use) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob carried away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically located behind the right rear seat back panel or under the rear floor depending on build — refer to architecture notes and the Tesla Service Manual to confirm location before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting (Service > Jack Mode) to disable auto-leveling/regen logic.
7. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Loosen the affected front wheel lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground.
9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jack points using approved puck adapters, and support on jack stands.
10. Remove the front wheel.
11. Inspect for any orange cabling, HV connectors, or coolant lines in the work area before proceeding. If present and in the way, STOP.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   With the wheel removed, photograph the lower control arm, ball joint, knuckle, and surrounding components. Verify which ball joint requires service and confirm the lower ball joint on this chassis is integral to the lower control arm. If the ball joint is serviceable separately on your specific build, follow the Tesla Service Manual; otherwise plan to replace the lower control arm assembly.
2. 2

   Disconnect the sway bar end link (if necessary for clearance)
   If the sway bar link interferes with control arm/ball joint access, hold the link stud with an Allen key and remove the nut. Swing the link clear.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Support the lower control arm
   Place a floor jack with a wood block under the lower control arm to support spring/strut load. Do not place the jack under the ball joint itself.
   ⚠The strut/spring assembly is under load. Failure to support the arm can cause sudden movement when the ball joint is separated.
4. 4

   Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Remove the cotter pin (if equipped) and loosen — but do not fully remove — the ball joint nut to protect the threads during separation. Use a proper ball joint separator tool to break the taper free from the knuckle. Once free, remove the nut completely.
   ⚠Do not use a pickle fork on a reusable boot — it will tear the dust boot. Since the arm is being replaced, a pickle fork is acceptable here.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the steering knuckle pinch bolt (if required for arm removal)
   If the lower control arm geometry requires the knuckle to be swung outboard, remove the strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt. The pinch bolt is single-use — discard it. Carefully spread the knuckle pinch slot only enough to free the strut; do not over-pry aluminum components.
   Torque spec

   Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the lower control arm inboard bolts
   Mark the position of any cam/eccentric bolts before removal to aid initial alignment. Remove the inboard control arm mounting bolt(s) at the subframe. Lower the floor jack slowly and remove the control arm assembly from the vehicle.
   ⚠Do not allow the brake caliper or wheel speed sensor harness to hang by its wiring. Support the knuckle/caliper with a bungee or stand.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Compare old and new components
   Place the new control arm assembly next to the old unit. Verify length, bushing orientation, ball joint stud taper, and any included hardware. Confirm any handed (left/right) part is correct for the side being serviced.
8. 8

   Install the new lower control arm
   Position the new control arm into the subframe. Install the inboard bolt(s) hand-tight only at this stage — final torque must occur with the vehicle at ride height. If cam/eccentric bolts were marked, return them to the previous position to preserve a rough alignment.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Reattach the ball joint to the steering knuckle
   Lift the knuckle onto the ball joint stud. Install the ball joint nut and torque to specification. Install a new cotter pin; if the slot does not align, tighten further (never loosen) until the cotter pin can be installed. Bend the cotter pin legs fully.
   ⚠️[CRITICAL] fastener — do not skip the cotter pin and do not reuse the old one.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reinstall the strut pinch bolt (if removed)
    Seat the strut fully into the knuckle. Install a NEW pinch bolt and torque to specification.
    Torque spec

    Pinch Bolt61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reconnect sway bar end link (if disconnected)
    Reinstall the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Reinstall the wheel
    Mount the wheel and snug the lug nuts. Final torque after the vehicle is on the ground.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Lower vehicle and final-torque suspension fasteners at ride height
    Lower the vehicle so full weight is on the wheels. With the suspension at ride height, final-torque the lower control arm inboard bolt(s). Torque the lug nuts in a star pattern.
    ⚠Skipping the at-ride-height torque step will shorten bushing life dramatically.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V/low-voltage battery.
2. Exit Jack Mode and allow the vehicle to fully wake.
3. Verify no warning messages appear on the touchscreen related to suspension, ABS, or steering.
4. Have a four-wheel alignment performed before returning the vehicle to service.
5. Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks and verifying steering returns to center.

Verification

• Confirm the ball joint nut is torqued to 88 Nm (65 lb-ft) and a NEW cotter pin is installed and bent over.
• Confirm the control arm inboard bolts were final-torqued to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft) with the vehicle at ride height.
• Confirm the strut pinch bolt (if disturbed) was replaced with a new bolt and torqued to 61 Nm (45 lb-ft).
• Verify wheel lug nuts torqued to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft) in a star pattern; recheck after 50 miles.
• Inspect the new ball joint boot for tears or pinching after the first drive.
• Confirm a four-wheel alignment was performed and printout is within Tesla 2024 Model 3 Performance spec.
• While the vehicle is on the alignment rack, take the opportunity to check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years), cabin air filter age (every 2 years), and tire rotation interval (every 6,250 mi) — common items overdue on Model 3s in for suspension work.

More procedures for this vehicle