suspension
Sway Bar Bushing - Rear
for 2024 Tesla Model 3 Performance Dual Motor AWD · AWD
Difficulty
Moderate
Time
30 min
Tools
10
Steps
8
Replace the rear sway bar (stabilizer bar) bushings on a 2024 Model 3 Performance. The bushings are retained by two brackets bolted to the rear subframe; the bar does not need full removal, only enough drop to slide bushings off.
Warnings
⚠️Do NOT touch, cut, or pierce any orange high-voltage cable. The HV battery pack runs the full length of the floor pan directly above your work area.
⚠Use only Tesla-approved lift points. Lifting on the battery pack, pinch welds, or subframe will damage the pack enclosure or body and may compromise HV pack integrity.
⚠Model 3 uses a stamped steel + aluminum hybrid body. Do not strike suspension or body components with a steel hammer — use a dead-blow or rubber mallet only.
ℹ️Sway bar bracket bolts thread into the rear subframe. Do not over-torque or cross-thread; damaged threads here are an expensive repair.
Tools required
Floor jack (low-profile, rated for EV weight)Essential
Jack stands rated for EV curb weight (4,000+ lb)Essential
Tesla-approved lift pucks (puck adapters for jack/lift points)Essential
Torque wrench (10–150 Nm range)Essential
Metric socket set (including deep sockets)Essential
Metric hex/Allen key set (for sway bar end link shaft hold)Essential
Breaker bar
Pry bar
Silicone-safe rubber lubricant or soapy water
Insulated gloves and eye protection
Parts
- Rear sway bar bushings (pair, sized to OEM bar diameter) × 2 — Manufacturer-specified rear stabilizer bar bushing for 2024 Model 3 Performance
Preparation
- Park on level ground, place in P, engage parking brake.
- Exit ALL doors with the key fob away from the vehicle. Wait at least 2 minutes for HV systems to fully de-energize, even on this non-HV job.
- Disconnect the 12V (or Li-ion low-voltage) battery. On 2024 Model 3, the low-voltage battery is typically accessible behind the right rear seat back panel; some 2024 builds use a lithium unit under the floor — refer to current Tesla service documentation to confirm location before disconnecting.
- DO NOT touch, cut, or pierce ANY orange cable — these are high-voltage and lethal.
- If at any point you encounter an orange cable, an HV component, or are unsure if a system is de-energized: STOP and consult a Tesla-certified technician.
- Loosen rear wheel lug nuts while the vehicle is on the ground.
- Raise the rear of the vehicle using only Tesla-specified lift points and support securely on jack stands rated for the vehicle's curb weight.
- Remove both rear wheels to gain access to the sway bar end links and brackets.
- Inspect the area: identify the rear sway bar, the two U-shaped brackets retaining the bushings, and the end links connecting the bar to the suspension. Confirm no orange HV cables, HV connectors, or coolant lines are routed through your work zone before proceeding.
Procedure
- 1Support the rear sway barPlace a jack or stand loosely under the center of the rear sway bar to support its weight once the brackets are released. Do not lift on the bar — only support it.
- 2Disconnect rear sway bar end links (one or both sides)To allow the bar to drop enough to slide the bushings off, disconnect at least one end link from the sway bar. Hold the end link stud with an Allen/hex key on the internal hold feature and back off the nut. If both bushings are being replaced, disconnecting both end links makes the job easier.⚠End link studs spin freely if not held with the hex key — using an impact without holding the shaft will damage the boot and ball stud.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
- 3Remove sway bar bracket boltsLocate the two bracket bolts securing each sway bar bushing bracket to the rear subframe. Remove both bolts from the first bracket, then the second. Support the bar as the second bracket releases — it will drop free.⚠These bolts thread into the subframe. Inspect threads on removal; if any bolt feels gritty or galls, stop and clean threads before reinstalling.
- 4Lower the sway bar and remove old bushingsLower the sway bar enough to expose the bushing locations. Slide the brackets off the bushings, then split or slide each old bushing off the bar. Note the orientation of the bushing slit (typically faces forward or upward per OEM design) before removing — install the new bushings in the same orientation.
- 5Clean and inspectWipe the bar at the bushing seating areas clean. Inspect for corrosion pitting, cracks, or wear grooves. Inspect bracket condition and subframe threads. If the bar is heavily corroded at the bushing surface, address before installing new bushings.
- 6Install new bushingsApply silicone-safe rubber-friendly lubricant or soapy water (NEVER petroleum grease) to the inner surface of the new bushings. Install bushings on the bar with the slit oriented per OEM original orientation. Slide the brackets over the bushings.⚠Petroleum-based grease will swell and destroy rubber/polyurethane bushings. Use only rubber-safe lubricant.
- 7Reattach brackets to subframeLift the sway bar back into position and start both bracket bolts by hand on each bracket to avoid cross-threading. Snug all four bolts evenly, then torque to specification.Torque specSway Bar Bracket Bolts47 Nm (35 lb-ft)
- 8Reconnect sway bar end linksReinstall any disconnected end link nut(s). Hold the stud with the hex key while torquing the nut to specification.Torque specSway Bar Link61 Nm (45 lb-ft)
Reassembly
- Reinstall both rear wheels and hand-thread lug nuts.
- Lower the vehicle to the ground.
- Torque rear wheel lug nuts in a star pattern to specification (see Wheel Lug Nuts torque).
- Reconnect the 12V/low-voltage battery.
- Close any service panels disturbed during 12V disconnection.
- Power on the vehicle and allow systems to fully boot. Some Tesla driver-assist features may require a short calibration drive after a 12V disconnect.
Verification
- With the vehicle on the ground, push down on the rear of the vehicle and listen for clunks — a properly bushed sway bar will be silent.
- Test drive over a known speed bump or rough surface and listen for any rattles or knocks from the rear suspension.
- Take a moderate cornering test at low speed; rear should feel planted with no clunking on quick lateral transitions.
- After 50–100 miles, re-inspect the bracket bolts for proper torque retention — the bushing rubber will settle slightly.
- Visually confirm bushings are seated flush in their brackets and the slit (if present) has not migrated.
- Note: while underneath, this is a good time to inspect rear brake pad thickness and verify your Tesla's brake fluid service interval — Tesla recommends brake fluid replacement every 2 years regardless of mileage.