Replacement of a front lower control arm on a 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD. The Model 3 uses a multi-link front suspension; the lower control arm (often called the lower fore-link) attaches to the subframe inboard and to the lower portion of the steering knuckle outboard via a ball joint.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front Lower Control Arm assembly (Model 3 Performance, 2024) × 1 — Tesla OEM front lower control arm — confirm part by VIN
• Ball joint cotter pin × 1 — New cotter pin — manufacturer-specified size
• Control arm bolts (if specified as single-use by Tesla) × 2 — Refer to Tesla Service Manual — replace if listed as torque-to-yield/single-use

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model 3, the 12V (lithium) battery is typically located under the rear seat / floor area — refer to the architecture notes and Tesla Service Manual for the exact location on this VIN.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Transport / Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting (prevents air suspension recalibration on equipped cars and disables auto-leveling/regenerative behaviors).
7. Chock the rear wheels.
8. Loosen the front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
9. Raise the vehicle on a hoist or jack stands using only Tesla-designated lift points (puck/pad locations on the rocker pinch welds).

Procedure

1. 1

   Remove front wheel
   With the vehicle safely supported, remove the front wheel lug nuts and set the wheel aside. Inspect the wheel hub and brake components for any contamination before proceeding.
2. 2

   Inspect and photograph
   Photograph the existing control arm orientation, bolt directions, and any alignment cam/eccentric markings on the inboard bolts. This reference will help re-set initial alignment before the rack visit.
   ℹ️Some Model 3 inboard control arm bolts may be eccentric/cam style for alignment adjustment — mark their position before removal.
3. 3

   Disconnect sway bar end link (if it interferes)
   If the sway bar end link prevents control arm clearance, separate the sway bar link from the lower arm or strut. Hold the link's internal shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove ball joint cotter pin and loosen castle nut
   Straighten and remove the cotter pin from the lower ball joint stud at the steering knuckle. Loosen the castle nut but do not fully remove it yet — leave it threaded on a few turns to protect the threads and to prevent the knuckle from dropping uncontrollably when the joint releases.
   ⚠Discard the old cotter pin. A new cotter pin is mandatory on reassembly.
5. 5

   Separate ball joint from steering knuckle
   Use a proper ball joint separator tool to break the lower ball joint taper free from the steering knuckle. Do NOT strike the aluminum knuckle directly with a hammer. Once free, fully remove the castle nut and lower the ball joint stud out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Support the knuckle/hub assembly with a stand or strap so it does not hang on the outer CV joint or brake hose.
6. 6

   Remove inboard control arm bolts
   Support the control arm with a transmission jack or stand. Mark eccentric/cam alignment bolts for reference (if equipped), then remove the inboard mounting bolts that secure the control arm to the front subframe. Withdraw the control arm from the vehicle.
   ⚠Inspect the subframe mounting points for cracks, corrosion, or distortion before installing the new arm.
7. 7

   Compare old and new arms
   Place the old and new control arms side-by-side. Verify bushing orientation, ball joint stud direction, and any side-specific (LH/RH) markings match before installation.
8. 8

   Install new control arm — inboard side
   Position the new control arm into the subframe brackets. Hand-thread the inboard mounting bolts (re-using eccentric cam orientation from your reference marks). Do NOT final-torque yet — leave snug only.
   ⚠Final torque on these bolts must be performed with the vehicle's weight on the wheels (suspension at ride height).
9. 9

   Reconnect ball joint to knuckle
   Insert the lower ball joint stud through the steering knuckle. Install the castle nut and torque to the verified ball joint specification, aligning the slot with the cotter pin hole. Install a new cotter pin and bend the legs per the manufacturer-specified pattern.
   ⚠️If the castle nut slot does not align with the cotter pin hole at the specified torque, tighten further (never loosen) to the next slot, within OEM limits. A loose ball joint can cause loss of steering control.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reattach sway bar link (if disconnected)
    Reinstall the sway bar end link nut, holding the internal shaft with an Allen key to prevent rotation. Torque to the verified sway bar link nut specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
11. 11

    Reinstall wheel
    Mount the front wheel and hand-thread all lug nuts. Snug them in a star pattern, then lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground (preload, but full weight not yet on wheel).
12. 12

    Final torque lug nuts
    With the vehicle on the ground (or wheel weighted), torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to the verified specification.
    Torque spec

    Wheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Final torque inboard control arm bolts at ride height
    With the vehicle's full weight on the wheels (or simulated ride height on the hoist using a wheel-engaging lift or jack under the hub), torque the inboard control arm bolts to the verified specification. This sets bushing preload correctly.
    ⚠Skipping the ride-height step will cause premature bushing failure and possible noise/vibration.
    Torque spec

    Control Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
2. Close all doors and allow the vehicle to wake; verify no suspension or stability-control alerts appear on the touchscreen.
3. Exit Jack/Transport Mode if it was engaged.
4. Drive the vehicle a very short distance to a level surface only — do NOT drive at speed before alignment.

Verification

• Confirm no warning messages on the center display related to stability control, ABS, or suspension.
• Visually re-inspect the new ball joint cotter pin is installed and properly bent.
• Verify all torque-critical fasteners (ball joint nut, control arm bolts, sway bar link, lug nuts) are paint-marked after final torque for future inspection.
• Perform a full 4-wheel alignment on a Tesla-capable alignment rack — Model 3 has tight camber/toe tolerances and the inboard control arm bolts often act as alignment adjusters.
• Test drive at low speed first, listening for clunks over bumps and verifying the steering wheel is centered and pulls neither direction.
• While the vehicle is up, this is a good opportunity to inspect brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and confirm tire rotation is current (~every 6,250 mi).

More procedures for this vehicle