Replacement of a rear control arm bushing on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. Due to the Model 3's multi-link rear suspension and pressed-in bushings, this job typically requires removing the affected control arm and pressing the bushing in/out, or replacing the arm as an assembly if pressing is impractical.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Rear control arm bushing (manufacturer-specified for affected arm) × 1 — Tesla OEM rear suspension bushing — confirm by arm position (toe/camber/trailing/upper/lower)
• Control arm pivot bolt and nut (replace if single-use/stretch design — refer to Tesla Service Manual) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage the parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically accessed behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024+ builds use a lithium unit located under the floor — verify location before disconnect.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport/Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting, so the air/active systems and self-leveling logic do not fight the lift. (Model 3 Performance is coil-sprung, but Jack Mode also disables certain safety interlocks.)
7. Loosen rear lug nuts while the wheel is on the ground.
8. Raise the rear of the vehicle using only Tesla-specified lift points with proper pucks; support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
9. Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.

Procedure

1. 1

   Identify the affected control arm
   The Model 3 rear suspension is a multi-link design with several arms (upper camber link, lower control arm, toe link, trailing arm). Confirm which arm's bushing is being replaced before disassembly. Inspect the rubber for cracking, separation, or voiding under pry-bar load.
2. 2

   Mark eccentric/cam bolt positions
   If the affected arm uses a cam (eccentric) bolt for camber or toe adjustment, use a paint marker to mark the cam washer position relative to the subframe before loosening. This preserves the approximate alignment until a proper alignment is performed.
   ⚠An alignment is still required after this job — the marks are only to get you driveable to the alignment shop.
3. 3

   Support the rear knuckle/hub
   Place a jack with a wood block under the rear knuckle/hub assembly to support it. This prevents the half-shaft, brake line, ABS harness, and parking brake cable from being stressed when the arm is disconnected.
   ⚠Do not let the hub hang on the half-shaft or brake line.
4. 4

   Disconnect sway bar link (if it interferes)
   If the affected arm is the lower control arm, disconnect the sway bar end link from the arm. Hold the link's stud with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove control arm pivot bolt(s)
   Remove the inboard (subframe-side) pivot bolt and, if required to free the arm, the outboard (knuckle-side) fastener. On lower control arms with a ball joint to the knuckle, separate the ball joint per Tesla Service Manual procedure and discard the cotter pin if equipped.
   ⚠Bolts may be one-time-use. Refer to Tesla Service Manual to determine if replacement is required.
6. 6

   Remove the control arm
   Carefully maneuver the arm out of the subframe and away from the knuckle. Note any shims, spacers, or cam washers and their orientation.
7. 7

   Press out the old bushing
   Secure the control arm in a vise with soft jaws or set up in a hydraulic press. Using a bushing press kit with cups sized to the bushing OD (driver) and arm bore (receiver), press the old bushing out in the manufacturer-specified direction. If the bushing has a flange, press from the non-flange side.
   ⚠Do not heat aluminum control arms with a torch to ease bushing removal — this anneals the metal and weakens the arm.
   ℹ️If the arm bore is scored, corroded, or damaged during removal, replace the arm as an assembly.
8. 8

   Inspect and prep the bore
   Clean the arm bore thoroughly. Check for cracks, ovaling, or galling. Apply a light film of soapy water or the bushing manufacturer's specified lubricant — do NOT use petroleum-based grease, which degrades rubber.
9. 9

   Press in the new bushing
   Align the new bushing squarely with the bore. If the bushing is voided/clocked (has hollow sections oriented to a specific axis for compliance tuning), align the void marks per the manufacturer-specified orientation. Press in slowly and evenly until fully seated.
   ⚠Incorrectly clocked voided bushings will cause harsh ride, premature wear, and abnormal handling.
10. 10

    Reinstall the control arm
    Position the arm into the subframe and knuckle. Reinstall any cam washers/shims in their original orientation using your paint marks. Hand-thread the pivot bolts — do NOT final-torque yet.
11. 11

    Reconnect ball joint and sway bar link (if disconnected)
    Reconnect the ball joint (if applicable) and torque the nut to spec, then install a new cotter pin. Reconnect the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key while torquing.
    Torque spec

    Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
12. 12

    Snug pivot bolt; lower vehicle to ride height
    Snug the control arm pivot bolt(s) but do not final-torque. Reinstall the wheel, hand-tighten lugs, lower the vehicle to the ground, and bounce the suspension to settle it.
13. 13

    Final-torque control arm pivot bolt at ride height
    With the full vehicle weight on the wheels (suspension at static ride height), final-torque the control arm pivot bolt. This sets the bushing in its neutral preload position.
    ⚠️Skipping ride-height torque is the #1 cause of premature bushing failure on Model 3 rear suspensions.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
14. 14

    Torque lug nuts
    Torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Verify all fasteners disturbed are torqued to spec or marked 'Refer to Tesla Service Manual' if not in the verified list.
2. Reconnect the 12V/Li-ion low-voltage battery.
3. Exit Jack Mode / Transport Mode via the touchscreen.
4. Power the vehicle on and check for any chassis or stability control fault messages on the center display.
5. Have the rear alignment checked and adjusted at a shop with EV-rated alignment racks — Model 3 rear toe and camber are sensitive to control arm work.

Verification

• Test drive at low speed and listen for clunks over bumps, particularly on rebound.
• At highway speed, verify the vehicle tracks straight and the steering wheel does not pull.
• Re-check the control arm pivot bolt torque after the first 100 miles — bushing settling can change clamp load.
• Confirm no Vehicle Dynamics Control or ABS faults appear on the touchscreen after the test drive.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately if not already performed; Tesla Model 3 rear suspension geometry directly affects tire wear (already accelerated by instant torque).
• While the vehicle is up, this is a good opportunity to confirm Tesla's recommended service intervals: brake fluid every 2 years, cabin filter every 2 years, and rear drive unit fluid per Tesla's revised schedule (initial 12,500 mi, then 25,000–50,000 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle