Replace the front lower control arm bushing on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance AWD. Due to the bushing being pressed into the cast/forged control arm, most shops replace the entire control arm assembly rather than press a new bushing into the original arm.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front lower control arm bushing OR complete front lower control arm assembly (Model 3 2024 Performance specific) × 1 — Manufacturer-specified front lower control arm / bushing for 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD
• Ball joint cotter pin (new) × 1 — OEM cotter pin matching ball joint stud
• Control arm pivot bolt(s) — replace if single-use stretch bolts are specified by Tesla × 1 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual to determine if bolts are reusable

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob carried at least 10 ft away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Open the front trunk, then disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery may be located behind the right rear seat back panel or under the floor — refer to architecture notes and verify before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting to disable air-related self-leveling logic and ride-height messages. (Model 3 is coil-sprung, but Jack Mode still suppresses related fault chimes.)
7. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the wheels are on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle using the rocker jack pads only, and support on jack stands rated for EV weight. Never support the vehicle on the HV battery case.
9. Remove the front wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect and document
   Before disassembly, photograph the existing control arm orientation, alignment cam/eccentric positions (if equipped), and routing of any wheel speed sensor or brake hose clips attached to the arm. Mark eccentric bolt positions with a paint pen so initial alignment can be approximated on reassembly.
2. 2

   Disconnect sway bar end link from lower control arm
   Locate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the lower control arm. Hold the link's internal shaft with the appropriate Allen key while loosening the nut with a wrench to prevent the stud from spinning. Remove the nut and separate the link from the arm.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
3. 3

   Release the lower ball joint from the steering knuckle
   Remove and discard the cotter pin from the ball joint stud. Loosen — but do not fully remove — the ball joint nut so it sits flush with the top of the stud (this protects the threads and prevents the knuckle from dropping uncontrolled). Use a ball joint separator to break the taper. Once free, fully remove the nut and carefully lift the knuckle off the ball joint stud. Support the knuckle/hub assembly with a bungee or stand — do NOT let it hang on the brake hose, ABS wire, or half-shaft CV joint.
   ⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle with a steel hammer to break the taper. Use a press-type separator.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Detach any sensors or hardware mounted to the control arm
   Release any wheel speed sensor harness clips, brake hose retainers, or wiring routed along the control arm. Set hardware aside for reinstallation.
5. 5

   Remove the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s)
   Support the control arm with a jack. Loosen and remove the inboard pivot bolt(s) that secure the control arm to the front subframe. Note the orientation of any eccentric/cam washers used for alignment. Discard hardware if Tesla specifies single-use stretch bolts; otherwise retain for reinstallation.
   ⚠The pivot bolt may be long and pass through the subframe — ensure clearance to remove it without contacting the HV battery shielding.
   Torque spec

   Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Remove the control arm
   Lower the supporting jack and carefully maneuver the control arm out of the subframe pocket and out of the vehicle.
7. 7

   Replace bushing (or arm)
   If replacing the entire control arm assembly (recommended approach), set the old arm aside. If pressing a new bushing into the original arm, use a hydraulic press with a manufacturer-specified bushing driver/receiver to remove and install the new bushing. Press only on the outer steel sleeve of the bushing — never on the rubber. Confirm the bushing's clocking/orientation matches the OEM mark, as some Tesla suspension bushings are voided and direction-specific.
   ⚠Installing a directional bushing in the wrong orientation will cause premature failure and abnormal handling.
8. 8

   Install control arm to subframe
   Position the control arm into the subframe pocket with any eccentric/cam washers in their previously marked positions. Install the inboard pivot bolt(s) finger-tight only at this stage — final torque must be applied with the suspension at ride height.
9. 9

   Reconnect ball joint to knuckle
   Lift the knuckle onto the ball joint stud. Install the ball joint nut and torque to specification. Install a NEW cotter pin and bend the legs per OEM standard. If the cotter pin slot does not align, tighten further (never loosen) until alignment is achieved, within reason — if excessive rotation is required, recheck stud and nut.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect sway bar end link
    Reinstall the sway bar end link nut at the control arm, holding the internal shaft with an Allen key while torquing.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reattach sensor/harness clips
    Reinstall any wheel speed sensor harness clips, brake hose retainers, and wiring previously released. Verify the harness is not stretched or contacting any moving suspension component throughout full travel.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so the wheels carry full vehicle weight (use drive-on ramps or a mid-rise lift to access the pivot bolt).
3. Final-torque the inboard control arm pivot bolt(s) to specification with the suspension loaded at ride height.
4. Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
5. Reconnect the 12V/Li-ion low-voltage battery.
6. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and clear any suspension-related alerts.
7. Have a four-wheel alignment performed before returning the vehicle to road service.

Verification

• Confirm no chassis or suspension warnings appear on the touchscreen after a key cycle and a short drive.
• Test drive at low speed over a bumpy surface and listen for clunks — a properly torqued bushing should be silent.
• Verify steering returns to center smoothly and that the car tracks straight; if not, recheck eccentric/cam positions and proceed to alignment.
• After alignment, verify camber and caster are within Tesla's published range for the 2024 Model 3 Performance.
• Re-inspect ball joint cotter pin is present and properly bent.
• Note in service records: this repair is a good time to also inspect the opposite-side control arm bushing, as Model 3 lower bushings tend to wear symmetrically. While the front is on stands, also confirm brake fluid service interval (every 2 years per Tesla) and tire rotation interval (every 6,250 mi) — log next-due dates for the customer.

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