Performance Dual Motor AWDAWDAUTOMATICev
4 active safety recalls on this vehicle — view recalls
Founding sponsor spot is openYour name on every procedure for this vehicle, permanently.Sponsor — $99 →
brakes

Brake Rotors - Front Pair

for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Editorial review:Chris HacklemanMaster Technician · 20+ years · Jeff MooreMaster Mechanic · 20+ years
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
1.0 h
Tools
15
Steps
12
Expert-verified. Personally reviewed and approved by OLP's master technicians (Chris Hackleman & Jeff Moore — 20+ years each). Always follow the vehicle's factory service information and torque specs.

Replace both front brake rotors on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. The Performance trim uses larger front brakes than the standard Model 3, so verify rotor dimensions match the Performance spec before installation.

Warnings

⚠️Never work under a Tesla supported only by a jack. The vehicle is heavy (~4,050 lb) and the floor pack adds low CG mass that shifts unpredictably.
⚠️Do not touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable. These are high-voltage and can be lethal even after shutdown.
Use only Tesla-approved jack points with a proper puck. The battery pack floor is structural — jacking incorrectly will damage the HV pack enclosure.
The Model 3 Performance uses larger front rotors than the standard Model 3. Confirm the new rotors match Performance spec before installing.
Aluminum suspension/body components — do not strike with steel hammer. Use a dead-blow if rotor is seized to the hub.
ℹ️After any brake service, the regenerative braking will mask issues during initial test drive. Verify pedal feel at low speed before relying on regen.

Tools required

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Parts

As an Amazon Associate and Autel/ANCEL partner, OLP earns from qualifying purchases — how we link. This never changes the specs we publish.

Preparation

  1. Park on level ground, place vehicle in P, and engage the parking brake.
  2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob/phone key away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
  3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model 3, the 12V (lithium) is located per the architecture notes — access via the right rear seat back panel or under-floor location depending on production date. Verify location before disassembly.
  4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
  5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
  6. Enter Service Mode via the touchscreen (Controls > Service) and disable regenerative auto-hold and creep behaviors before lifting wheels.
  7. Disable Sentry Mode and Cabin Overheat Protection so the vehicle does not power up systems while on stands.
  8. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the wheels are still on the ground.
  9. Lift the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points using approved pucks, and support on jack stands.
  10. Remove both front wheels.

Procedure

  1. 1
    Inspect and prepare the brake assembly
    With wheels off, inspect the caliper, rotor, pads, and dust shield for damage or excessive wear. Note the orientation of any shims or anti-rattle clips. Photograph the assembly for reference. Clean accumulated brake dust with brake parts cleaner before disassembly.
    Brake dust may contain irritants — avoid inhaling. Do not use compressed air to blow dust off.
  2. 2
    Retract the caliper piston
    Open the brake fluid reservoir cap briefly to relieve pressure, then re-cap loosely. Use a piston compression tool or large C-clamp against an old pad to gently retract the caliper piston into the bore. This creates clearance for the new (thicker) pads and rotor. Monitor reservoir level — it will rise as pistons retract.
    Do not let the reservoir overflow. Siphon fluid out if needed before retracting pistons.
  3. 3
    Remove the caliper slide pin bolts and lift caliper
    Remove the two caliper slide/guide pin bolts that secure the caliper body to the bracket. Slide the caliper off the bracket and rotor. Support the caliper with a bungee cord or caliper hanger from the suspension — DO NOT let it hang by the flexible brake hose.
    ⚠️Never let the caliper hang by the brake hose — this can damage the hose internally and cause failure.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  4. 4
    Remove brake pads
    Slide the inner and outer brake pads out of the caliper bracket. Note any shims or wear indicators for reuse or replacement.
  5. 5
    Remove the caliper bracket
    Remove the two large bolts securing the caliper bracket to the steering knuckle. These are typically high-torque and may require a breaker bar. Set the bracket aside on a clean surface.
    These bolts are torqued high and may have factory threadlocker. Use a properly fitting socket to avoid rounding.
    Torque spec
    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
  6. 6
    Remove the rotor set screw and rotor
    Remove the small set screw retaining the rotor to the hub. If the rotor is seized to the hub due to corrosion, apply penetrating oil at the hub center and use a dead-blow or rubber mallet on the rotor face (not the hat). Some rotors have threaded jacking holes — thread bolts in evenly to push the rotor off if available.
    Do not strike aluminum suspension components. Strike only the iron rotor face.
    Torque spec
    Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
  7. 7
    Clean the hub face
    Wire-brush the hub mating surface to remove all rust and debris. The new rotor must seat flat against bare metal — any debris will cause runout and brake judder. Apply a thin film of anti-seize to the hub center pilot only (not the rotor friction face or stud area).
    Keep all lubricants OFF the rotor friction surfaces and pad contact areas.
  8. 8
    Install new rotor
    Clean the new rotor's friction surfaces with brake parts cleaner to remove shipping oil. Slide the rotor onto the hub and install the rotor set screw to hold it flat against the hub.
    Torque spec
    Rotor Set Screws7 Nm (5 lb-ft)
  9. 9
    Reinstall caliper bracket
    Inspect the caliper bracket bolts. Apply medium-strength threadlocker to the threads. Install the bracket onto the knuckle and torque to specification.
    Torque spec
    Bracket Bolts102 Nm (75 lb-ft)
  10. 10
    Install brake pads
    Install pads (new pads recommended when replacing rotors) into the caliper bracket. Ensure any wear sensor or anti-rattle clips are oriented correctly.
  11. 11
    Reinstall caliper
    Inspect slide pin boots for damage. Apply silicone brake grease to the slide pins. Position the caliper over the pads and bracket, then install slide pin bolts and torque to specification.
    Torque spec
    Caliper Slide Pin Bolts35 Nm (26 lb-ft)
  12. 12
    Repeat on opposite side
    Perform steps 1 through 11 on the other front wheel.

