Replace the front strut upper bearing (mount) on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. Requires removing the strut assembly and disassembling it under spring compression — the most hazardous part of this job.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front strut upper bearing / mount assembly × 1 — Manufacturer-specified Model 3 front strut upper bearing — refer to Tesla parts catalog by VIN
• Cotter pin for ball joint nut × 1 — New cotter pin — do not reuse
• Strut bump stop and dust boot (recommended replacement when bearing is out) × 1 — OEM-equivalent for Model 3 front strut

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, and engage the parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3 Performance the low-voltage battery is typically located under a panel in the front trunk area or under the rear seat — verify per your VIN before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service menu) before lifting to disable self-leveling logic and prevent fault codes.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the wheels are still on the ground.
8. Lift the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified front jack points using approved pucks, then support on jack stands rated for EV weight.
9. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
10. Inspect the new strut bearing kit and confirm it matches the part removed — orientation tabs and bearing race direction matter.

Procedure

1. 1

   Index and disconnect the sway bar end link
   Mark the sway bar link orientation. Hold the link's stud with an Allen key on the flats and remove the upper nut at the strut. Swing the link down out of the way.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Separate any wiring/brake line clips from the strut
   Detach the brake hose bracket and any ABS/wheel speed sensor wiring clipped to the strut body. Support the brake caliper with a hook — do not let it hang by the hose.
3. 3

   Separate the lower ball joint (if required to free the knuckle)
   If your strut-to-knuckle design requires the knuckle to drop away, remove the cotter pin and ball joint nut, then separate the ball joint from the lower control arm using a proper separator. Avoid hammering on the aluminum knuckle.
   ⚠Do not let the half-shaft hang unsupported — overextension can damage the inner CV joint.
   Torque spec

   Ball Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Remove the strut-to-knuckle bolts
   Mark the bolt-to-strut position with paint for reference (these bolts can affect camber on reinstall). Remove both pinch/through bolts securing the strut to the steering knuckle. Free the knuckle from the strut, supporting it so weight does not pull on the half-shaft.
   Torque spec

   Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Support the strut and remove the upper strut tower nuts
   From the front trunk / strut tower area, locate the three upper strut mount nuts. Support the strut from below with one hand, then remove the upper nuts. The strut assembly will drop free — keep it controlled.
   ⚠Do NOT remove the center top nut of the strut shaft yet — that is done only with the spring compressed on the bench.
   Torque spec

   Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
6. 6

   Move strut to bench and install spring compressor
   Secure the strut assembly. Install a properly rated coil spring compressor on opposite sides of the spring, evenly capturing at least four coils. Compress the spring slowly and evenly until all tension is removed from the upper bearing/mount.
   ⚠️Verify the spring is fully unloaded against the upper hat before loosening the center nut. If the hat still has pressure on it, the spring will launch when the nut releases.
7. 7

   Remove the upper strut shaft nut and disassemble
   Hold the strut shaft with the manufacturer-specified internal hex or Torx and remove the center nut. Lift off the upper mount, the strut bearing, the upper spring seat/isolator, the dust boot, and the bump stop. Note the orientation of every component.
8. 8

   Inspect related components
   Inspect the bump stop, dust boot, upper spring isolator, and the spring itself for cracks, corrosion, or sag. Replace any worn item now while the assembly is apart — labor to come back is identical to this job.
9. 9

   Install the new strut bearing and reassemble
   Stack components in the original order: bump stop and boot on shaft, spring on lower seat (verify pigtail end aligns with the seat's locator), upper isolator, new bearing, upper mount hat — observing any directional/index marks on the mount relative to the lower strut bracket. Hand-thread the center nut.
   ⚠Indexing the upper mount incorrectly relative to the lower strut bracket will prevent reinstallation and can pre-load the bearing.
10. 10

    Torque the strut shaft nut and release the compressor
    Torque the strut shaft center nut to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Then slowly and evenly release the spring compressor, confirming the spring ends seat into both upper and lower seats as tension increases.

Reassembly

1. Lift the assembled strut into the tower, align the studs through the tower holes, and start all upper nuts by hand. Torque the upper strut tower nuts to 50 Nm (37 lb-ft).
2. Reattach the strut to the knuckle, aligning the paint marks made during removal. Install the strut-to-knuckle bolts and torque to 122 Nm (90 lb-ft).
3. If the lower ball joint was separated, reseat it into the control arm and torque the ball joint nut to 88 Nm (65 lb-ft). Install a NEW cotter pin — never reuse the old one.
4. Reinstall the sway bar end link, holding the stud with an Allen key, and torque the link nut to 55 Nm (41 lb-ft).
5. Reattach the brake hose bracket and any wheel-speed sensor wiring to the strut.
6. Mount the wheel and hand-tighten the lug nuts.
7. Lower the vehicle so suspension is loaded at ride height, then torque any control arm bolts that were disturbed to 165 Nm (122 lb-ft) with weight on the wheels.
8. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
9. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
10. Exit Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the vehicle to wake fully.

Verification

• Visually confirm no spring compressor parts, tools, or fasteners are left in the strut tower or wheel well.
• Bounce-test the corner — suspension should rebound smoothly with no clunk or grinding from the new bearing.
• Turn the steering lock-to-lock with the wheels on the ground — listen for binding or popping from the upper mount/bearing area.
• Check the touchscreen for any chassis, ABS, or stability control alerts; clear any transient codes by cycling the vehicle.
• Drive at low speed and verify no pull, no clunk over bumps, and no creaking when turning.
• Schedule a four-wheel alignment immediately — Model 3 camber/toe specs are tight and tire wear is rapid if out of spec.
• Reminder: while the vehicle is in for alignment, this is a good time to verify Tesla's interval items — brake fluid every 2 years, cabin air filter every 2 years, and tire rotation every ~6,250 miles.

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