Replace the front strut mount (upper strut bearing/mount assembly) on a 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance. This requires removing the complete front strut assembly from the vehicle and disassembling it on a bench using a spring compressor.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front strut mount assembly (upper bearing/mount) × 1 — OEM Tesla Model 3 Performance front strut mount — confirm by VIN
• Strut tower nuts (if single-use) × 3 — OEM specification
• Cotter pin for ball joint nut × 1 — OEM specification
• Upper spring isolator/pad (recommended if worn) × 1 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model 3 Performance, the 12V (lithium) is typically located under the rear seat or rear floor area — refer to architecture notes and confirm location before disconnecting.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Disable Sentry Mode and place the vehicle in Service/Tow Mode (or Jack Mode) via the touchscreen so the air/ride logic and auto-leveling do not interfere.
7. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is still on the ground.
8. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-specified jacking points using puck adapters. Support securely on jack stands. Confirm the underbody battery pack is not bearing any load.
9. Remove the front wheel on the side being serviced.
10. Inspect the strut, mount, and surrounding components for collision damage before disassembly.

Procedure

1. 1

   Disconnect the sway bar end link from the strut
   Locate the sway bar end link where it attaches to the strut body bracket. Hold the link's internal hex with an Allen key to prevent rotation, then remove the nut. Swing the link clear of the strut.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
2. 2

   Disconnect ABS/wheel speed sensor wiring and brake hose bracket
   Carefully release the wheel speed sensor harness clip and brake hose bracket from the strut body so they remain with the knuckle and don't get strained when the strut is removed. Do not stretch or pinch the harness.
   ⚠Damage to the ABS sensor harness will throw stability control faults that require diagnostic clearing.
3. 3

   Separate the strut from the steering knuckle
   Support the knuckle/hub assembly with a jack stand or strap so it does not fall when released. Remove the two strut-to-knuckle through-bolts. Note the orientation of any camber adjustment hardware. Carefully spread the knuckle pinch (if equipped) and slide the strut up out of the knuckle.
   ⚠Do not let the knuckle hang by the half-shaft or brake hose. Support it independently.
   Torque spec

   Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)
4. 4

   Support the strut and remove the upper strut tower nuts
   From inside the front trunk (frunk), remove any cowl/trim panels needed to access the strut tower nuts. With the strut firmly supported from below, loosen and remove the three upper strut tower nuts. Do NOT remove the center shaft nut at this stage.
   ⚠The strut will drop once the last tower nut is removed. Have an assistant or strut support in place.
   Torque spec

   Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove the strut assembly from the vehicle
   Lower the strut and maneuver it down and out of the wheel well. Take it to a bench for safe disassembly.
6. 6

   Compress the coil spring on the bench
   Mount a heavy-duty spring compressor on opposing coils, ensuring the hooks are fully seated. Compress evenly until the spring is no longer loading the upper mount. Confirm zero load on the top hat before proceeding.
   ⚠️An improperly seated spring compressor can launch the spring with lethal force. Inspect engagement at every quarter-turn and never stand in line with the spring.
7. 7

   Remove the center strut shaft nut and old mount
   Hold the strut shaft from rotating using the manufacturer-specified strut shaft holder or an Allen socket through the top nut. Remove the center nut. Lift off the old upper strut mount, bearing, and upper spring seat/isolator. Note the stack-up order.
8. 8

   Inspect related components
   Inspect the bump stop, dust boot, upper spring isolator, and the strut shaft for pitting or oil weep. If the strut cartridge shows oil leakage, replace the strut as well — replacing only the mount on a leaking strut is not acceptable. Inspect the coil spring for corrosion and chips.
9. 9

   Install the new strut mount
   Reassemble in the original stack order: lower spring seat (on strut body), spring (with end aligned to the seat indexing), bump stop/dust boot, upper isolator, new upper mount and bearing. Ensure the mount's stud pattern is clocked correctly relative to the lower strut bracket — a misclocked mount will not bolt to the tower.
   ⚠The upper mount has a specific rotational orientation relative to the lower strut bracket. Match the orientation of the original assembly before tightening.
10. 10

    Torque the center strut shaft nut and release the spring
    Hold the strut shaft and torque the center nut to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Slowly and evenly back off the spring compressor, confirming the spring seats properly into both upper and lower seat indexes as it extends.
11. 11

    Reinstall the strut into the vehicle
    Lift the assembled strut into the wheel well, guide the upper studs through the strut tower, and start the three tower nuts by hand. Then guide the lower strut bracket onto the knuckle and start the strut-to-knuckle bolts by hand.
12. 12

    Torque upper and lower strut fasteners
    Torque the strut tower nuts evenly. Then torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts. Reattach the sway bar end link, holding the shaft with an Allen key while torquing the nut.
    Torque spec

    Strut Tower Nuts50 Nm (37 lb-ft)

    Strut-to-Knuckle Bolts122 Nm (90 lb-ft)

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
13. 13

    Reattach ABS harness and brake hose bracket
    Reseat the wheel speed sensor harness clip and brake hose bracket into their captures on the strut body. Verify the harness has full suspension travel clearance and is not twisted.

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the front wheel and snug the lug nuts.
2. Lower the vehicle so the full weight rests on the wheels at normal ride height.
3. Final-torque the wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to 136 Nm (100 lb-ft).
4. If any control arm fasteners were loosened during the procedure, final-torque them now with the suspension loaded.
5. Reinstall any frunk trim panels removed for tower access.
6. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
7. Exit Service/Jack Mode via the touchscreen and allow the vehicle to re-initialize.

Verification

• Confirm no suspension warning, ABS, or stability control faults are displayed on the touchscreen after a key cycle.
• Bounce-test the corner: the vehicle should rebound once and settle, with no clunks or grinding from the strut tower.
• Turn the steering lock-to-lock with the vehicle stationary and listen at the strut tower — a smooth new bearing should produce no clicks, pops, or binding.
• Road test at low speed over uneven pavement and listen for clunks; then road test at highway speed and confirm no vibration or steering pull.
• MANDATORY: Perform a four-wheel alignment. Tesla Model 3 Performance camber and toe specs are tight, and ride quality/tire wear are very sensitive to alignment.
• Re-inspect the strut tower nut torque after the first 100 miles, as new mount rubber may settle slightly.
• While the wheels are off, this is a good opportunity to address Tesla's actual maintenance reality: confirm tire rotation interval (~6,250 mi), and check brake fluid age (Tesla recommends replacement every 2 years) and cabin filter age (every 2 years).

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