suspension
Lower Control Arm - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
2.0 h
Tools
10
Steps
10
Replacement of a rear lower control arm on a 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD. This is the long lateral link that locates the rear wheel; final torque must be set with the suspension loaded at ride height to avoid premature bushing failure.
Warnings
⚠️The HV battery pack is mounted in the floor directly inboard of the rear suspension. Do NOT place jack stands or lift pads anywhere except the factory-designated lift points. Crushing the pack can cause fire or electrocution.
⚠️If you see any orange cabling near the rear subframe area, STOP. Do not cut, pry, or pierce it. Consult a Tesla-certified technician.
⚠Final torque on the control arm pivot bolts MUST be applied with the vehicle's suspension loaded at normal ride height. Torquing at full droop will preload the bushing and cause it to tear within months.
⚠Model 3 uses an aluminum/steel hybrid body and aluminum suspension components — do not strike fasteners or arms with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow if persuasion is needed.
ℹ️A 4-wheel alignment is required after this repair. Rear toe and camber are affected.
Tools required
Floor jack with rated lift pad / hockey puck adapterEssential
Jack stands (4-ton minimum)Essential
Torque wrench (40-200 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (deep and shallow)Essential
Metric combination wrench setEssential
Breaker barEssential
Drive-on ramps or mid-rise lift (to torque at ride height)Essential
Pry bar
Penetrating oil
Wheel chocksEssential
Parts
- Rear lower control arm (manufacturer-specified for Model 3 Performance) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 rear lower control arm assembly
- Control arm mounting bolts (replace if Tesla specifies single-use) × 2 — OEM-specification fasteners — verify with service manual
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob carried well away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically a lithium unit; access location varies — refer to architecture notes and the in-car service procedure. Disable the vehicle per Tesla's 'Service Mode' shutdown if available.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen the rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
- Raise the rear of the vehicle using ONLY the factory-designated lift points (use rubber pucks to protect the rocker pinch welds and to avoid contacting the HV battery case). Support securely on jack stands.
- Remove the rear wheel on the affected side.
- Note the orientation, length, and routing of the existing control arm before removal — take reference photos.
Procedure
- 1Inspect surrounding areaVisually inspect the rear suspension area for any orange HV cabling, coolant lines from the battery pack, or wiring harnesses routed near the control arm. Confirm none are in the path of removal. The HV pack is immediately inboard — work carefully.⚠️If orange cabling is visible or routed near the work area, stop and verify the procedure with Tesla service documentation before proceeding.
- 2Support the rear knuckle/hubPlace a floor jack with a wood block under the rear knuckle/hub assembly and apply just enough pressure to support it. This prevents the knuckle from dropping when the control arm is released and avoids stressing the half-shaft and other links.
- 3Disconnect the sway bar end link (if it interferes)If the sway bar link blocks access to the control arm fasteners, remove the sway bar end link nut. Hold the link's internal hex with an Allen key while loosening the nut. Set hardware aside for reuse if undamaged.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 4Remove the outboard control arm fastener (knuckle side)Loosen and remove the outboard bolt/nut securing the lower control arm to the rear knuckle. Penetrating oil may help if corroded. Support the arm as the fastener is withdrawn.⚠Do not let the knuckle swing freely — it will pull on the half-shaft inner CV joint and ABS/wiring harness.
- 5Remove the inboard control arm fastener (subframe side)Loosen and remove the inboard pivot bolt securing the control arm to the rear subframe. If the bolt is a through-bolt with a cam adjuster (alignment eccentric), mark the cam position with a paint pen before removal so the alignment is in the ballpark for drive-off.ℹ️Even with cam marks, a professional alignment is mandatory after reassembly.
- 6Remove the old control armWithdraw the lower control arm from the vehicle. Inspect the bushings, ball joint (if integrated), and pivot points. Compare the new arm to the old arm to confirm correct length, geometry, and bushing orientation.
- 7Install the new control arm — finger-tight onlyPosition the new control arm in place. Install the inboard subframe bolt and the outboard knuckle fastener with the cam(s) aligned to the previously marked positions. Snug them only — do NOT final-torque yet. The bushings must be set at ride height.⚠Final torque on rubber-bushed pivot bolts must occur at ride height. Torquing now will ruin the bushing.
- 8Reconnect sway bar end link (if removed)Reinstall the sway bar end link nut, holding the internal hex with an Allen key. Torque to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 9Reinstall the wheelMount the rear wheel and install lug nuts hand-tight. Lower the vehicle until the tire just contacts the ground but the suspension is not yet fully loaded, then snug the lug nuts. Lower fully and torque the lugs in a star pattern.Torque specWheel Lug Nuts136 Nm (100 lb-ft)
- 10Load suspension to ride height and final-torque pivot boltsEither lower the vehicle fully onto the ground, or set it on drive-on ramps / a mid-rise lift so the rear suspension is at normal loaded ride height. Final-torque the inboard and outboard control arm fasteners to specification.⚠Skipping the ride-height torque step is the #1 cause of premature bushing failure on Tesla rear suspension components.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Verify all fasteners are torqued to specification and no tools are left in the wheel well.
- Reinstall any underbody panels or splash shields that were displaced for access; use Tesla-spec plastic rivets if originals were damaged.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- Power the vehicle on and check for chassis/suspension fault messages on the center display.
- Drive a short, low-speed loop on a smooth surface to confirm no clunks, binding, or pulling before going to alignment.
Verification
- Perform a 4-wheel alignment — required after any rear control arm replacement on Model 3. Verify rear toe and camber fall within Tesla's published specs.
- Check tire pressures and reset TPMS if needed.
- After 50-100 miles, re-inspect the control arm fasteners visually for any signs of movement or witness marks.
- While the vehicle is on the lift for alignment, take the opportunity to check Tesla's other interval-based items: brake fluid (every 2 years), cabin air filter (every 2 years), and rear drive unit gear oil (Tesla now recommends initial service ~12,500 mi, then every 25,000-50,000 mi — not 'lifetime').