Replacement of the upper ball joint on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance. On Model 3, the upper ball joint is integral to the upper control arm (often called the 'fore link' / 'aft link' depending on side and position) — the ball joint is not serviced separately; the entire upper control arm assembly is replaced.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Upper control arm assembly (includes upper ball joint — Model 3 Performance specific) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified upper control arm for 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD
• New cotter pin for ball joint castle nut × 1 — OEM-specified cotter pin
• New pinch bolt (if pinch bolt is disturbed during knuckle separation) × 1 — OEM single-use pinch bolt

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3 the 12V (lithium) is typically located under the front trunk floor or behind the right rear seat panel — refer to architecture notes and the in-vehicle service mode if available.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen before raising — this disables auto-leveling routines and the parking brake reset behavior.
7. Chock the rear wheels (assuming front suspension work — repeat for opposite corner if doing both).
8. Loosen the wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground, then raise the front of the vehicle on Tesla-approved lift points using rubber jack pad pucks. Support on rated jack stands.
9. Remove the front wheel.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Visually inspect the upper ball joint, control arm, knuckle, and surrounding components. Photograph the orientation of the upper control arm at the chassis mount and at the steering knuckle for reference during reinstallation. Confirm the ball joint is the failed component (play, torn boot, noise) and that the integral-arm replacement is correct for this VIN.
2. 2

   Support the lower control arm / knuckle
   Place a floor jack under the lower control arm (or knuckle) and raise it slightly to take tension off the upper ball joint. This prevents the knuckle from dropping suddenly when the ball joint is separated and avoids stressing the CV axle and brake hose.
   ⚠Do not support the vehicle's weight on the lower control arm — only enough to neutralize the upper ball joint load.
3. 3

   Remove the brake hose / ABS / wear sensor routing if needed
   If the upper control arm path interferes with the front brake hose bracket, ABS sensor lead, or pad-wear sensor routing on the knuckle, unclip these from the knuckle bracket and set aside. Do NOT disconnect the brake hose — leave it pressurized and unbroken.
4. 4

   Remove the cotter pin and loosen the upper ball joint castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the upper ball joint stud. Discard it — it must be replaced with a new one. Loosen the castle nut but leave it threaded on the stud by a few turns to prevent the knuckle from dropping when the joint releases.
5. 5

   Separate the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Use a press-style ball joint separator to break the taper of the upper ball joint stud from the knuckle. Avoid pickle-fork separators if possible — they will tear the boot of the new joint if reused, and can damage the aluminum knuckle. Once the taper releases, fully remove the castle nut and lift the stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Aluminum knuckle — do not pry against it with steel tools or strike it with a steel hammer.
6. 6

   Remove the upper control arm from the chassis
   Locate the upper control arm chassis-side mounting bolt(s) at the shock tower / upper frame mount. Note the orientation and any alignment cam markings. Support the arm and remove the chassis-side fastener(s). Remove the upper control arm assembly from the vehicle.
   ℹ️If alignment cams are present, mark their position before removal — alignment will still be required after the job, but matching the prior position helps the vehicle drive home safely.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
7. 7

   Compare old and new arms
   Lay the old and new upper control arm assemblies side-by-side. Verify bushing orientation, ball joint stud length, taper, and overall geometry match. Confirm the new ball joint boot is intact and the stud threads are clean.
8. 8

   Install the new upper control arm at the chassis
   Position the new upper control arm at the chassis mount in the same orientation as removed. Hand-thread the chassis-side fastener(s). Do NOT final-torque yet — the arm bushings must be tightened with the suspension at ride height.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
9. 9

   Seat the new ball joint into the knuckle
   Lower (or raise the knuckle via the lower control arm jack) to align the new upper ball joint stud into the knuckle taper. Ensure the boot is not pinched. Install the castle nut and snug it.
10. 10

    Torque the ball joint castle nut and install new cotter pin
    Torque the upper ball joint castle nut to the verified specification. If the castle nut slot does not align with the cotter pin hole, tighten further (never back off) until alignment is achieved. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs to lock the nut.
    ⚠️Never loosen the castle nut to align the cotter pin — only tighten further within spec range.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reattach brake hose / ABS / wear sensor routing
    Reclip the brake hose bracket, ABS sensor lead, and any pad-wear sensor wiring back into their original retainers on the knuckle. Confirm no lines are stretched or rubbing against the new arm at full lock or full droop.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel. Hand-thread all lug nuts before lowering.
2. Lower the vehicle until full ride height is achieved with vehicle weight on the wheels.
3. With the suspension loaded at ride height, final-torque the upper control arm chassis-side bolt(s) to the verified Control Arm Bolts specification (165 Nm / 122 lb-ft).
4. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
6. Exit Service Mode / Jack Mode via the touchscreen.
7. Allow the vehicle to perform its self-checks; clear any suspension or ABS faults that appear.

Verification

• Confirm no warning messages are displayed on the touchscreen after wake-up (no ABS, traction, or stability fault icons).
• With the wheel back on the ground, grasp the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock — there should be zero play at the upper ball joint.
• Check steering lock-to-lock for any binding, clunks, or hose/wire interference at the new arm.
• Inspect the new ball joint boot for damage and confirm the new cotter pin is fully seated and bent.
• Test drive at low speed first; listen for clunks over bumps and during steering input.
• MANDATORY: Schedule a 4-wheel alignment immediately. Any upper control arm replacement on Model 3 disturbs camber and caster — driving long-term without alignment will scrub tires, which on a Performance Dual Motor can mean rapid wear given Tesla's recommended 6,250 mi tire rotation interval.
• Re-inspect torque on the upper control arm chassis bolt and ball joint castle nut after the first 100-300 miles of driving.

More procedures for this vehicle