suspension
Subframe Bushing
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Expert
Time
4.0 h
Tools
14
Steps
13
Replacement of rear subframe (cradle) bushings on a 2024 Model 3 Performance AWD. The rear subframe carries the rear drive unit and HV-connected components, so this job requires partial subframe lowering with extreme caution around orange HV cabling.
Warnings
⚠️The rear subframe on a Model 3 Performance carries the rear drive unit, which is connected to the HV battery via ORANGE high-voltage cables. Do NOT cut, pinch, stretch, or pierce any orange cable. If the subframe must be lowered far enough to stress HV cabling, STOP — this job becomes HV-rated work.
⚠️Do not allow the rear drive unit to hang unsupported. The HV cable, coolant lines, and motor mounts are not designed to bear its weight.
⚠Model 3 uses a steel/aluminum hybrid body. Do not strike aluminum components with a steel hammer; use a dead-blow or brass drift.
⚠Subframe alignment affects rear toe/camber. Mark subframe-to-body position before removal and plan for a 4-wheel alignment after reassembly.
⚠Control arm bolts and several other suspension fasteners are torque-to-yield or torque-with-load — they MUST be final-torqued with the vehicle weight on the wheels (or on a suspension simulator), not while drooping.
ℹ️If you find the bushings only mildly worn but coolant or gear oil is weeping from nearby drive unit fittings, address those before reinstalling the subframe — access is far better with the cradle dropped.
Tools required
2-post or 4-post lift (vehicle weight ~4,050 lb)Essential
Transmission/powertrain support jackEssential
Secondary jack with subframe cradle adapterEssential
Hydraulic press or bushing removal/installation tool kitEssential
Torque wrench (20–150 Nm range)Essential
Torque wrench (extended range to 165+ Nm)Essential
Metric socket set (incl. deep sockets)Essential
Metric Allen/Torx bit setEssential
Breaker barEssential
Pry bar set
Paint marker / scribe (for alignment marking)Essential
Insulated (1000V-rated) gloves — for working near HV componentsEssential
Wheel chocksEssential
Penetrating oil
Parts
- Rear subframe bushings (manufacturer-specified set) × 4 — OEM Tesla Model 3 rear subframe bushing set — refer to Tesla Service Manual / EPC
- Subframe mounting bolts (single-use, if specified) × 4 — Replace per Tesla Service Manual if torque-to-yield
- Ball joint cotter pin (if ball joint is disturbed) × 2 — New cotter pin, OEM spec
Preparation
- TESLA SAFETY PREAMBLE: Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake, and chock the front wheels.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob carried well away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically a lithium unit — refer to architecture notes and the Tesla Service Manual for the exact location and disconnect sequence on your specific build.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Place the vehicle in Transport/Jack Mode via the touchscreen before lifting, to disable air suspension self-leveling logic and ride height changes (note: this 2024 Performance is coil-sprung, but Jack Mode also suppresses other automated checks).
- Loosen rear lug nuts while wheels are still on the ground.
- Raise the vehicle on a lift using Tesla-specified lift points (puck pads recommended to avoid crushing the rocker pinch welds).
- Remove rear wheels.
- Remove the rear underbody aero/diffuser panels to access the subframe perimeter.
- Visually locate and trace every orange HV cable, coolant line, and low-voltage harness routed across or through the rear subframe. Photograph routing for reference.
Procedure
- 1Inspect and document HV/coolant routingBefore disturbing anything, walk the rear of the vehicle and identify every orange HV cable connecting the rear drive unit to the HV battery, plus drive-unit coolant lines and the low-voltage motor harness. Confirm none must be disconnected to drop the subframe partially. If any orange cable would be stressed by the planned subframe drop, STOP — this becomes an HV-isolation job requiring Tesla Toolbox and certified personnel.⚠️If HV disconnection is required, do not proceed. Output of this procedure does not cover HV isolation.
- 2Mark subframe positionUsing a paint marker, mark the subframe-to-body position at all four mounting points. This preserves rear alignment as closely as possible during reinstallation, though a final alignment is still mandatory.
- 3Disconnect sway bar end linksDisconnect the rear sway bar end links from the lower control arms (or from the sway bar, per Service Manual access preference). Hold the link shaft with an Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent shaft spin.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 4Disconnect lower control arms / toe link from knuckleLoosen and remove the outboard control arm bolts (toe link, camber link, trailing arm as required for subframe drop) from the rear knuckles. Mark eccentric washer positions before disturbing. Do NOT final-torque any of these bolts during reassembly until the suspension is loaded.Torque specControl Arm Bolts165 Nm (122 lb-ft)
- 5Disconnect lower ball joint (if required for clearance)If the subframe drop requires it, separate the lower ball joint from the knuckle. Remove the cotter pin and castellated nut, then press the joint free with the manufacturer-specified separator. Discard the cotter pin — a new one is required on reassembly.⚠Do not strike the aluminum knuckle with a steel hammer. Use a ball joint press or brass drift.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)
- 6Support the rear drive unitPosition a powertrain support jack with a wide cradle directly under the rear drive unit, taking up its weight without lifting it off its mounts. The drive unit MUST remain supported during the entire subframe drop — its weight cannot hang on HV cables, coolant lines, or motor mounts.⚠️Failure to support the drive unit can pull on orange HV cabling and cause catastrophic damage or HV exposure.
- 7Support the subframePosition a second jack with a subframe cradle adapter under the rear subframe, taking up its weight evenly at the center. Confirm both jacks are stable before removing any subframe bolts.
- 8Remove subframe-to-body boltsRemove the four subframe-to-body bolts. Lower the subframe slowly — no more than is required to access the bushings. Continuously monitor every orange cable, coolant line, and harness for tension or pinching. If anything binds, raise the subframe and reassess.⚠️Stop immediately if any orange HV cable becomes taut, kinked, or pinched.
- 9Remove old bushingsWith the subframe partially lowered (or fully removed if HV routing safely permits and the drive unit is independently supported), press out the worn bushings using a hydraulic press or in-situ bushing removal tool kit. Note the orientation of each bushing before removal — many subframe bushings are directional and indexed.
- 10Install new bushingsPress in the new bushings to the manufacturer-specified depth and orientation. Use only the appropriate driver against the outer shell — never press on the inner sleeve or rubber. Confirm seating is even and flush per the Tesla Service Manual.
- 11Reposition subframe to bodySlowly raise the subframe back to the body, aligning to the marks made in Step 2. Hand-start all four subframe bolts before torquing any. Use new bolts if specified by the Tesla Service Manual.
- 12Torque subframe mounting boltsTorque the subframe mounting bolts to OEM specification — refer to Tesla Service Manual. Do not assume the generic 'Mounting Bolts' value applies to structural subframe bolts; subframe bolts are typically much higher torque and may be torque-to-yield or torque-plus-angle.
- 13Reconnect ball joint and suspension links (snug only)Reconnect the lower ball joint with a new cotter pin and torque the ball joint nut. Reinstall control arm and toe link bolts at the knuckle but only snug them — final torque happens with the wheels loaded. Reconnect the sway bar end links.Torque specBall Joint Nut88 Nm (65 lb-ft)Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall rear wheels and torque lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
- Lower the vehicle so the suspension is fully loaded at normal ride height (or use ramps / a drive-on alignment rack).
- With weight on the wheels, final-torque all rear control arm bolts to specification. This is critical — torquing while drooping pre-loads the bushings and causes premature failure.
- Reinstall the rear underbody aero/diffuser panels.
- Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery.
- Power up the vehicle, exit Jack/Transport Mode, and confirm no error messages on the touchscreen.
- Take the vehicle for a 4-wheel alignment immediately — rear toe and camber will be out of spec until aligned.
Verification
- Confirm no suspension, ABS, traction control, or HV system warnings on the touchscreen.
- Visually re-inspect all orange HV cabling for chafing, kinks, or contact with the subframe — any contact is unacceptable and must be re-routed.
- Verify torque marks (paint stripe) on all critical fasteners: ball joint nut, control arm bolts, subframe bolts, sway bar links, and lug nuts.
- Road test at low speed first, listening for clunks or knocks from the rear cradle area; then at highway speed check for tracking, vibration, or steering pull.
- Confirm completion of 4-wheel alignment with a printed before/after sheet on file.
- Note: while the subframe is dropped is also the easiest time to inspect rear drive unit gear oil condition. Tesla's revised guidance recommends rear drive unit gear oil service around 12,500 mi initial and every 25,000–50,000 mi thereafter — log mileage and consider scheduling that service if due.