electrical
Blower Motor Control Module
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
8
Steps
10
✓Fact-checked. Built from OLP's spec database, then independently fact-checked line by line with every correction applied. Master-tech sign-off by Chris Hackleman is queued. Cross-check torque values against the factory manual, and stop if anything looks unsafe. How our data is made.
Replace the HVAC blower motor control module (blower speed controller) on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. The module mounts to the blower housing under the passenger-side dash and controls fan speed via PWM signal from the HVAC ECU.
Warnings
⚠️Disconnect the low-voltage battery before working under the dash. The HVAC blower circuit is live whenever the vehicle is awake, and the Model 3 wakes on phone-key proximity — leaving it powered can short the new module on installation.
⚠Do NOT touch any orange cabling. While this job is dash-side and should not expose HV, if you encounter any orange wire or HV connector — STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
⚠The blower module contains static-sensitive electronics. Handle by the housing/heatsink only and avoid touching the connector pins or PCB.
⚠Model 3 dash trim panels use fragile plastic clips. Use plastic trim tools only — metal pry bars will crack the soft-touch dash skin, which is a single piece and expensive to replace.
ℹ️Keep the key fob and any paired phones at least 10 ft (3 m) from the vehicle during the entire procedure to prevent the car from waking and re-energizing low-voltage circuits.
Tools required
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Parts
- Blower Motor Control Module (HVAC fan speed controller) × 1 — Tesla Model 3 (2024) OEM blower motor control module — verify by VIN at parts counter
As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake (via touchscreen).
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob and any paired phone-key device kept well away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Open the frunk and disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically accessed under the frunk apron/cover — refer to architecture notes; some 2024 builds use a lithium 12V unit. Disconnect the negative terminal first.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Slide the front passenger seat fully rearward and recline the seatback for access to the passenger-side footwell.
- Place a clean shop towel or fender cover over the passenger door sill and floor mat to protect interior surfaces.
- Confirm climate control is OFF and the touchscreen is dark before proceeding.
Procedure
- 1Access the passenger footwellLie on your back in the passenger footwell with your head facing the firewall. Locate the lower trim panel/kick panel beneath the glove box. The blower motor and its control module are mounted on the passenger side of the HVAC case, accessible from below the dash.
- 2Remove the lower dash trim / knee bolsterUsing a plastic trim tool, gently release the lower dash trim panel beneath the glove box. The Model 3 dash uses hidden push-clips along the lower edge — work the tool around the perimeter and pop clips one at a time. If fasteners are present behind the panel, remove them with the appropriate Torx or socket driver. Set the panel aside on a soft surface.⚠Do not yank the panel — it may have a wiring harness for ambient lighting or a footwell lamp. Disconnect any connectors before fully removing.
- 3Locate the blower motor control moduleLook up into the HVAC case. The blower motor is a cylindrical assembly on the passenger side of the case. The control module is a finned aluminum heatsink with a PCB, mounted into the airflow path on the side or bottom of the blower housing — it relies on blower airflow for cooling. Identify the module body, its electrical connector, and its mounting fasteners (typically 2-3 small screws).
- 4Photograph harness routingBefore disconnecting anything, take clear photos of the connector orientation and any harness clips/routing around the module. This prevents pinched wires on reassembly.
- 5Disconnect the module electrical connectorDepress the connector lock tab and pull the connector straight off the module. Do not pry on the wires. Inspect the connector pins for corrosion, melting, or pushed-back terminals — a failed module is often caused by (or causes) connector damage. If any pin is discolored or melted, the harness pigtail must be addressed before installing a new module, or the new module will fail.⚠Melted connector pins indicate excessive current draw — likely a failing blower motor itself. Installing only a new module without addressing the blower will result in repeat failure.
- 6Remove the module mounting fastenersRemove the small screws securing the control module to the blower housing. Support the module with one hand as you remove the last fastener so it does not fall. Withdraw the module from the housing, noting the orientation of any sealing gasket or foam — this seal must be preserved or replaced to prevent unfiltered air bypass.Torque specModule Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 7Inspect the blower housing and heatsink finsWith the module out, inspect the inside of the blower housing for debris, leaves, or rodent nesting material — common contamination that can overheat the new module. Clean the housing with a vacuum. Verify the heatsink fin area is clear so blower airflow can cool the new module. Spin the blower wheel by hand to confirm it turns freely and is not seized or rubbing.ℹ️If the blower wheel is hard to turn, noisy, or wobbles, replace the blower motor at the same time. A binding blower draws excess current and will kill a new control module.
- 8Compare old and new modulesPlace the new module next to the old one. Verify the connector pinout, mounting hole pattern, heatsink shape, and gasket are identical. The Model 3 has had running production changes — the parts counter must match by VIN. If anything differs, stop and reverify the part number before installing.
- 9Install the new control modulePosition the new module into the blower housing in the same orientation as the original, ensuring the gasket/foam seats fully and is not pinched. Hand-thread the mounting fasteners first to avoid cross-threading the plastic housing, then snug them in a star pattern. Torque to specification — these threads are in plastic and will strip if over-torqued.⚠The module mounts into a plastic blower housing. Use a calibrated torque wrench — these are easy to over-tighten by feel.Torque specModule Mounting Bolts8 Nm (6 lb-ft)
- 10Reconnect the electrical connectorAlign the connector squarely with the module receptacle and push straight in until the lock tab clicks audibly. Tug gently to confirm it is fully latched. Reseat any harness clips into their original positions per your reference photos.
Reassembly
- Reinstall the lower dash trim / knee bolster panel, reconnecting any footwell lamp or ambient-light connector first. Press around the perimeter to seat all clips fully — listen for each click.
- Confirm no tools, fasteners, or trim tabs are left in the footwell.
- Return the passenger seat to its original position.
- Reconnect the low-voltage battery (positive first, then negative). Torque the battery terminal hardware to the Battery Terminal Bolts spec — do not overtighten.
- Close the frunk and any access covers.
Verification
- With the driver in the seat and the touchscreen awake, open Climate controls.
- Cycle the fan speed from 1 through 10 (or maximum). Confirm the blower responds smoothly at every step with no skipped speeds, no buzzing, and no sudden jumps — a properly functioning PWM module produces linear, stepless airflow change.
- Set the fan to AUTO and verify it modulates correctly with temperature changes.
- Run the system on MAX A/C for 5 minutes and listen at the passenger footwell — no rattles, whines, or air leaks should be present.
- Check the touchscreen Service menu for any active HVAC fault codes; clear historical codes after confirming none reappear.
- Note: While performing HVAC service, verify the cabin air filter age. Tesla recommends cabin air filter replacement every 2 years on Model 3 — if due or unknown, replace now while access is convenient.
- Note: Confirm brake fluid service interval (every 2 years, DOT-spec) and tire rotation interval (~6,250 mi) are current — these are commonly missed on Teslas due to the 'no scheduled maintenance' marketing.
Related trouble codes on this vehicle
Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.
P0005Fuel Shutoff Valve A Control Circuit/OpenP0006Fuel Shutoff Valve A Control Circuit LowP0026Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1P0027Exhaust Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Range/Performance Bank 1P0033Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve Control CircuitP0034Turbocharger/Supercharger Bypass Valve Control Circuit LowP0042HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 1 Sensor 3)P0043HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 3)P0062HO2S Heater Control Circuit (Bank 2 Sensor 3)P0063HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 2 Sensor 3)P0075Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit (Bank 1)P0076Intake Valve Control Solenoid Circuit Low (Bank 1)
Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →