Replace the front sway bar (anti-roll bar) bushings on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. The bushings sit in two brackets clamping the bar to the front subframe; access is from underneath with the front of the vehicle safely raised.

Warnings

Tools required

Parts

• Front sway bar bushing (split/clamshell type, sized to OEM bar diameter) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified front stabilizer bar bushing for 2024 Model 3 Performance
• Sway bar bracket bolts (reuse if not damaged; replace if corroded or stretched) × 2 — OEM specification

Preparation

1. Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
2. Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
3. Disconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. On the 2024 Model 3, the 12V is typically accessed behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024 builds use a lithium 12V located under the floor — confirm location before opening trim.
4. DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
5. If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
6. Place wheel chocks behind the rear wheels.
7. Put the vehicle in Jack Mode via the touchscreen (Service > Jack Mode) to disable air-related leveling features (not applicable on coil M3, but Jack Mode also prevents drive-away faults).
8. Loosen front wheel lug nuts while tires are on the ground.
9. Raise the front of the vehicle at the manufacturer-designated lift points and support on jack stands. Confirm stability before going underneath.
10. Remove both front wheels to gain bracket access (recommended for torque wrench clearance).

Procedure

1. 1

   Inspect existing sway bar and bushings
   Visually inspect the front sway bar, bushings, brackets, and end links. Note bushing orientation and any shims or isolators present so the new bushings are installed identically. Photograph for reference.
2. 2

   Remove front aero/belly pan as needed
   Remove the forward section of the underbody aero panel to expose the sway bar bracket bolts on the subframe. Use the correct trim/torx fasteners — do not over-pry plastic clips.
   ⚠Underbody panels also act as battery shielding and aero. Reinstall every fastener — missing clips cause panel droop at highway speed.
3. 3

   Support the sway bar
   Place a transmission jack or a sturdy support under the center of the sway bar to control it once the brackets are released. The bar will drop slightly when both brackets are loose.
4. 4

   Disconnect sway bar end links (if needed for clearance)
   If bushing access requires it, disconnect the lower end of each sway bar end link from the sway bar. Hold the end link shaft with a hex/Allen key while loosening the nut to prevent the ball stud from spinning. Many bushing replacements can be done with end links connected — only disconnect if necessary.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
5. 5

   Remove sway bar bracket bolts
   Loosen and remove the two bolts on each sway bar bracket securing it to the subframe. Support the bar as the second bracket comes free. Set bolts aside in order; inspect for corrosion or thread damage.
6. 6

   Slide brackets and old bushings off
   Slide each bracket and old bushing off the bar, or open the split bushings if they are clamshell style. Note which side faces forward.
7. 7

   Clean sway bar contact surface
   Clean the bar at the bushing contact zones with a clean rag. Inspect for wear grooves, rust, or coating damage. A heavily worn bar should be replaced — bushings will not seal properly on a grooved bar.
8. 8

   Install new bushings
   Install the new bushings onto the bar in the same orientation as removed (slit typically faces away from the bracket clamp face, per manufacturer specification). Apply rubber-safe silicone lube or soapy water sparingly to the inner bore if specified by the bushing manufacturer. Do NOT use petroleum-based grease.
   ⚠Incorrect bushing orientation will cause squeak and premature failure.
9. 9

   Reinstall brackets to subframe
   Position each bracket over its bushing and start both bolts by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum/steel subframe threads. Snug both bolts evenly, then torque to specification.
   Torque spec

   Sway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
10. 10

    Reconnect end links (if disconnected)
    Reattach each end link to the sway bar. Hold the ball stud shaft with a hex/Allen key and torque the nut to specification.
    Torque spec

    Sway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)

Reassembly

1. Reinstall the underbody aero/belly panel with all original fasteners and clips.
2. Reinstall front wheels. Snug lug nuts in a star pattern.
3. Lower the vehicle to the ground.
4. Final-torque the lug nuts in a star pattern to specification.
5. Reconnect the 12V low-voltage battery. Close access panel/trim.
6. Sit in the driver's seat with the fob, wake the vehicle, and exit Jack Mode if it remained active.
7. Re-enable Sentry Mode and any other features disabled before service.

Verification

• With wheels on the ground, visually confirm the sway bar is centered and both brackets sit flush against the subframe with no gaps.
• Bounce-test the front of the vehicle and listen for clunks or squeaks from the bushing area.
• Test drive at low speed over expansion joints and a tight turn in both directions — there should be no clunk, rattle, or rubber squeak.
• Check the dash for any suspension/ABS/stability faults. The Model 3 will display chassis warnings on the touchscreen if a related sensor is disturbed.
• Re-check sway bar bracket bolt torque after the first 100–200 miles — rubber bushings can compress slightly and re-seat.
• While under the vehicle, this is a good time to inspect front control arm bushings, ball joints, and end link boots for wear.
• Note: Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years and cabin air filter every 2 years — if either is due, schedule them since the vehicle is already being serviced.

More procedures for this vehicle