Reassembly

  1. Reinstall front wheels. Snug lug nuts by hand in a star pattern.
  2. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
  3. Torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
  4. Top off brake fluid reservoir to the MAX line with DOT 4 brake fluid (Tesla specifies DOT 4 for Model 3 — verify against the cap marking; do not use DOT 3).
  5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
  6. Close the reservoir cap securely.

Verification

  • With the vehicle still stationary and powered on, pump the brake pedal firmly multiple times until pedal becomes firm. The first 1-2 pumps will feel soft as pads seat against the rotors.
  • Confirm brake fluid level is at MAX after pumping pedal. Top off if needed.
  • Exit Service Mode. Verify no brake-related alerts appear on the touchscreen.
  • Perform a low-speed (5-10 mph) brake test in a safe area before any road driving. The pedal must be firm with no pulsation.
  • Bed-in the new rotors and pads per the pad manufacturer's procedure — typically a series of moderate stops from ~35 mph followed by cooling. Avoid hard stops or holding the brakes at a stop while rotors are hot during bed-in (this causes pad material transfer / judder).
  • Re-torque lug nuts after 50-100 miles of driving — Tesla aluminum-faced wheels are known to require re-torque verification.
  • REMINDER: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage. If fluid has not been changed within that interval, schedule a flush.

Related trouble codes on this vehicle

Codes that commonly send this job to the bay — tap one for symptoms, causes, and diagnostic steps.

Chasing one of these codes and not sure which part is guilty? Ask a master mechanic about YOUR car →

🔧Stuck on this brake rotors - front pair? Take it to The Diag Desk.A human with 20+ years in the bay answers about YOUR Tesla within 24 hours — never AI. $25, and you're not charged unless you get an answer.Ask a tech →

More procedures for this vehicle

🔧 Database maintained under the daily editorial review of Chris Hackleman · Master Technician · 20+ years and Jeff Moore · Master Mechanic · 20+ years. Spot an error? Use the Help link above — a human reads every report.
Stuck on this repair? Take it to The Diag Desk — ask a master tech about this exact car → real human answer within 24h, never AI
⚠ STILL BEHIND THE PAYWALL
The 2024 Tesla Model 3 repair data is incomplete because no one has sponsored it yet. For $99, we generate the full step-by-step procedures, then fact-check them with a second AI pass and your expert review. Your name on every procedure, permanently.
The same data would cost $169/mo from Mitchell1 or $30/year from ALLDATAdiy — and you'd be renting access, not freeing it. Sponsor once, free forever.
Sponsor the Tesla Model 3 — $99 →
Building an app?
Free API access to all this data — 10 requests/day, no card required.
Get an API key →
Run a shop?
Manage repairs, estimates, and customers with ShopBase — $249/mo, all features included.
Try ShopBase →